Later model seat extensions

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Being a bit over 6 feet tall I'm looking for some way to extend the driver's seat back a bit in my '83. I've done some searching but I haven't had any luck. Seems those like Classic Cruiser's are for up to 78s. I emailed them but they said there isnt enough demand to make them for later models.

Anyone have any solutions?
 
Because of how the tub and seat rails are configured post 01/79, it is not an easy undertaking to move the seats rearward.

You will need to remove the seat rails/slides from the bottom of the seat and make holes in a piece of flat steel that you can attach back to the seat bottom, and then back to the slides.

Before doing this however, I would look at the space available between the inner rear fender and the seat back, and make sure you will have some room.

I have a 12/82-40 at the shop that I may be able to look at in the AM. This truck has aftermarket seats from MAF that I installed in it however....
 
I have a few inches behind the seat, and that solution totally eluded me when I pulled the seat last night and examined the brackets. Thanks!
 
Another way is to drill out the stops on the rails and slide the seat all the way back on the rails. I gained about two and a half inches that way. The only catch is that I had to re-drill some holes through the rails to secure the seat and now can't move the seat any more. I am the only one who drives it so it's no big deal.
 

Looks like a very expensive couple of peices of 1-1/4 X 20" long 1/8 strap steel with 4or5 tapped holes in it. Print off a picture and take it to a local fab or machine shop. I bet you can beat the price by half! Hell, find some one with any ole hot rod or beat up 4x4 and ask for some help making them yourself. Its not rocket science!:beer:
 
Enlarged and brightened for your viewing pleasure.. Looks like some material was removed in the middle section, but as was stated earlier, a local machine shop would have no problem.
seatrl.webp
 
Looks like a very expensive couple of peices of 1-1/4 X 20" long 1/8 strap steel with 4or5 tapped holes in it. Print off a picture and take it to a local fab or machine shop. I bet you can beat the price by half! Hell, find some one with any ole hot rod or beat up 4x4 and ask for some help making them yourself. Its not rocket science!:beer:

There is not a machine shop in Tucson that I'm aware of that will do any work for less than their minimum charge ($40 and up). I don't think you could get a machine shop to perform the number of steps required to fabricate those adapters for $50 dollars. They are going to charge for their labor and the material plus profit.
 
My solution was to use two sections of solid bar for each seat. I cut them to the length available on the seat rails. I used the existing seat rails as a drilling jig for correct hole placement. The first set of holes would secure the bar stock to the rail and were then tapped. The next set of holes I drilled were to secure the seat to the bar stock. On the drivers side, I wanted to move back so I located these seat attachment holes aft of the rail holes. I did this for leg room and driving comfort. On the passenger side, I wanted to move the seat forward for my daughter. I did this to position her forward and upward for better seat belt geometry to her small stature plus improve her view out the door window. Since the seat bottom had captive nuts, the second set of holes did not need to be tapped but they did need to be counter drilled to allow the installed screw head to be flush because bar stock needed to be flush with the bottom of the rail.

Once drilling & tapping was complete, I attached the bar stock to the seat with screws. Then I bolted the rails to the bar stock with the original bolts. Note that this 'traps' the seat screws under the rails.

The out of pocket expense was the purchase of the bar stock. My time to drill the holes was an 'expense' but one that does not hit the books.
 
There is not a machine shop in Tucson that I'm aware of that will do any work for less than their minimum charge ($40 and up). I don't think you could get a machine shop to perform the number of steps required to fabricate those adapters for $50 dollars. They are going to charge for their labor and the material plus profit.

1 peice of 1-1/4x36 long x 1/4 thick flat stock =$9-10
About 30 minutes of work to fab. up those
about 5-7 minutes to saw
about 10-15 minutes to drill 6 and champher 2 holes (including bit change)
about 5-7 minutes to mill center section
Dude, I've been doing this s*** for over 30 years. Built everything from components on the space station to Nascar restrictor-plate intakes.

Like I said, tan't rocket science
 
Enlarged and brightened for your viewing pleasure.. Looks like some material was removed in the middle section, but as was stated earlier, a local machine shop would have no problem.

Hey , Thanks for the picture blow up. Simple peice to make. :beer:
 
So I just received my 1980 FJ40 from the shop and reupholstered the seats and could use some more legroom as I'm 6'6' tall. The mud search is down right now and after looking on line for extensions I can across this thread.

I had contemplated have some made and had basically came up with the same design mentioned above.

Are these still available somewhere?

thanks
 
So I just received my 1980 FJ40 from the shop and reupholstered the seats and could use some more legroom as I'm 6'6' tall. The mud search is down right now and after looking on line for extensions I can across this thread.

I had contemplated have some made and had basically came up with the same design mentioned above.

Are these still available somewhere?

thanks
@landtank
You can have mine. I bought some stock seat brackets and will be removing this driver side extension in the coming months.
51CA8923-B2D0-404B-BE60-FDE51358E228.jpeg
 
I did mine with some C-channel between the slider and and seat. Gives another 2-3" back which makes a world of difference (I am 6'2"). Also makes the seat maybe an inch higher, but that does not bother me and in fact helps the leg room. Here is a photo:

IMG_1129.JPG
 
I did mine with some C-channel between the slider and and seat. Gives another 2-3" back which makes a world of difference (I am 6'2"). Also makes the seat maybe an inch higher, but that does not bother me and in fact helps the leg room. Here is a photo:

View attachment 2137477
Did you mount the seat to the strut and then slid it on the slider or were you able to completely assemble it on a bench and then mount it in all in one piece? Thanks!
 

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