making your own soft top.. because lets be honest.. you've built everything else (1 Viewer)

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You are a god, I am shopping for a good used walking foot sewing machine now. Do you have good pictures or details of how you did the part that goes into the windshield and around the doors. Since I do not have a top to copy, that is my area I am struggling with thinking about how to do.

Once again thanks so much for sharing all this information, and the measurement details are great. Will have to tweak for my 1962 model, but is a huge help for a starting point.
 
Does the front side panel width (5.5") include the material where you would place the piece that fits into the B-pillar bow? (does that make sence?)
 
Does the front side panel width (5.5") include the material where you would place the piece that fits into the B-pillar bow? (does that make sense?)

that definitely makes sense and it is the piece that slides through the b-pillar. The rope piece that slides through gets sewed on the edge of it about 1/2'' in. that way you have a little overlap.

EDIT: does that make sense?
 
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Had a thought about corner length, shrinkage and all. If you cut the corners a little long, and then try them out, and let them shrink, you could always shorten them up afterwards. Kind of like re-hemming pants that are too long.

playing off BikerSmurf's thought here, if you made them a little long you could just let the extra overlap the body some. As long as it doesn't cover the footman loops, you can still strap it down and cinch it tight.
 
that definitely makes sense and it is the piece that slides through the b-pillar. The rope piece that slides through gets sewed on the edge of it about 1/2'' in. that way you have a little overlap.

EDIT: does that make sense?

I think so.. Can you take a pic of this area for me? Also, the zipper areas as well.

:beer:
 
I've purchased marine grade vinyl to re-do the seats in my 40 from a local upholstery shop.
They also sell material for making awnings as would be used on commercial buildings. I originally bought some of this to do the seats and decided to go with the vinyl because the awning material does not stretch to conform to corners. I plan on getting more to make a top with when I get to that point. it is tremendously tough, made to be in the weather continuously, and runs about $9/yard 54" wide. It has the texture of canvas on 1 side. I'll get & post the brand name the next time I go to the store. I have owned boats, convertibles and had other items with fabric covers and know that the weather, mostly the sun can do a lot of damage. I strongly recommend against using any cotton fabric outdoors. It will not hold up.
 
here is some more pics.. does this help?
IMG_1512.jpg
IMG_1513.jpg
 
Investment so far

Top Gun Polyester Canvas: 4.5 yards: $104 ($22.xx) a yard
36'' heavy duty zippers: $5 each x4
UV resistant polyester thread: $26
8 yards of 1'' webbing: $6.40 ($0.80 a yard)
50 count 1'' d rings from amazon: $25
Tear Mender Glue from amazon: $15
1 Yard of Clear Vinyl: haven't bought yet.. expecting $30

Materials: $226

Sewing Machine: $500

Pattern Materials/yard stick/measuring tape/walmart canvas: $100

Total Invested:$726



Looks really nice. Great job. Couple of questions and comments.


Whats the weight of Top Gun?
What size zippers? Are they locking? Double side pulls? I don't think you can have to big of a zipper.
What kind of D-rings? I'm a stainless fan.
What kind of clear vinyl. If your making something that you want to last go Strataglass. It's expensive but it will last.

Even though the new canvas is a lot stronger you might consider adding a second layer of material around the back where the straps are. Those that go for Cotton canvas might want to really think about that.
 
Ant, this is AWSOME, your a very talented young man. It shows in your build as well. Keep up the good work, you might talk me into building one myself.

Mike
 
I have a question on your measurements again.

Are the measurements where you make your cuts? Or are they finished size? Im wondering about the finished edges. I assume you need to roll the edge and sew it so you dont have the frayed edges all over the place. How much do you allow for the edge to be folded onto itself? 1/2 inch? And if so, do you ad this 1/2 inch to your measurements?

Sorry for the questions just want to clarify things. Oh and Back Panel info???

:beer:
 
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I have a question on your measurements again.

Are the measurements where you make your cuts? Or are they finished size? Im wondering about the finished edges. I assume you need to roll the edge and sew it so you dont have the frayed edges all over the place. How much do you allow for the edge to be folded onto itself? 1/2 inch? And if so, do you ad this 1/2 inch to your measurements?

Sorry for the questions just want to clarify things. Oh and Back Panel info???

:beer:


my bad - i've been wicked busy at work and a little lazy with the soft top project... busy taking the doors off my current truck and wire wheeling the s*** out of some old spring packs.

Measurements are FINISHED size. The extra I was just eyeballing.. but I plan on making it a lot cleaner/exact. I would say .5-.75'' extra on every side is enough to make a hem.

standby for the drawing of the back.. but as of right now i have..

34'' tall from top to doors/tailgate
9.5'' wide rear side panels with a curve at the top.. (cut to match the curve in your bows)
39'' wide rear roll up panel (with zippers attached to the rear side panels). How far up is up to you.. most are about 6'' from the top.

**these are my guesses for a standard softtop with barn doors/tailgate.

if you have rear amby doors the rear of the top is a little different in design which i will show in the picture (most of you do not have this style)

marshall - most of the info for the material is googled pretty easily.. standby and i'll type it all up.
 
amazing job man
 
Do you have a welting or piping foot to do that, ir just as close as you can with the standard foot. Looks great, pics are very good.

I've seen standard feet ground down to allow sewing closer. Often, you can quite close with a regular foot though.
 
I've seen standard feet ground down to allow sewing closer. Often, you can quite close with a regular foot though.

I picked up a singer 211U566 walking foot, and I also got right and left zipper feet, and 1/4 and 3/8 piping feet. As soon as I get over my strep throat I will be out there playing with it. Came with over 50 yards of material they guy used to make boat tops, including material for windows. I think it will sew through concrete. Your earlier advice about them sewing long after turning off is real important. Turn it off and even a few minutes later if you push the pedal it will sew more.
 
I was reading the OCDBeetle guy' info on his tops and he uses a 18 oz marine treated cotton duck, I haven't been able to find a canvas that heavy that's been treated. Does anyone know where I could find that or if it's necessary to have 18 oz canvas, or can it be lighter?
 
I was reading the OCDBeetle guy' info on his tops and he uses a 18 oz marine treated cotton duck, I haven't been able to find a canvas that heavy that's been treated. Does anyone know where I could find that or if it's necessary to have 18 oz canvas, or can it be lighter?

Did a quick search and found this place that has the 18oz Duck fabric in a few colors including OD and Tan.
Dyed #08 Cotton Duck Fabric By-The-Yard

16.99 per linear yard at 58" wide. (Marine treated too)
I'm sure there are a ton more places that have more options as well.

:beer:
 

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