It's the least I could do after all my money you've spent!You just make me drink a little more sometimes.
Let's talk about Hydroboost Brakes
- Thread starter scrapdaddy
- Start date
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BAM!
Just for clarification I'll post this picture and we are talking about the Baffle & Spring Retainer, Piston Return Spring and the Output Rod. None of these items came with the new unit I originally bought and had to be sourced elsewhere, my problem came from not knowing that there is several sizes of output rods and only the correct size will work.
Because we are posting about this in a Toyota section if you’re not running 1 ton axles like Lil’Jon the Cardone 10-1584 master has a 1-5/16” bore and is too big for the Toyota calipers, you need a Cardone 10-1576 or something similar with a 1-1/8” bore.
Because we are posting about this in a Toyota section if you’re not running 1 ton axles like Lil’Jon the Cardone 10-1584 master has a 1-5/16” bore and is too big for the Toyota calipers, you need a Cardone 10-1576 or something similar with a 1-1/8” bore.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
You just make me drink a little more sometimes.
How did I miss this epic quote???
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Hot-topic of the week. All the cool LS kids are talking it up.
- Thread starter
- #86
Yeah, that had my head spinning. I went with Hydratech's universal kit. It uses a Wilwood master 1 1/8" bore and a Bosch booster. They match them up with everything you want/need in the kit.
Sheck44
SILVER Star
Just want to chime in ... I've used a number of Jim's (Hydratech's) systems and he's so great to deal with. My 66' 40 stops as fast as any modern car ... its actually pretty insane how good they work. I am using Wilwood 6 piston fronts and GM rears ... same is planned for Killer Piggy
Cheers
Steve
Cheers
Steve
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Are there any reservations about using the hydroboost with drum rears? Currently I’m setup with a 60 series drum rear with no plans to change (as of yet).
- Thread starter
- #89
None that I know of, but that's not say'n a lot.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Checked out the Hydratech website
According to the FAQ hydroboost isn’t recommended for front drums, but fine with disc front and drum rear.
Ron, how are you planning on mounting the booster to the firewall?
Welcome to Hydratech Braking Systems :: High Performance Hydraulic Brake Assist Systems
Hydratech Braking Systems Show Prepared High Performance Hydraulic Brake Assist Systems
www.hydratechbraking.com
According to the FAQ hydroboost isn’t recommended for front drums, but fine with disc front and drum rear.
Ron, how are you planning on mounting the booster to the firewall?
- Thread starter
- #91
Hydratech supplies a mounting plate with their universal kit. The plate comes with mounting holes that don't match the firewall, so I welded them up and started over. You need that plate because it has a locking tab in the big hole to hold the booster to the plate. I made a 1/2" spacer in order to move the push rod back to make sure I can get the full pedal travel before bottoming out, might not need it.
you just need a disc/drum prop valve and you will be set. They are like 30-50 bucks.
So another advantage that doesn't effect me but I hear guys have trouble with room for the vacuum booster and the clutch SC. The Hydroboost has less of a diameter to it.
So another advantage that doesn't effect me but I hear guys have trouble with room for the vacuum booster and the clutch SC. The Hydroboost has less of a diameter to it.
gonzopancho
SILVER Star
You can use just the MC if they’re setup with the residual valve for rear drums. The residual valve keeps 5-12 psi on the rear circuit so the wheel cylinder cup seals didn’t pull back.
you don’t want the residual valve if you’re running discs, as you do want the piston and pad to pull back a little.
I bought a proportioning valve for the setup on the 80, but didn’t need it. Remember: fronts lock first (or simultaneously).
you don’t want the residual valve if you’re running discs, as you do want the piston and pad to pull back a little.
I bought a proportioning valve for the setup on the 80, but didn’t need it. Remember: fronts lock first (or simultaneously).
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Good little read here with a doc link at the bottom for testing and rebuilding of the Bendix unit
Dave's Place - Hydro-Boost Brake Systems
dave78chieftain.com
Is it possible to run hyro steering assist while running hydro breaks?
- Thread starter
- #96
Yes, I believe so, if you have a pump up to the task.
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Digging digging digging
Trying to assemble more info pertaining to this topic and overall braking upgrades that work well and convey it in a way that’s understandable.
Inevitably, this thread keeps popping up over and over.
forum.ih8mud.com
Several pages deep, I finally encounter some hard info I’m looking for.
The idea starts with having a completely stock brake setup with a disc front, whether it’s a 55 or 60 series. If you just switch to a Hydro-boost and nothing else, you’d want to try to find a close GM MC to the OEM LC, which is 7/8”. As you go up in that diameter, the pedal gets stiffer and brakes don’t feel to work as well.
If you change out the calipers to the early/mid 90’s 4Runner with the larger pistons, the brakes will feel squishy but the stopping power improves. At that point if you slightly increase the bore diameter of the MC, it will slightly even out to feel more OEM normal. It’s very relative, and increasing the MC bore size too much even with the larger calipers will still cause the brakes to feel stiffer than they should.
So then, if the rear is converted to disc brakes, this introduces another change in hydraulics, whereas then another increase in MC bore size will help to balance the works back out to a more OEM feel. This looks to be the combination that settles in on the 1.125” GM MC size that evens the hydraulics out on this complete brake system change.
Trying to assemble more info pertaining to this topic and overall braking upgrades that work well and convey it in a way that’s understandable.
Inevitably, this thread keeps popping up over and over.
Comments on brakes
I got to thinking that I've made comments about what I learned in two years of designing racing brake components and several decades of working on racing vehicles in many different threads, and perhaps I should put them all in one place instead. This thread is an on-going effort to do just that...
forum.ih8mud.com
Several pages deep, I finally encounter some hard info I’m looking for.
The idea starts with having a completely stock brake setup with a disc front, whether it’s a 55 or 60 series. If you just switch to a Hydro-boost and nothing else, you’d want to try to find a close GM MC to the OEM LC, which is 7/8”. As you go up in that diameter, the pedal gets stiffer and brakes don’t feel to work as well.
If you change out the calipers to the early/mid 90’s 4Runner with the larger pistons, the brakes will feel squishy but the stopping power improves. At that point if you slightly increase the bore diameter of the MC, it will slightly even out to feel more OEM normal. It’s very relative, and increasing the MC bore size too much even with the larger calipers will still cause the brakes to feel stiffer than they should.
So then, if the rear is converted to disc brakes, this introduces another change in hydraulics, whereas then another increase in MC bore size will help to balance the works back out to a more OEM feel. This looks to be the combination that settles in on the 1.125” GM MC size that evens the hydraulics out on this complete brake system change.
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RUSH55
SILVER Star
The second part of this regurgitation is that if a person were to be keeping stock rear drum brakes, what GM master cylinder would work in conjunction with a Hydro -boost? So far I have found this chart. 1993 - 1997 GM F-body (Camero) has a 1” bore size.
Will it hook up to a Hydro-boost?
Will it hook up to a Hydro-boost?
RUSH55
SILVER Star
One other thing to verify - an upgrade to the 90’s 4Runner calipers does or does not require a change in rotors? In other words, LC rotors will work with the 4Runner calipers, yes?
- Thread starter
- #100
Bosch hydroboost manufacturer recommends a 1 1/8 bore master cylinder with their booster.
