Builds 1981 Pickup build up (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Nov 14, 2006
Threads
75
Messages
1,219
Location
VT
Website
www.facebook.com
Well I sold my 60 a few weeks back. I poked around trying to buy an FJ40 to build, but after having a few fall through and wondering whether I really wanted to wheel an open vehicle. I stumbled on this 81 that had been on C-list for a while. Basics are: 2 hockey puck body lift, looks like some sort of lift springs, at least in the back, later model axles with gussets (original axles came with it) G52 trans, dual cases and weber carb.

Overall its pretty solid, after all it is 32 years old and this is the north east. It'll need some attention to the body mounts under the footwells and one small spot on the frame. Other than that it has the usual backwoods engineering one might expect from a vehicle thats had too many owners. Which brings me to my current questions.

Like I said earlier it has a Weber carb, the installation of it leaves me with questions. Its been desmogged and has an electric Carter fuel pump. When I bought it the guy had it sucking fuel from a soda bottle because he wasnt sure what shape the fuel in the tank was in. So I pumped out the tank, dumped in 5 gallons of fresh fuel and tried to start it. It would pop and sputter but not run. That was yesterday, it got colder and darker so I gave up for the day. Today I grabbed some fuel line and a new filter. I blew out the hardline, installed new soft line and a new filter with the same result. It would pop and try to fire but it wasnt happy. So I did some more investigating, found some vacuum caps that were dry rotted and replaced them. Same story. So I started poking around with the carb. The choke isnt hooked up. There's no choke knob in the cab. Should there be? There is linkage on the carb, but no evidence of there ever being a cable hooked to it. I wrapped some string around the linkage so I could actuate the choke from the cab while I tried to start it. But again I was fighting the darkness and windchill. So thats where I gave up again today.

So that leaves me with a decision to make. I'd like to get the 22R running so I can putt around in the mean time. But I have a parts truck with a good running RE. So I'm contemplating an RE swap and tossing on the IFS outers and rear axle at the same time. Plans for the truck are RUF, linked rear, lockers, 37s, hydro assist and a low profile exo.

Anyway those are my ramblings for now. Here are a bunch of pictures. I'm new to these mini trucks, so if you see something in the pictures that looks obviously out of place let me know. I need to rewire the fuel pump, get a breather for the valve cover, make a better air rail block off plate among other things. Or just swap in the RE, see the dilemma?


photo-111.jpg

photo-112.jpg

photo-114.jpg

photo-115.jpg

photo-116.jpg

photo-117.jpg

photo-118.jpg

photo-119.jpg

photo-120.jpg

photo-121.jpg
 
Just go for the swap. RE, ifs rear, the works.
That's what I would do.
 
I did an RE swap in my '80 and I LOVE it. Well worth the effort, which really isn't much. It's basically all bolt in and minimal wiring.

Sent from another Galaxy
 
That engine looks like a hacked up mess to me. Later valve cover, busted sensors, and at least one important hose is missing. Just swap in the 22RE, assuming you have everything and it's running well. You will need a different fuel pump, the EFI wants ~70psi.
 
If it has a later model valve cover I wonder if it has a later model head too. I'll have to look and see tomorrow. The only downside is the RE has 200k. This engine was supposedly recently rebuilt. If I could toss the EFI parts on this engine that may be the best bet. I'm probably going to end up with a cell because I plan to back half it and run a 4link.


EDIT:

Correct me if I'm wrong but in this picture you can see the threaded holes the EFI manifold would use? So it is a later head and my EFI parts would bolt right to it?

photo-121.jpg
 
Last edited:
I may be wrong, but I don't think you can put a later head on an early 22R. The earlier engine uses domed pistons. So, if that is a later head, then it's likely the entire engine has been swapped, just not the intake.

Measure the deck height of the block, if you can. You can do it with a tape measure. The early (pre-85) blocks are 11.280" ("tall" block), but in '85+ the block height is reduced to 11.090", a difference of almost 1/4".

Pop off the valve cover and look at the timing chain. The original '81 22R had a double-row chain.

That dipstick is also from a later engine.
 
If it has a later model valve cover I wonder if it has a later model head too. I'll have to look and see tomorrow. The only downside is the RE has 200k. This engine was supposedly recently rebuilt. If I could toss the EFI parts on this engine that may be the best bet. I'm probably going to end up with a cell because I plan to back half it and run a 4link.

EDIT:

Correct me if I'm wrong but in this picture you can see the threaded holes the EFI manifold would use? So it is a later head and my EFI parts would bolt right to it?

Way easier just to swap the whole thing. Even though they used the R series engines in everything and for a long time, there are a TON of differences. You'll spend a lot more time trying to frankenstein it together than its worth. I'd just slap a timing chain on the RE and take care of any leaks while it's out and just roll with it.

Edit: My RE had like 230k on it. All I replaced was put a rear main seal and a fuel filter. Its just much easier to do both of those with the engine out.

Sent from another Galaxy
 
Hmm you really think it's that much easier? If the 22R really has been rebuilt I feel like it may be worth the extra bit of effort. I know the RE has 200k and a timing chain rattle. But I also know it runs well and has about the power I would expect from it. So its probably six of one half a dozen of the other.

If I swap complete engines I'd probably end up replacing the clutch, water pump, etc etc because thats who I am. But if I just swap EFI components I wont have it all apart so I wont be so inclined to replace all sorts of parts. I have to keep reminding myself its only a trailer queen, it doesnt need to be perfect :doh:
 
Swap the RE in. Don't try to change this w/ that. It'll drive you crazier then just swaping the entire engine. Change gaskets, water pump, oil pump, timing chain, and clutch. Install it and start wheeling it.
 
Got it running today and drove it around. Runs pretty good but I'm definitely going to swap the RE in for the offroad drivability. The truck definitely needs some loving, it doesnt flex at all. Going to finish getting my shop in shape, do a couple jobs that have lined up and then I'll bring this in and get to work on it. Going to pop the cab off to clean up some rust on both the cab and frame. RUF, 63s or links out back, regear, highsteer, longs, some armor etc etc. Oh I also have to find a low profile seat so I fit in the cab. I'm 6'4"...its tight.

Should be a fun build. As always its going to cost more than I planned on spending.
 
Got it running today and drove it around. Runs pretty good but I'm definitely going to swap the RE in for the offroad drivability. The truck definitely needs some loving, it doesnt flex at all. Going to finish getting my shop in shape, do a couple jobs that have lined up and then I'll bring this in and get to work on it. Going to pop the cab off to clean up some rust on both the cab and frame. RUF, 63s or links out back, regear, highsteer, longs, some armor etc etc. Oh I also have to find a low profile seat so I fit in the cab. I'm 6'4"...its tight.

Should be a fun build. As always its going to cost more than I planned on spending.

You should look at the newer Tacoma springs. They're 53" and super flexy. I'm trying to start a trend. :D

Sent from another Galaxy
 
Hmm that may be an option. Do you have anymore info about that? What years to look for? Spring width? The great thing about the 63s is I can go to my local junkyard and walk away with a pair for $75.
 
Hmm that may be an option. Do you have anymore info about that? What years to look for? Spring width? The great thing about the 63s is I can go to my local junkyard and walk away with a pair for $75.

Yep. They are the same width as your stock springs. They're 53" from eye to eye. I bought everything to mount them for less than 150 bucks. I didn't have to buy the actual springs though. They come from any 4WD or Prerunner Tacoma 05 and newer. There are actually many different springs but any should work.

Check my build thread for more details.

Sent from another Galaxy
 
Well I was finally able to put a couple hours into this today. I pulled off the bed to gain access to the top of the tank. I pulled the sending unit out of the tank and boy was it gnarly. I should have taken a picture. The outside of the pickup and return pipes were covered in rust scale. I shined a flashlight into the tank and could see rust and junk in the bottom of the tank. So I decided to pop the skid plate off and drain the tank. Well I popped the skid plate off and the tank started leaking. It appears someone fashioned a patch for the bottom of the gas tank out of fiberglass matt. Evidently the skid plate was holding the patch in place and wasnt leaking. But as soon as I took it off the fiberglass released from the tank and there was a steady flow of fuel. So I popped the tank out, put the skid plate back in. Sat a 2 gallon gas can onto the skid plate and strapped it down. Stuck the fuel line into the tank and voila I was able to drive my truck around for quite a while in the woods. It runs great, it loads up a bit with fuel if it idles for an extended period. I'm guessing that has to do with there not being a FPR between the pump and the carb.

Anyway, test drive went well. Low low is sweet. The flex is less than sweet though. So next order of business is going to be throwing the 63s out back and RUF.

Stay tuned...
 
If it's anyhing like my old suspension it was literally hard as a rock. The rears flexed slightly but the fronts were basically solid. I believe someone had added a leaf or 2 over the years as well. I wheeled mine a few times with the front like that and it was not fun. We jokingly nicknamed my truck the chiropractor because it would rearrange your spine every time you drove it. Anyway, the rears up front seem pretty awesome so far. I just finished up mine with the hi steer and Taco's on the rear. Still gotta get some rear shocks and possibly add a leaf to the back. Good luck with the RE swap and the suspension. I'll be staying tuned. :popcorn:
 
Yeah I've been keeping an eye on your build. Its turning out great! I actually sold my RE truck to my brother, so that will cover the cost of the propane kit for the R. I still have to figure out how I'm going to fit me (6'4") and a suspension seat in the cab.
 
Yeah I've been keeping an eye on your build. Its turning out great! I actually sold my RE truck to my brother, so that will cover the cost of the propane kit for the R. I still have to figure out how I'm going to fit me (6'4") and a suspension seat in the cab.

Thanks. It's nice to be able to drive it. Feels like I'm finally getting something accomplished. I considered the propane on mine but since the opportunity came up for the RE I jumped on it. I probably wouldn't have wanted to do the propane on the 20R anyway. That thing was ridiculously underpowered. It had recently been rebuilt as well but just not enough. And having one of these trucks carbed off road is not fun. Mine died on me so many times I was ready to just leave it in the middle of the trail. :mad:

The propane is becoming a lot more popular these days. They just did 2 propane swaps on 40s at ACC. Hopefully that will keep the costs going down.
 
I pulled the truck into the shop today and did a little work on it. Started scoping out the 63s, which is when I found out the rear frame on the drivers side is rotten. I also removed the bench seat and carpet and found a surprise.

Frame, plan is to cut the factory frame off just behind the gas tank crossmember and build my own frame from 2x4 rectangular tubing.
photo-124_zps4d41a6dc.jpg



Surprise!
photo-122_zpsc6770c08.jpg


Here's my fuel cell, I think it'll pass tech.
photo-123_zps1ff206f5.jpg


And last but not least I figured out how to fit in my truck. Needs a little refinement, but I think with the addition of some foam padding and harness it should be good to go!
photo-125_zpsd7d37054.jpg
 
Put in a little time on it today. I hit a roadblock when I realized I hadnt finished bringing all the tools I needed to my new shop. So basically all I did was unbolt the suspension and cut off the back of the frame. Tomorrow I hope to rebuild the back section of the frame and get the 63s in.

photo-139_zps30f4d536.jpg

photo-140_zpsc5cfba78.jpg
 
I succeeded in my goal to get everything tacked together tonight. So tomorrow I just have to burn it all in and make some fish plates for the frame. Shouldnt be too bad. I also need to pull the rear axle from the parts truck and put that in, but there's no huge rush. I'm hoping I guessed right and once the cage, propane tank and spare are sitting in it the shackle angle works out ok. I think it will.

Everything removed...
photo-147_zps27eabdb3.jpg

photo-146_zps5d816423.jpg


Quite the size difference
photo-145_zpsfad4a3c6.jpg


photo-144_zps1c7806e9.jpg

photo-143_zps77e9cb6e.jpg

photo-142_zps4ff55448.jpg

photo-141_zpsbf632089.jpg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom