Builds Moonshine - A Build Thread (19 Viewers)

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So what's interesting is that the filter housing you are using is rated for 357CFM @ 10"H2O. Based on my reading, the 4BT needs at 500CFM. Based on your filter setup (that obviously works well) I could move to a filter that runs ~250cfm and be just fine. That means that this housing and donaldson P181059 will work just fine, and be the size I need. The question is, will the smaller lower CFM really pose a problem :hmm:


Ump 4 Inch Super Air Filter 8 Inch Extra Long Canister For 250Hp - 300Hp Engine R2C Cleanable Filter
Mine I know doesn't have a big 5" inlet. I have a square cut out of the side because the inlet connected to the snorkel doesn't pull in enough air. Once I invent/import a 4" snorkel contraption I will enlarge the inlet and seal up the side of the housing.
 
Which R2C filter are you running?

I've run their conical filters. Yellow media is offroad, White media is trail/street, Black media is street/strip.

First was white media CO10517 with my single turbo and it did well. Next was a smaller yellow media that restricted pretty quick on my twins and I've since tossed this. Currently is white media CO10525 and it's starting to restrict for my twins, this is the biggest one I could get to fit in my filter spot, I need to clean it but I just ordered a black media CO10537. I plan to use the black for the street and highway and then changed back to my current white once I hit the trails.

Sizes for the conicals can be found here, just scroll down: Black Hex Series Conical Filters
 
Gotcha. I've had the most problems with conical filters, which is why I want to move to something larger.

Do you notice the performance loss as your indicator of air filter restriction or do you have a restriction gauge?
 
Performance loss, particularly max boost. Boost not reaching what it used to. Tested by doing a run up the street with the filter on and a run up the street without the filter. I used to have a restriction gauge but it failed and I never replaced it.
 
Since I can't do one thing at a time, I've got some new tires to put on Moonshine. Got a smoking deal.

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To make sure my tires wear correctly, I took moonshine in to have her aligned, since the driver's front tire outside shoulder wears faster than any other part of any other tire. Figuring I was overdue for a knuckle rebuild, I thought the alignment shop would quickly assess and tell me what was wrong. Apparently the only thing wrong is that I have too much toe-in and due to how I made the tie rod, it can't be adjusted in. No worries, I will just shorten it!

What does the mud collective think of my alignment numbers? The way I read it, I've got ~0* camber, ~5* of caster and too much toe-in, but everything else is good:

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Sweet. you should be good to go after adjusting the toe then.
Tire wear could be something else, tho not likely. A neighbor who runs a shop did correct a dudes complaint about tires still wearing uneven after tons of work on the front end. Turned out replacing bad front shock(s) fixed the problem. He also went from weight to sand balancing, not sure if that had anything to do with it.
 
The type of uneven wear can, to an extent, show you what's wrong. In my case, the only issue is that my DS front outer shoulder is wearing faster than everything else. I suspected an alignment issue because there's limited cupping (I do need new shocks) and no other uneven wear. If the bearings/knuckles were in bad shape, I'd have more wear on the inside, not the outside.
 
I wear the heck out of the out side of my passenger front tire on my work truck. It's becouse I'm always making slow speed tight left turns and U turns.
 
I wear the heck out of the out side of my passenger front tire on my work truck. It's becouse I'm always making slow speed tight left turns and U turns.

Sure, but that's absolutely a corner scenario. I don't make all right turns in my truck :)
 
Had a no-start with Moonshine yesterday morning. She would crank, just too slow to fire, like the battery was low (but it wasn't). I knew that my battery cable situation was dismal so I used the no-start as an excuse to finally re-do my main battery cables and wire in my second battery.

Since the starter is on the DS of the cummins, I changed my original setup up to make the wiring cleaner. I ran the main power cable from the starter to the DS battery, and the main engine ground from the engine head to the DS battery. The DS battery is wired in parallel to the PS (primary) battery. Using the large gauge cables for everything really gets the juice flowing, and having these parallel 930CCA batteries causes the truck to crank SUPER fast.

I know that everyone says "wire your batteries with an isolator", but I didn't want the added complexity, nor added cost, of a controller and switch. Having the batteries in parallel doubles my capacity, which is really what I was looking for. When I add a winch I'll likely add a big marine switch so I can disconnect the "house" battery from the main battery when I'm camping or whatever. That'll be perfect for me.

Hopefully I'll get to my tie-rod shorten mini-project today so that I can have my new tires mounted tomorrow.

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Big fat engine ground.

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How have your Die Hard Platinum's been holding up? Mine were always sluggish in the cold....even when new....unless I ran 'em in parallel through the IBS.

One of 'em just bit the dust, it was 2 years old, and the Sears store gave me their new AMG Advanced Gold and $30 back! I was thinking about switching to the the Odyssey 34-PC1500T but it's hard to beat that nationwide Sears warranty. I swapped mine out under warranty over 3000 miles away from where I originally bought it ya know.
 
How have your Die Hard Platinum's been holding up? Mine were always sluggish in the cold....even when new.

One of 'em just bit the dust, it was 2 years old, and the Sears store gave me their new AMG Advanced Gold and $30 back! I was thinking about switching to the the Odyssey 34-PC1500T but it's hard to beat that nationwide Sears warranty. I swapped mine out under warranty over 3000 miles away from where I originally bought it ya know.

The batteries have been awesome. The driver's side battery I bought coming up on three years ago and have only used it to jump my other battery or in a battery welder, so pretty much storage. The passenger battery has been flawless.

I'm sure I could have repaired my battery cable situation and been fine with one battery, all year round. Last year there was no issue whatsoever.
 
The batteries have been awesome. The driver's side battery I bought coming up on three years ago and have only used it to jump my other battery or in a battery welder, so pretty much storage. The passenger battery has been flawless.

I'm sure I could have repaired my battery cable situation and been fine with one battery, all year round. Last year there was no issue whatsoever.

Noice! I saw they had discontinued 'em....I guess they were having trouble with 'em. Me bringing in my battery in was no surprise to the shop you could say. Glad yours is dialed in.
 
Noice! I saw they had discontinued 'em....I guess they were having trouble with 'em. Me bringing in my battery in was no surprise to the shop you could say. Glad yours is dialed in.

When did you buy your batteries? At some point in the not too distant past Sears stopped slapping their label on the odyssey batteries (for the platinum line) and went the cheaper route. My batteries are roughly three years old and I *believe* that they're the re-branded odysseys.
 
When did you buy your batteries? At some point in the not too distant past Sears stopped slapping their label on the odyssey batteries (for the platinum line) and went the cheaper route. My batteries are roughly three years old and I *believe* that they're the re-branded odysseys.

11/25/13 is when I got mine, a Diehard Platinum Group 65 (which died) and a Group 34M.

I put mine through the ringer I suppose, so not disappointed. Also glad that Sears swapped out my battery with a brand new one, with a 3 year full replacement warranty now, instead of the 4 year on the platinum's.
 
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Johnny--you're going to burn down your truck. Please fix your wiring. I still want to get you to come out to Ca for Rubicon.

You have an unfused hot lead running between the radiator and the hood. You have a built in chafe spot over the battery hold down. That is a recipe for some serious pain. You have to fuse the big hot lead at both ends-right next to the battery. Since you used 1/0 wire you can fuse with pretty big fuses-something like 250-300 amp. About the only affordable 300 amp fuses are ANL fuses which are built to protect power cables and so perfect for your application.

Assuming you do that, remember that audio store ANL fuse holders are JUNK. Get the Blue Sea holders which are super nice quality.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...fuse holder&qid=1448375516&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
 
Wire loom/chafe protection for those wires is on the list of items to pick up today. I was wondering if anyone was going to catch that.

Do you really think that a fuse is necessary? Trucks that came with factory parallel batteries are direct-wired without a fuse from what I can tell.
 
Or this one for a 500a holder and fuses... beware, their shipping is expensive... buy as much stuff as you might need all at once... and remember to buy a spare fuse or two for each position.

DC Fuses & Holders
 
Re: the wire across the front of the truck: I would worry about a front end hit that would pinch those wires... not impossible to imagine based on how we wheel. Fuses are cheap insurance...
 

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