Builds Lou60 - an East TX Gem (2 Viewers)

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And that brings me to the current situation. Motor is damaged due to equipment failure. About 7 months of work gone in less than a minute.

I am going to talk with the company to discus the situation and see what they do to make it "right".

Some background- I have used their filter set up over the past 5 years on 4 different vehicles with a combined 45K miles or so. I know and trusted their product. I still have the same model filter on my 2500HD 6.0 LY6 with excellent results.

I am frustrated, pissed, and disbelief this happened. I will keep you guys posted on what I hear back from them.
 
I’m sick to my stomach for you.
Hopefully they do something, but I can’t imagine what level, short of footing the bill for another rebuild, would ease the blow.
 
did you cut open any filters from before you did all this work? I would pull pan and check a few rod bearings before assuming the worst
 
RevISK said:
...Hopefully they do something, but I can’t imagine what level, short of footing the bill for another rebuild, would ease the blow.
Click to expand...

My thoughts exactly. My hopes are not high.
 
crtx said:
My thoughts exactly. My hopes are not high.
Click to expand...
What you didn't post on IG was that the motor sounded fine after you refilled with oil. Things are bad, but they could be way worse. No window in the block, no broken rods flopping around, no chunks of valves being pummeled inside the cylinders. I'm not trying to minimize what's going because it's definitely bad, but you hear what I'm saying.

Fingers crossed you can drop the oil pan, replace some wiped out bearings, and carry on. Although I know my personal anxiety would probably have me pulling the motor.

Edit: When I got my current 60 Matilda in 2022, there was no oil on the dipstick. The seller had stored it in his temperature-controlled garage for five years and there's wasn't a single drop of oil on the ground. It took six quarts to refill, meaning it had two quarts in it. He parked it because "it was hard to start and keep running". I've put 30k miles on it so far, and while the motor is definitely tired and makes some weird noises that even "experts" can't figure out, it runs. 1000 mile road trips, no problem, huge mountain passes, daily driving. It just keeps going. Now ... I'm embarking on a rebuild of a spare 2F I'm swapping in, if that tells you anything.
 
cruisermatt said:
Did you cut open any filters from before you did all this work?...
Click to expand...

No on cutting open a filter previously. I visually inspected the D3 filter that was removed at the time of instal (of the bypass filter). I open up the anti-flow back valve and inspect the oil removed. No metallic or glitter came out- so I did not go any further to cut open the filter.
 
CruiserTrash said:
What you didn't post on IG was that the motor sounded fine after you refilled with oil. Things are bad, but they could be way worse. No window in the block, no broken rods flopping around, no chunks of valves being pummeled inside the cylinders. I'm not trying to minimize what's going because it's definitely bad, but you hear what I'm saying.

Fingers crossed you can drop the oil pan, replace some wiped out bearings, and carry on. Although I know my personal anxiety would probably have me pulling the motor.
Click to expand...

Exactly right. It could be way worse. Indicator of damage is based on oil and filter inspection. There is no knocking sound present.

And I hear you- I like to focus on the positives of a crappy situation as well.
 
I've kicked a few rods and rod bearings out of some F engines in the past. I had to do some REALLY stupid activities to make that happen. Pull the pan and check the rod bearings but I think you are probably going to be fine.
 
Hokie LX said:
Did you use Megs #7 for the "patina sauce"? I've used that back in my detailing days to rehydrate single stage paint doing 4-6 applications of sit, absorb, and wipe with great results.
Click to expand...

I used LS Fabrication "Sweet Patina Sauce".
 
Update on Lou60. Drove her for about 20 miles today. Motor is “fine” as far as no knocking or horrendous noises. Oil pressure gauge indicates oil pressure has increased since the first drive after the bypass filter incident… are 2Fs self healing 😂? Did another oil change and oil still has glitter. Oil filter has about 1/4 the bearing matter as the previous filter removed.

Oil filter company is dragging their feet. I am waiting to hear back from their chief engineer.

Oil analysis results are pending as samples have been sent to Blackstone. Multiple guys have reached out saying that they have had engines be completely starved of motor oil and continue to run another 100,000+ miles.

Options I am considering: 1. Just drive this 2F until it throws in the towel. Could it be 200 miles, or 200K miles? Who knows. 2. Do a light rebuild- rod bearings and mains and button her back up. 3. Park Lou up for a while and wait until I have the time to do a “all out” rebuild.

Right now is terrible timing as newborn just arrived and pieces are in motion to purchase an offsite garage. Can’t afford to sink 12K into a hot rod build.. And still end up with 180HP. Haha


Screenshot 2024-09-09 at 7.59.16 AM.png
 
A side project I have been working on... coolant filtration. Testing currently before I offer these to customers and MUD. These will work on 60, 80, and 100 series.

This is hooked up to the rear heater circuit. New OEM coolant lines, Donaldson BLUE filter, breeze clamps, billet filter base, etc. I will create a separate thread on the topic and design.

Here it is mounted to Lou:

Screenshot 2024-09-09 at 8.04.15 AM.png


Screenshot 2024-09-09 at 8.04.01 AM.png
 
crtx said:
Oil analysis results are pending as samples have been sent to Blackstone. Multiple guys have reached out saying that they have had engines be completely starved of motor oil and continue to run another 100,000+ miles.

Options I am considering: 1. Just drive this 2F until it throws in the towel. Could it be 200 miles, or 200K miles? Who knows. 2. Do a light rebuild- rod bearings and mains and button her back up. 3. Park Lou up for a while and wait until I have the time to do a “all out” rebuild.
Click to expand...

#1 and keep a close watch on it. On one 2F the oil sending unit became loose. I think a rock hit it just right to spin it loose, but not sure. In about 200 miles lost at least 6 qts. Re-tightened oil sending unit, refilled oil, and drove for several more years. Second 2F noticed the Autometer oil gauge dropped to near very low pressure, typically 60 psi, while taking a turn. Checked oil level which was very low, and added 6+ quarts. This was a one-time occurrence and I'm not sure why so much oil was lost. Anyway, that was 8-9 years ago and this engine has >300k on it and is doing well for its mileage.
 
Godwin said:
#1 and keep a close watch on it. On one 2F the oil sending unit became loose. I think a rock hit it just right to spin it loose, but not sure. In about 200 miles lost at least 6 qts. Re-tightened oil sending unit, refilled oil, and drove for several more years. Second 2F noticed the Autometer oil gauge dropped to near very low pressure, typically 60 psi, while taking a turn. Checked oil level which was very low, and added 6+ quarts. This was a one-time occurrence and I'm not sure why so much oil was lost. Anyway, that was 8-9 years ago and this engine has >300k on it and is doing well for its mileage.
Click to expand...
Jim, what is the typical oil pressure under various circumstances on a 2F? I haven't found a straight answer to that in the forums.
 
CruiserTrash said:
Jim, what is the typical oil pressure under various circumstances on a 2F? I haven't found a straight answer to that in the forums.
Click to expand...

40 at idle, 60 at any rpm above idle, for example 1500+. This is from observations over a couple of decades and multiple hundreds of thousands of miles using Autometer Z series gauges in two 2Fs and one 3FE. Cold, fresh oil will see pressure up to ca. 70 psi at a higher rpm, let's say 3k, but as the oil warms and thins the higher pressure limit drops to ca. 60. Once oil has 500+ miles of use (kinda guessing on the mileage) that 70 psi high will no longer occur.

For the most part over this time and mileage I've used Rotella 10-40W, but prior to that the oil I tended to use was Castrol 20-50W. If a lower weight oil, for example 10-30 is used, that may reflect a different consistent oil pressure.
 
Still waiting on Blackstone Lab Results for the oil. They called to get some more details on the situation.

In the meantime... Continuing to dial in details. Leaf Spring bushings replaced OME. Poly bushings. Helped with high speed tracking. Witness marked because... race tractor.
Screenshot 2024-09-22 at 3.13.13 PM.png

Screenshot 2024-09-22 at 3.13.24 PM.png
 
More odds and ends. Fuel Cap Gasket: 77316-12050 and Oil cap gasket: 90430-37140.

Also decided to pull the rear driveshaft for rebuild. Joints were tight but grabby. They were loaded with nasty water contaminated grease.

Found the transfer case stake nut was backing off and the rear pinion flange had play. T-case nut was tightened back to spec and re-staked. Rear pinion seal was replaced with the new and improved toyota seal and tightened up a smidge. Play went away.

T-case nut backing off:
Screenshot 2024-09-22 at 9.45.58 PM.png


Rear pinion. Stake still in place... so play due to wear.
Screenshot 2024-09-22 at 9.46.09 PM.png

Rear U-joints:
Screenshot 2024-09-22 at 9.46.21 PM.png
 
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