LX 570 Harrop Supercharger Stage 1 and 2 Impressions (3 Viewers)

[Gary200akaJimmy]

Whats it feel like cowboy?

I feel cliche saying this because it’s what so many others say, however it’s the truth. With the Harrop, it drives as it should have come from the factory. That combine with the powerbrakes and it’s a dream come true. I have a Dissent rear with 40 gal LRA tank, Bud Built sliders with their full Aluminum skid plates front to back so I’m a little heavier than stock. Also running 285/65/18 AT3. The added power even from the stage 1 is where this vehicle should be. From a red light stop your head gets thrown back as if you are in a 5 series BMW sedan. Getting on a highway from the on ramp also puts a smile on your face. No more looking for a gap to get in, with the Harrop you just give it gas and move to the front. If you are on the fence just do it. Stage one is plenty so start there, if you need more than add it later.

 

[AnyMal]

I feel cliche saying this because it’s what so many others say, however it’s the truth. With the Harrop, it drives as it should have come from the factory. That combine with the powerbrakes and it’s a dream come true. I have a Dissent rear with 40 gal LRA tank, Bud Built sliders with their full Aluminum skid plates front to back so I’m a little heavier than stock. Also running 285/65/18 AT3. The added power even from the stage 1 is where this vehicle should be. From a red light stop your head gets thrown back as if you are in a 5 series BMW sedan. Getting on a highway from the on ramp also puts a smile on your face. No more looking for a gap to get in, with the Harrop you just give it gas and move to the front. If you are on the fence just do it. Stage one is plenty so start there, if you need more than add it later.

Honestly that’s exactly what my truck needs and exactly what im looking for. Idc about the milking the engine for 500k if i dont enjoy it.

What was it all in? $12k?

 

[Gary200akaJimmy]

Honestly that’s exactly what my truck needs and exactly what im looking for. Idc about the milking the engine for 500k if i dont enjoy it.

What was it all in? $12k?

I was just under $13k. Would have been a little lower but I had extra labor due to skids and a few other things. Have had quotes from several shops the average was $12.5k. Do the shop a favor and run a tank of premium through the engine prior to drop off and run your fuel tank as low as possible as they do have to drop the tank to install a new fuel pump. FYI my ‘17 has 132k on the odometer

 

[dnh1]

I bought an FJ60 about 16 months ago. I drive it about 1/3 of the time and my 200 2/3 of the time. Every time I get in my 200 (which is stock), it feels like I have a race car. I can't imagine what it would feel like with a supercharger.

I would prefer to spend my $$$$ getting an LS swap in my 60.

 

[Gary200akaJimmy]

I bought an FJ60 about 16 months ago. I drive it about 1/3 of the time and my 200 2/3 of the time. Every time I get in my 200 (which is stock), it feels like I have a race car. I can't imagine what it would feel like with a supercharger.

I would prefer to spend my $$$$ getting an LS swap in my 60.

By all means spend your money how you want

For me, I’m happy with my purchase and only wish I had done it sooner. An LS in a 60 is the way to go from what I’ve heard and will last a long time

 

[gluaisrothai]

VFtuner had the file for my 2018 LX and we found the file for someone else's 2021 LC. So i think any 2016+ should be able to be tuned by VFTuner.

Yes..because I shipped them a brand new ‘21 ECU to read…you’re welcome Anyone want to buy a spare ‘21 HE ECU??

 

[gluaisrothai]

I feel cliche saying this because it’s what so many others say, however it’s the truth. With the Harrop, it drives as it should have come from the factory. That combine with the powerbrakes and it’s a dream come true. I have a Dissent rear with 40 gal LRA tank, Bud Built sliders with their full Aluminum skid plates front to back so I’m a little heavier than stock. Also running 285/65/18 AT3. The added power even from the stage 1 is where this vehicle should be. From a red light stop your head gets thrown back as if you are in a 5 series BMW sedan. Getting on a highway from the on ramp also puts a smile on your face. No more looking for a gap to get in, with the Harrop you just give it gas and move to the front. If you are on the fence just do it. Stage one is plenty so start there, if you need more than add it later.

Agreed on all points. Plus if you spend any time at high elevation the ‘charger helps out a lot.

 

[Gary200akaJimmy]

Agreed on all points. Plus if you spend any time at high elevation the ‘charger helps out a lot.

That’s exactly why I did it. We have a place in Aspen and I am tired of the loss of power going over the passes.

 

[Dunbar]

My 62 with a spanked 3FE and H55F 5 speed is a pleasure to drive. The 200 with pedal commander alone hauls butt. Can't wait to get my Harrop on it. Been in my shop for quite a while. My kids have out 460LS at college and I miss it's throttle response. I need to carve out time for the install of the Harrop.

 

[Jason Andrews]

A few points I'll add to anyone considering stage 2 on a '16+. I've found the Tundras to not have this issue, but the LC/LX do not like any injector other than stock or TRD green ones that come with the Magnuson kit. IIRC stock injectors are 372cc and the TRD's are 535cc. I'm 1 of about 4 other LC/LX that I know of in Colorado area that have a warm start issue with aftermarket injectors. Experienced tuner said Prospeed, Fuel Injector Clinic, and DW, all 650, 750, 775cc cause this. He just did a '21 HE with TRD's and no problem.

Getting a stage 1 tune essentially puts the 535cc injectors near max duty cycle. I have not heard of anyone using a larger injector and not have intermittent warm start issues....seems we are stuck at stage 1 for the time being.

Other mods that are easy to do to increase cooling for towing etc- even if you don't have a SC:
1. TRD radiator cap to increase the cooling system pressure over stock. 16psi to 19psi or something like that.
2. Swap to Toyota RED coolant over the pink extended interval. Changing every 25k may seem short, but every 100k is just lazy.

 

[bjowett]

Some of the Tundras do have the hot start issue, just as you have described.

The vdj200 diesel radiator will help with cooling. Same core as the gasser, but the header tank has a bleed port and large degas tank.

 

[skrypj]

A few points I'll add to anyone considering stage 2 on a '16+. I've found the Tundras to not have this issue, but the LC/LX do not like any injector other than stock or TRD green ones that come with the Magnuson kit. IIRC stock injectors are 372cc and the TRD's are 535cc. I'm 1 of about 4 other LC/LX that I know of in Colorado area that have a warm start issue with aftermarket injectors. Experienced tuner said Prospeed, Fuel Injector Clinic, and DW, all 650, 750, 775cc cause this. He just did a '21 HE with TRD's and no problem.

Getting a stage 1 tune essentially puts the 535cc injectors near max duty cycle. I have not heard of anyone using a larger injector and not have intermittent warm start issues....seems we are stuck at stage 1 for the time being.

Other mods that are easy to do to increase cooling for towing etc- even if you don't have a SC:
1. TRD radiator cap to increase the cooling system pressure over stock. 16psi to 19psi or something like that.
2. Swap to Toyota RED coolant over the pink extended interval. Changing every 25k may seem short, but every 100k is just lazy.

Does the coolant temperature ever even go up? Towing my travel trailer over passes here in UT I have barely even seen the coolant temp break 200F. Boiling point for a 16 psi cap is like 265 or 270*

I would lower the coolant concentration for better heat transfer if anything. Drop it to 40% Coolant/60% DI water or less if you are in a warmer climate and throw in some water wetter.

 

[Gr8Daneger]

Following up on my post from March 18th. I am in Dallas so going to Prospeed in Houston presented some logistical challenges. I ended up at Goode’s Offroad locally and am beyond impressed! I’m the black one. He had also finished up this LX. There are no identifiers on the LX but if it’s yours and you want me to remove it please let me know. Also if it’s yours, very nice LX!!!

View attachment 3603619

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Was Goode’s able to tune yours as well or just install?

 

[c4xplsv]

I too have ordered a Harrop… looking forward to the near future.

 

[BadReligion]

Some of the Tundras do have the hot start issue, just as you have described.

The vdj200 diesel radiator will help with cooling. Same core as the gasser, but the header tank has a bleed port and large degas tank.

How bad are the hot start issues? Multiple cranks to start, or no start at all until it cools?

 

[Jason Andrews]

How bad are the hot start issues? Multiple cranks to start, or no start at all until it cools?

Most of the ones I’ve heard of are the same as mine. It will start every time; but starts at the very end of the 2nd cycle or the beginning of the the 3rd.

It’s annoying and embarrassing.

 

[BadReligion]

Most of the ones I’ve heard of are the same as mine. It will start every time; but starts at the very end of the 2nd cycle or the beginning of the the 3rd.

It’s annoying and embarrassing.

Do the tuners have any idea what is causing this? Sounds like flooding but that is just a wild guess. Are there different fueling parameters for hot vs cold start?

 

[Jason Andrews]

Does the coolant temperature ever even go up? Towing my travel trailer over passes here in UT I have barely even seen the coolant temp break 200F. Boiling point for a 16 psi cap is like 265 or 270*

I would lower the coolant concentration for better heat transfer if anything. Drop it to 40% Coolant/60% DI water or less if you are in a warmer climate and throw in some water wetter.

Last time I towed heavy it was -20*F so I'm not sure. Will be towing my 80 series from 5k-10k ft this week and have OBD Fusion to monitor it. I can't imagine it getting anywhere near that high. I've seen a couple videos of engine tear downs of failed 3UR's and the #5 cylinder seems to be the common fail point. I'm speculating the TRD rad cap and the Toyota red would help more quickly distribute the extra heat of a given cylinder for very short bursts like WOT stabs.

Do the tuners have any idea what is causing this? Sounds like flooding but that is just a wild guess. Are there different fueling parameters for hot vs cold start?

Suspecting injector cranking pulse width, but my tuner played with it a ton with no changes in the symptom. Yes, to me it seems like its dripping extra fuel when shut off which is causing the intermittent hot start.

 

[BadReligion]

Suspecting injector cranking pulse width, but my tuner played with it a ton with no changes in the symptom. Yes, to me it seems like its dripping extra fuel when shut off which is causing the intermittent hot start.

Good to know. I'm hopeful someone will figure this out in the near future because otherwise it seems like Stage 2 is well worth it.

 

[gluaisrothai]

Getting a stage 1 tune essentially puts the 535cc injectors near max duty cycle. I have not heard of anyone using a larger injector and not have intermittent warm start issues....seems we are stuck at stage 1 for the time being.

Interesting. I understood that stage 1 (Harrop stock pulley/7psi boost, no ECU changes) had plenty of fueling with stock injectors. Did your stage 1 go above 7psi to need bigger injectors?

Ken