Builds Just had to treat myself for Halloween... 65 SWB

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Finally put the original tailgate chains on today that I sourced from @whitey45 a few years ago. The old generic chains were 9/16” bolts through holes drilled in the bed. I re-tapped the threads as they were not used for quite some time...

Original bolt...

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Tapped to 10 x 1.25


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Chains installed...


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I added the chain covers that @cppilot provided as well. Just need to cut and melt the ends of the rope. These and the seats are the nicest parts of the truck!


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Thanks to fellow mudders for helping out!
 
A little more progress today. Used the Eastwood brake flare tool to build a replacement brake line for the new booster location and a new hardline for the updated clutch master. Love this thing...


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I was able to keep the long front circuit brake line and just moved it to the new location. The rear circuit leading to the proportioning valve needed to be redone...


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Clutch line...

Not sure why I hate this blue so much.


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Pat continues to provide lots of necessary odds and ends that keep this project moving forward. Between he and Brett I think I’m only 1/3 owner now.

Some tube cut and fitted for the brake booster pivot. Fits the bushings perfectly. Here are the major components. Just need to weld on the tabs and pinpoint the proper location for optimum throw and function.

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He also tapped some tube at 10x1.25 to extend the brake pushrod...


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Here’s the comparison of my old homemade extension to clear the rib with the F135 vs the nice one done right for the angled booster required for the 3FE...


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Lots of adjustment with the new piece to get the pushrod in the right place. Just need to order a couple 10x1.25 nuts from Toyota as lock nuts.


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A little more progress on the booster bracket. Started with a couple cardboard templates and went from there...

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Tacked together...

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I have to remove the bottom bracket and cut it back some as it interferes with the booster. It will also need a hole to access the pin and cotter. Then need to finalize the throw of the tabs which determine the final placement of the pivot.

This thing has been tacked together, broken apart and tacked together nearly a half dozen times so it looks like s***. But once it’s ready to be welded my buddy will make it look all perty.
 
More progress...

First I measured how long the arms should be. Then attached them to the pushrods...

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Next I placed the pivot shaft in the location that seemed to provide the best throw for both the pedal pushrod and the booster pushrod and drilled through the upper brace. After a few more trial runs I settled on angle and height of each...


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After I was happy with the placement I tacked on the lower brace and drilled the bottom hole for the pivot bolt.


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I slotted a spot at the top to access the pin better...


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Final product less the finish welding...


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(Just realized the picture above doesn’t show the bottom brace bolt hole).


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I spoke to @cruiserbrett and I may double the thickness of the pivot arms as they get a ton of force on them. Otherwise I’m pretty happy with the outcome. Not that happy that I had to break it apart so many times and that it was 10+ hours of work... I mean fun.

:beer:

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Yeah it’s been a lot of work. The booster wouldn’t fit even if I cut the brace as the 3FE plenum sits pretty far outboard but I certainly took the hard road. I had a hard time pulling the trigger on the electric booster for $1200 so I figured I’d give it a shot. Plus this was a challenge.

I did end up redoing the pivots in 3/8...


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Thursday my welder buddy is dropping by to grab the bracket, pivot, fuel tee and a couple other loose items to be finished. He’s also going to look at the tranny hump to see how we should proceed on that.


You guys are right... definitely need to paint the clutch master.
 
Fuel Tee, disc brake booster bracket and pivot, accelerator cable mount and tranny hump all at the welder’s shop.

The tranny hump will probably be in stages since he doesn’t have access to the truck for fitment. He took the original for comparison but we discussed coming back a few times to make sure it’s right.

Found these 10x1.0 plugs for the intake. It’s not tapered like the vacuum port I took off but got a good 2 1/2 rotations before snug so I’m happy with that.


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List is getting much shorter. I need to paint the clutch master, build a small bracket to hold the accelerator cable away from the intake, attach booster and bleed brakes/clutch and then adjust. I’ll probably trailer it over to the exhaust shop soon after the brakes work.

Install tranny hump then fuel tank and seats. Weld a bolt to the rounded off rear diff drain plug and replace. Install small speedo extension and VSS. Top off all fluids and...

Then new ignition switch and wiring!



I’m sure I’m forgetting something.
 
3FE badge install:

First I pried the OEM badge that said EFI off using a thin paint scraper...

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Then I peeled the badge off and had to get rid of all the adhesive...

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Here’s what it looked like totally clean...

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Taped off for painting...


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I bought some red high temp engine block paint and also bought some 3M automotive adhesive to use for installation.


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We have tossed around the idea of a very thin red (or black) plastic backing to put underneath the waterjetted aluminum emblem but I decided to start with paint on the plenum. We may decide to add the backing plate as some people might want to use these badges on the front grill like some did with the originals.

Here’s the mounting surface painted...

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I put some of the 3M adhesive on the badge but the thickness caused it to sit up a little higher than I wanted. So I just used a very small amount of superglue on the back of the badge and then put it in place.

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I think black would look pretty good too.

I’ll keep an eye on it to make sure it stays put and whether the glue is affected by heat.
 
Dom, that's looking great. Keep going, you'll be there soon. Also, thanks for sharing your progress with all of us.
 

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