Builds Moonshine - A Build Thread (10 Viewers)

[bluehawk]

Johnny, when you did your SOA, did you use Ford F-150 shock mounts? Think that I read that in your thread somewhere. Got my Ruff Stuff SOA kit yesterday. Now just gotta get the new to me frame cleaned up and painted. Change over the body and axles, and replace both rear 1/4 panels. Know where to pick up some rust free 1/4's at? Thanks, Ryan

 

[snowboardonsnow]

Good work my friend! that is a beautiful engine you got there.

Johnny, when you did your SOA, did you use Ford F-150 shock mounts? Think that I read that in your thread somewhere. Got my Ruff Stuff SOA kit yesterday. Now just gotta get the new to me frame cleaned up and painted. Change over the body and axles, and replace both rear 1/4 panels. Know where to pick up some rust free 1/4's at? Thanks, Ryan

I got some ford shock towers if you need them, made myself some shock hoops instead.
Also, here are some good 1/4s I am surprised no one has grabbed. haven't seen them in person.
http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/cto/3340789447.html

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Johnny, when you did your SOA, did you use Ford F-150 shock mounts? Think that I read that in your thread somewhere. Got my Ruff Stuff SOA kit yesterday. Now just gotta get the new to me frame cleaned up and painted. Change over the body and axles, and replace both rear 1/4 panels. Know where to pick up some rust free 1/4's at? Thanks, Ryan

I used F350 shock towers, yes. I've got the part number for them back somewhere in this thread. I can pull it up if you need it.

Unfortunately I am fresh out of rust free donor 60 bodies! I'll keep my eyes open, but I can't promise anything.

Good luck on the next round of work with your truck! It's always good to see progress.

Good work my friend! that is a beautiful engine you got there.

Thank you sir! Should be able to get more done this weekend.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Ordered the parts from PSC to finish up my hydroboost. Should be here next week.

 

[Tapage]

Going to figure out what fittings I need and then place an order with PSC for the HB fittings.

Did you know which size are .. ? mines were

http://www.pscmotorsports.com/16mm-x-6-jic-adapter.html

http://www.pscmotorsports.com/18mm-x-6-jic-adapter.htm

Whohoo, more spending

let's the fun keep coming .. !

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Did you know which size are .. ? mines were

http://www.pscmotorsports.com/16mm-x-6-jic-adapter.html

http://www.pscmotorsports.com/18mm-x-6-jic-adapter.htm

let's the fun keep coming .. !

Yes sir, those are the exact fittings I need as well. I had a 18mm o-ring adapter left over from when I did the -6 fitting conversion for my PS high pressure line, which I found last night. It fits perfectly in the high pressure return. I also had 3' of the field serviceable HP line and a 90* -6 fitting.

As a result, I ordered one more 90* fitting and a 16mm to -6 AN adapter and that should be everything I need!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Got some work done on the motor this weekend.

Flipped it over to check the connecting rod torque. All but 3 were within spec. Those three took 5#:

Partially disassembled the HX30w, found this grease inside. Anyone know what this grease is?

Drilled and tapped a hole in the exhaust manifold for a pyrometer ( 1/8" NPT ), then wire-wheeled it to remove the rust:

Primed both with VHT, then painted black, then clear coated them. Two coats each step. All three coatings were from VHT:

Put a new front main seal in the timing cover, cleaned it up a bit then put it on with a new gasket. Set the valve lash then put the injectors, lines, valve covers and intake plate on:

I then took the brackets off of the HB unit and found that it will be nearly impossible to take the back nut off. How do you guys remove this thing?

 

[StevoJonesFJ60]

I remember I couldn't get a good grip on the nut and ended up using a hammer and chisel to get it off while I held it in a vise.

 

[boots4]

That bracket doesn't work on the Landcruiser anyways so just cut off an ear to get some vice grips on it and ref away.

 

[ambulancechser]

left you a reply over on 4btswaps...there are two styles of nut...one early one thats staked in place,and the later one with a snap ring.the staked one usually needs to be cut.

boots has a good idea...if you don't need the bracket,chop that sucker and pipe wrench it.i remember using a piece of square tube (like a tow/reciever hitch sort of square) to match the crazy square nut,then using a pipe wrench on that...tube fits over the pushrod.

those nuts are really on there...takes some effort.

 

[Wyoming]

Johnny, that VHT covers nice doesn't it. Let is sit for a long time as it seems to rub off a bit when dry. Although, I didn't clear-coat it.

Everything is looking good.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I remember I couldn't get a good grip on the nut and ended up using a hammer and chisel to get it off while I held it in a vise.

Based on the looks of the nut, I think the PO did the same thing to get it on. I gave it a couple good raps with a 4lb sledge and it didn't budge.

That bracket doesn't work on the Landcruiser anyways so just cut off an ear to get some vice grips on it and ref away.

Winner, winner, chicken dinner. Don't know why I didn't think of this before. I'll chop it up this week.

left you a reply over on 4btswaps...there are two styles of nut...one early one thats staked in place,and the later one with a snap ring.the staked one usually needs to be cut.

boots has a good idea...if you don't need the bracket,chop that sucker and pipe wrench it.i remember using a piece of square tube (like a tow/reciever hitch sort of square) to match the crazy square nut,then using a pipe wrench on that...tube fits over the pushrod.

those nuts are really on there...takes some effort.

Thank you! I'll have to double-check to ensure that the HB doesn't have a snap ring.

I'll try what Mike suggested, cut the bracket and then use a pipe wrench. Shouldn't be too difficult to separate if I can get a good grip on it.

Johnny, that VHT covers nice doesn't it. Let is sit for a long time as it seems to rub off a bit when dry. Although, I didn't clear-coat it.

Everything is looking good.

VHT does cover real nice! With the clear coat, it seemed to be pretty solid after letting sit for an hour and a half, but I haven't had a chance to cure the paint yet. The curing procedure is 3 hours long ( in the oven ) but I'm afraid to use my kitchen's oven. I'm going to see if I can use a friend's powdercoating oven for this later this week.

Thank you sir!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Well gents, the motor build is finished. She's all buttoned up and painted. I need to get some new exhaust manifold bolts from fastenal this week, but I'm not planning on installing the manifold until the motor is in the truck.

My boost and pyro gauges came in, so I got those mounted in the pod.

After installing the rest of the fuel system, I went through 4 cans of engine degreaser and 6 of brake cleaner. Got it clean enough to paint:

I then test fitted the HX30w and exhaust manifold on the motor, so I could set the turbo clocking and get a feel for what it would look like. It looks good

By cutting up the bracket, I was able to get the big square nut off of the HB unit:

Then tapped the shaft with a M10x1.25 die.

That's it for this weekend. Next weekend will bring more progress

 

[ambulancechser]

awesome!

i see some interesting brackets and such under your pipe wrench...and why the re-tap on the pushrod?

cheers

 

[Landcruisin'60]

Looks sweet!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

awesome!

i see some interesting brackets and such under your pipe wrench...and why the re-tap on the pushrod?

cheers

Thank you!

Brackets under the pipe wrench are misc. stuff for the FZJ80 rear axle install. Shock brackets are on top in the picture.

Pushrod was threaded so I can thread on a clevis for mounting to my stock brake pedal. Boots showed us this method on his Family Haulin' build a couple of years ago.

Looks sweet!

Thank you!

 

[Wyoming]

Wow, Johnny, the engine is looking sweet! Nice job cleaning and painting.

Have you gotten the cobra-head intake for the turbo that Dave told me about for my build? And, Perma-Cool has the remote filter adapter. You should be able to use the Oil filter in that position with the cobra-head intake for the turbo. However, I don't know how you would get the oil filter on without spilling all the oil out of it, and vice-versa. Go with the remote oil filter and I think you will have less hassle in the future.

 

[The Phoenician]

Wyoming,
I was thinking the same thing about the oil filter. I have the same one Johnny has. We'll see how it does when I get back.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Wow, Johnny, the engine is looking sweet! Nice job cleaning and painting.

Have you gotten the cobra-head intake for the turbo that Dave told me about for my build? And, Perma-Cool has the remote filter adapter. You should be able to use the Oil filter in that position with the cobra-head intake for the turbo. However, I don't know how you would get the oil filter on without spilling all the oil out of it, and vice-versa. Go with the remote oil filter and I think you will have less hassle in the future.

Thank you sir!

I thought about getting the cobra head, but I don't think I'll need it. This turbo is in the same position as the stock H1C, so the stock intake elbow should fit no problem. I'm gonna try to get new exhaust manifold bolts today so I'll mount the turbo and test the intake elbow as soon as I get the bolts.

As for the oil filter location, it's a bit of a PITA where it is now, but there it will stay till the motor is in the truck. I want to get the motor installed and running, then I'll go back and do add-on stuff like higher quality fuel filters and a remote oil filter mount.

 

[davegonz]

Looking good Johnny! How does the compressor housing on the HX30w compare to the stock H1C? It looks a little on the small side from your pics.