Locking Hubs on Rear Wheels (1 Viewer)

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you will need a full float axle with custom shafts. Cheapest for freewheel towing is to remove the rear driveshaft.
 
well, yes, i just remove the drive shafts

i have never thought of doing that conversion. But, that is tempting. Since I am up 6 inches getting under is not the problem it used to be. Of all the fj's I have owned, I just never considered that as an option, but man, that really sync's with my brain. But the cost???? oh boy...maybe on the next rig.:steer:

I have towed 5 vehicles well over 1500 miles each, and the drive line is right wher I go. I am going to rethink this.:hmm:
 
x2. You need a FF rear axle and custom axle shafts. The rest of it just bolts up. The bolt pattern on the FF hub is identical to that on the front (like many other interchangeable things between the two).

I know I've seen a truck or two with it done (Ige's, I think). They look cool with the Aisin's back there!

Dan
 
I know I've seen a truck or two with it done (Ige's, I think). They look cool with the Aisin's back there!

Dan
You mean like this one?
ffff.jpg
 
yes, cool

are the aisin hubs better than the warn?

MUCH better.

Take one apart, and you'll see that the Aisin hubs have about 3 times the spline area to contact the hub mechanism to the body. They also are better machined and fit together much better IMHO.

Tonight I'll take some pics to compare the Aisin to a pair of Superwinch hubs. I don't have a pair of Warn's sitting around though, although it's a similar story.

Dan
 
I know I've seen a truck or two with it done (Ige's, I think). They look cool with the Aisin's back there!





Ingrids has internal drive Warns, on a Warn full-float conversion....
 
MUCH better.

Take one apart, and you'll see that the Aisin hubs have about 3 times the spline area to contact the hub mechanism to the body. They also are better machined and fit together much better IMHO.



Dan


Not to mention the steel vs aluminum on the hub body, and the lower profile and the unmeasurable coolness;)
 
Pictures I posted about an axle I built from another thread out here:



30 spline 300M CTM shafts




attachment.php







ARP hub studs, Longfield chromo lockout gear and CTM 300M full-float axle shafts....



attachment.php







attachment.php





This configuration has been in service now for three years without any issues....


:meh:
 
The caps are shielding it but my 84 FF rear fills them completely. Put a Free Hub in it and I'd be 2" outside of the tire.

Are there skinnier FF rears than this out there?

SVGA_IMG_2684.JP












:meh:
RedX.jpg
 
smoke it to relax

Full float rear from a 40/55 series is not any wider than a semi-float.

excuse me for asking a dumb question to the cruiser-god who says they are the same width, and thanks for the wise-acre answer but from what little i know (having owned 2 40s, 2 42s and a 70) the semi-floaters end at the wheel and the full-floaters extend out about 3 inches.

BTW, you eat that X and get so your scrawny ass has more energy to huck grenades at the liberating troops. :cheers:
 
excuse me for asking a dumb question to the cruiser-god who says they are the same width, and thanks for the wise-acre answer but from what little i know (having owned 2 40s, 2 42s and a 70) the semi-floaters end at the wheel and the full-floaters extend out about 3 inches.

BTW, you eat that X and get so your scrawny ass has more energy to huck grenades at the liberating troops. :cheers:


I think he was saying...."No pic, only this red "X"
And I think WMS to WMS is the same FFor SF, but the hubs do make a difference in overall width. They make it the same as the front, not exactly charriot wheel knockoffs;)
 
excuse me for asking a dumb question to the cruiser-god who says they are the same width, and thanks for the wise-acre answer but from what little i know (having owned 2 40s, 2 42s and a 70) the semi-floaters end at the wheel and the full-floaters extend out about 3 inches.

BTW, you eat that X and get so your scrawny ass has more energy to huck grenades at the liberating troops. :cheers:

subscribe.... :popcorn:
 
excuse me for asking a dumb question to the cruiser-god who says they are the same width, and thanks for the wise-acre answer but from what little i know (having owned 2 40s, 2 42s and a 70) the semi-floaters end at the wheel and the full-floaters extend out about 3 inches.

BTW, you eat that X and get so your scrawny ass has more energy to huck grenades at the liberating troops. :cheers:

I sense a brutal smack down in the near future...

Scrawny ass? :lol::lol::lol:





Look at your front hub. It extends well beyond the wheel, too. Capiche?
 
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Pictures I posted about an axle I built from another thread out here:



30 spline 300M CTM shafts




attachment.php







ARP hub studs, Longfield chromo lockout gear and CTM 300M full-float axle shafts....



attachment.php







attachment.php





This configuration has been in service now for three years without any issues....


:meh:


How do you keep the axle shafts from drifting into the diff without a snap ring on the hub end? The famous "martack"? Or are the splines on the diff end short enough that its no issue?
 

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