FJ62 Revival, NM Truck Saved

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Over the past months, I have been doubling back on all the systems. When a vehicle goes from sitting 20 years, to cruising the Dallas Tollway at 80MPH... junk will be kicked up.

The big focus has been fuel delivery. Fuel filter, injectors, seals, grommets, FPR, Damper, etc.

I pulled the injectors and had them sent out to be cleaned by InjectorRX. Injector 3 was the worst at 17% plugged. Once the fresh injectors went in, I also adjusted TPS and Idle control sensors to FSM spec. This thing purrs now. Here are the results:

Screen Shot 2023-02-01 at 3.44.43 PM.png


New Injectors and FPR:

IMG_0841.jpg


Fresh OEM fuel filter went in. Here is old dirty filter:

IMG_0842.jpg


Old and dirty injectors prior to cleaning by injectorRX in Houston:

IMG_0843.jpg


Old injector spacers, Old V new:

IMG_0844.jpg



Parts used:

Replace injectors after cleaning.

6x 90561-10004 : injector spacer
6x 90301-19006: injector o-ring
4x 90430-08011: brass union gasket
90430-12005: lower gasket
6x 90480-13005: Grommet
3x 90561-08023: Spacer
Fuel pressure regulator NLA, but OEM alternative: 23280-74100
23207-46010 / 23207-20011: Pulsation Damper
23232‑28010: Upper Gasket
90430‑12005: Lower Gasket
6x Injector grommets: 23291-73010
4x 90430-08011: union gasket
Cold Start injector gasket: 23293-74010
Fuel Filter: 23300-69025
 
Last edited:
Over the past months, I have been doubling back on all the systems. When a vehicle goes from sitting 20 years, to cruiseing the Dallas Tollway at 80MPH... junk will be kicked up.

The big focus has been fuel delivery. Fuel filter, injectors, seals, grommets, FPR, Damper, etc.

I pulled the injectors and had them sent out to be cleaned by InjectorRX. Injector 3 was the worst at 17% plugged. Once the fresh injectors went in, I also adjusted TPS and Idle control sensors to FSM spec. This thing purrs now. Here are the results:

View attachment 3236289

New Injectors and FPR:

View attachment 3236296

Fresh OEM fuel filter went in. Here is old dirty filter:

View attachment 3236298

Old and dirty injectors prior to cleaning by injectorRX in Houston:

View attachment 3236299

Old injector spacers, Old V new:

View attachment 3236300


Parts used:

Replace injectors after cleaning.

6x 90561-10004 : injector spacer
6x 90301-19006: injector o-ring
4x 90430-08011: brass union gasket
90430-12005: lower gasket
6x 90480-13005: Grommet
3x 90561-08023: Spacer
Fuel pressure regulator NLA, but OEM alternative: 23280-74100
23207-46010 / 23207-20011: Pulsation Damper
23232‑28010: Upper Gasket
90430‑12005: Lower Gasket
6x Injector grommets: 23291-73010
4x 90430-08011: union gasket
Cold Start injector gasket: 23293-74010
Fuel Filter: 23300-69025
A 62 on the DNT. At 80 no less!
Says a lot about how well you brought this back from the dead. Been following along ……
 
Just read the entire thread. What a pro-grade job you have done on the restoration.

The paint (as you got it) was a real mess. Did you repaint it yourself or have a shop do it? Kudos on going back to the original color scheme.
 
A 62 on the DNT. At 80 no less!
Says a lot about how well you brought this back from the dead. Been following along ……

Thank you! Crazy to look back at how far it has come in the past 1.5 years. Still more to come.

Just read the entire thread. What a pro-grade job you have done on the restoration.

The paint (as you got it) was a real mess. Did you repaint it yourself or have a shop do it? Kudos on going back to the original color scheme.

Appreciate it! I did not repaint it myself. I do everything except paint and body. I called around the DFW area to get quotes. What a price range... Everything from $2k to $35K.


Long story short... when I was at the exhaust shop, an old school hot rodder pulled up with a LS swapped C10 with a smoking hot red paint job.

I asked him about the paint situation- and he pointed me down the road 5 min to an old school shop called "Spectrum". Great fit for what I was looking for.
 
Couple of Random items to refresh, first being the U shaped bypass hose on the left side of the motor under the T-stat housing. It was starting to swell, so time to swap it out.

Bypass Coolant hose to T stat housing: 16261-61020 or GATES 21862 using breeze stainless clamps.

IMG_1094.webp


Once this was completed, I had a no start condition. The cold start injector was not firing, so the Coolant temp sensor for EFI was the culprit. Upon inspection, the plug was cracked, and the wiring was questionable.

Cracked EFI coolant sensor:

Screenshot 2023-02-28 at 8.49.50 AM.webp


Sensor upon removal:

Screenshot 2023-02-28 at 8.50.08 AM.webp


Coolant Temp gauge plug (feed for dash). Check out condition of wires:

Screenshot 2023-02-28 at 8.49.15 AM.webp


Example of shiny new sensors and plugs:

Screenshot 2023-02-28 at 8.49.32 AM.webp
 
In summary - The T stat housing wiring and sensors have been updated. Nearly every connection was brittle, and fell apart upon removal. The positive engagment of the new plugs and connections are very satisfying. Cruiser now starts up instantly. No start problem solved.

One last photo of the carnage:

Screenshot 2023-02-28 at 8.50.24 AM.webp
 
The paint (as you got it) was a real mess. Did you repaint it yourself or have a shop do it? Kudos on going back to the original color scheme.

Receiving lots of DMs in regards to paint in the DFW area. There is a huge shortage of shops willing to take on 'non- insurance' work.

The shop I used is called "Spectrum". Here is their contact Info. (FYI, I have no connection to these guys. Just a satisfied customer.)

"Spectrum Truck painting"
699 E State Highway 121
Lewisville, TX 75057
spectrumtruckpainting@hotmail.com


Once again- these guys are not a "show room" paint option. They are a solid option for a daily driver thats about a 4 footer. Total cost was $4K.
 
Nice revival.

I have a two toned 62 as well, ‘88.

image.webp


Was just up in Dallas with it for a couple weeks on a series of jobs and will be back up on Monday for another week. The only other cruisers (not late model) I saw was a white, stock 62 and my work buddy from Austin who keeps his 62 up there for work.
 
Couple of updates: Cruiser is live and well. Is driven every couple of weeks.

This thread has turned into a "how to" thread for fuel tank reseal. Fuel tank refresh and reseal has held up great after a few years. Very pleased with the outcome. I have have done the same reseal process on multiple other tanks with positive outcome.

If your fuel tank is leaking due to rust, I would not attempt the reseal. Reach out to @cruisermatt for his new OEM tank. Very impressive quality.
 
Did the tank we sent you go in this truck or a different one?
 
Getting the horn to work:

Prior owner removed the stock horns, and had some old signal tones that came with the truck.

I hooked those up, but instantly blew the 15A horn/haz fuse (in cab fuse box). I went through 2 fuses, and decided to heck with it. Time for a modern/ high performance horn. Old design was weak at best, and a relay set up would be needed regardless to get the juice I wanted.

I went with Hella Sharptones. From amazon. They are a deeper tone then the other hella options. $23

Amazon listing:

View attachment 2808763

Mounted in stock location:

View attachment 2808773

Wiring Info:
View attachment 2808775

My visual model, and list for what I needed to buy:

View attachment 2808778

Hey. I'm working on this project right now and your notes have been fantastic. I have a couple of questions.
  • For Pin 87: I go from this pin to the positive terminal on the horn and then take the negative of the horn to ground?
  • For Pin 85: Where do I find the negative for the steering wheel horn?
  • When I look at your pictures, it appears you are not using the factory harness. Is there a way to wire this and use the factory harness?
Thanks!
 
Great thread, I have to do everything you already did!

Thank you!

Hey. I'm working on this project right now and your notes have been fantastic. I have a couple of questions.
  • For Pin 87: I go from this pin to the positive terminal on the horn and then take the negative of the horn to ground?
  • For Pin 85: Where do I find the negative for the steering wheel horn?
  • When I look at your pictures, it appears you are not using the factory harness. Is there a way to wire this and use the factory harness?
Thanks!

Pin 87 question- yes, correct

Pin 85 question- use the original horn trigger input. 85 / 86 can be interchanged

Factory harness can stay in place, but additional wiring has to be added regardless.
 
Thank you!



Pin 87 question- yes, correct

Pin 85 question- use the original horn trigger input. 85 / 86 can be interchanged

Factory harness can stay in place, but additional wiring has to be added regardless.
Thanks man. Much appreciated.
 
Thank you!



Pin 87 question- yes, correct

Pin 85 question- use the original horn trigger input. 85 / 86 can be interchanged

Factory harness can stay in place, but additional wiring has to be added regardless.
Ok. So, this wiring is kicking my butt. I have a few more questions, but would like to share some details about what I'm seeing.

The wiring harness coming into my horns have a green wire and a green/red wire. I tested the wires and I get 12V constant from the green/red wire. As I was messing around, I found that if I connected the horn directly to the green/red in the harness and to ground, I got all horn all the time. LOL

I tried to wire up the horn based on your diagram (or my interpretation of your diagram). So, here come my questions.
  • 30: The wire to the battery through a fuse, makes complete sense and it is very simple.
  • 87: This just goes to the horn. Does it matter which terminal on the horn? Does it go anywhere else from there?
  • 85/86: The way I read the diagram is that one goes to the green wire in harness and one goes to the green/red in harness. Is that wrong?
I'm obviously missing something, so please try to explain this to me like I'm 10, maybe 8. My brain operates at that level when discussing wiring.

Thanks in advance for the guidance.
 
I tried to wire up the horn based on your diagram (or my interpretation of your diagram). So, here come my questions.

The focus of my graphic was figuring out what wiring materials I needed on hand. I would stick to hella instructions for the connections.

I would use this thread as well: Hella Horn Wiring Instructions, See Post 5
 
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