Mishimoto aluminum radiator....who runs one? (1 Viewer)
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- Thread starter
- #22
Wow, old thread. I’m surprised I didn’t update this thread. I bought one. It fit beautifully. Cooled very well. Sold the truck. As far as I know it’s still doing great. I have a 60 now.
I never see in these posts of aluminum radiator failures whether the radiator was grounded properly. And although most of us like to do our own work, there are some things that I flat out choose to have a (national) shop do so that the warranty extends to labor. Radiator swaps are a bit labor-intensive. I also have documentation then of proper installation, including such things as grounding.
Just came across this. I'm in the process of putting a CSF radiator in my 62. Copper/brass, just like OEM. I think an all aluminum one would be great, but grounding is an issue, as from the factory the radiator is completely isolated from the body thanks to the rubber mounting isolators. Honestly it should be just as simple as a 16 or 14 gauge ground strap connecting the radiator to the body to prevent it from developing leaks due to ground isolation.
I recently installed one in my 60, and would like to route the power steering cooler line through it. Do you happen to know what the thread pitch and size happen to be? I can do a simple barb connection on the hose side with clamps. The PO put a tiny radiator in, and clamped it to the old radiator. I'd like to simplify all of it.
This has me honestly curious. I don't know how hot power steering fluid gets, but if it does exceed engine temperature then a manual transmission rig with a transmission cooler in the radiator would still have a use for the cooler fittings. Pretty slick idea if there's benefit to be gained from it.
I'm not sure either, but I know there's a small "cooler" that is basically a rigid piece of tubing that sits under the radiator. I'm guessing that's the original cooler for the PS. Considering it's a hydraulic pump, I'm guessing the fluid gets fairly warm.
Also, after doing some more searching here, I found the fittings were a 14x1.5 on the radiator side. Shouldn't be too hard to find.
Found this in a different post, so it looks like I'll be leaving things alone...
fj62 tranny cooler into a fj60 power steering cooler
I have a radiator from a FJ62 that I am planning on putting into my 60. The 62 radiator has a tranny cooler built into the radiator. Since I dont have an automatic tranny that needs cooling, I was thinking of using the tranny cooler as a power steering cooler. Does anyone know the range of...
forum.ih8mud.com
Ah, good to know. I hadn't looked into yet so that answers my question.Found this in a different post, so it looks like I'll be leaving things alone...
fj62 tranny cooler into a fj60 power steering cooler
I have a radiator from a FJ62 that I am planning on putting into my 60. The 62 radiator has a tranny cooler built into the radiator. Since I dont have an automatic tranny that needs cooling, I was thinking of using the tranny cooler as a power steering cooler. Does anyone know the range of...
My 2 cents on this radiator since i recently got one. Very nice looking and seemingly well built. The first one i received had a lower tank leak. Mishimoto was very good w warranty and sent me another right away no questions asked. Kind of PITA but i guess it happens. New one is great. Keeps my engine temp noticeably lower. Pretty much pegged quarter up the guage, even on long mountain passes under load. Im running Evans waterless coolant which is $$ but hopefully will solve any electrolysis issues
I also have a mishi in my 62, for about a year now. No fitment issues. It dropped right in and all the holes lined up. The depth of the tranny hose fitting is shallower than oem, but that just required moving the lock nut further down on the thread. I ran a ground wire. I also noticed the temp gauge to run a bit lower after the install. I am happy with it. Running Walmart antifreeze.
- Thread starter
- #33
Update for me: I put one in my 60. That one made it less than 2 years before it started leaking. Mishimoto sent me a replacement for $30 as per their warranty, and this one has been good for a few weeks now.
For those of you experiencing leaks, are you using any kind of electrical bond to the chassis ground?
Regarding p/s fluid getting too hot by using the radiator. If you've ever wheeled slow in the rocks where airflow is non-existent over the frame and factory cooling line, you will know that p/s fluid can exceed 250 degrees. I've seen my steering box boil the water it hits in water crossings. I'd run it through the radiator in a heartbeat.
I got curious when this thread popped up again yesterday. I've got an old meat thermometer in gonna stick in the reservoir after my commute home today to see exactly where it sits after a long highway stretch in 90+ degree heat.
I'd love to see some responses to Spook50's question above. Everything I read on the all-knowing internet about aftermarket aluminum radiators is that they all, even the high quality expensive ones, fail after 2-3 years. They also all seem to cool better, but compared to the 30 years the one I have now has lasted, that doesn't seem like a bargain.
Is this the grounding issue Spook50 mentions above, or it it just the difference between aluminum radiators and brass/copper ones?
Is this the grounding issue Spook50 mentions above, or it it just the difference between aluminum radiators and brass/copper ones?
- Thread starter
- #38
I do not. I should try it on this one and see if it lasts longer.
- Thread starter
- #39
You’re not going to get 30 years out of any radiator made today. Was I happy about my mishimoto leaking after 2 years, especially for the price I paid? Not at all. Was I super pumped they sent me another one for $30? Absolutely. If a CSF or any other brand leaks after that time, you’re SOL. I’ll put a radiator in it every 2 years for $30/ea if that’s what it takes, it’s much better than $350 every 2 years.
An all aluminum radiator should last you a good 10-15 years. People's biggest issue with these is leaks (which not all the time but more often than not is due to pinholes caused by electrolysis from not being grounded to the vehicle). Not uncommon to see it on heater cores as well. I will now, whenever installing a new radiator or heater core, find a way to electrically bond it to the vehicle's ground as a bit of insurance.
