Build Just had to treat myself for Halloween... 65 SWB

[DomSmith]

This time I angled the inner piece away from the plenum...

Now the hole lined up ok to remove the bolt if I needed to access it that way. It should come off with a wrench though now...

 

[DomSmith]

Here’s where I left off for the night...

It fits. But the cap to the reservoir is literally 1/8” from the hood when it’s closed. I think I’ll try to figure out how to lower it a bit or shorten it up so it sits a tad inboard. I installed the booster plate up a bit higher because the pivot arms can’t line up horizontally and I thought a tad higher would work. It’s not great. I’m thinking I might look later this week to see if it can go below the pedal rod on the pivot.

I also will need to build the top and bottom plate and the pivot tube/bushings and tabs.

Fun!

 

[Michael B]

If at first you don't succeed ..................................

 

[cppilot]

Dom, remember this is..... Half the fun. Looking good !

 

[DomSmith]

If at first you don't succeed ..................................

Yes, for sure. I'm trying not to tac weld too much or it's hard to pull apart. I've had it popped apart 4-5 times now so it looks pretty bad. Once I have the final product I'll drop it at my buddies shop because he can actually weld and I can't.

If you look closely another issue I had was welding the booster mount plate with the extension pieces on the inboard side. I couldn't get the nuts on the booster that way so I had to pop it off and weld the plate on the outboard side so I had room for the nuts.

I may end up with the remote reservoir electric setup but just can't wrap my head around $1300....

 

[DomSmith]

Dom, remember this is..... Half the fun. Looking good !

Yes today was a good day. I like this stuff for sure and didn't feel rushed so it was good.

I may hit you up for a few part #'s when you get back from Kona...

 

[cppilot]

Just let me know after the 14th.

 

[DomSmith]

A few more test fit, hammer apart and re-work and frankenbooster is finally at a point I think I can move on to the pivot and tabs for booster operation. A long way to go but I’ll get there.

Clearance on the hood is almost 2” now that I’ve lowered the booster attachment piece...

I need some bushings, tubing, tabs, a bolt and top and bottom plates.

 

[DomSmith]

I also tackled the throttle today. I was expecting a nightmare but things went surprisingly well. After measuring throttle location on the floorboard I removed the original pedal and got to work.

I’m using a 73 FJ40 pedal and pad along with the cable from overseas previously mentioned. I was able to use the existing upper pedal hole for the bottom hole to mount the new pedal. I did have to drill a new hole for the upper mount hole. I also had to drill 3 new holes for the throttle cable and retainer. All in all it turned out pretty well. My alignment for the throttle cable wasn’t perfect so I did have to slot the pedal holes just a touch to line up the cable perfectly with the pedal.

Pedal position...

Obviously I need to put all the original bolts back in the holes that were removed when I took all the original linkage out. Here’s the 73 pedal attachment.

The cable attachment at the firewall is close to the exhaust so I’ll need to pull it out of the way and figure a way to help protect it from the heat...

The bracket holding the throttle cable end at the motor needs to be shortened by about 1 1/4” to allow mounting and adjustment.

The cable otherwise is a great length...

 

[DomSmith]

The tranny tunnel cover is going to be a project in itself. Thanks to Paul @3_puppies for the 74-78 FJ40 cover. It’s a pretty good fit to start considering.

 

[DomSmith]

It’s tall enough but will need some sheet metal work. This one was cut for a V8 so a patch will be needed there.

I’m also considering just making a clean cover piece for the transfer shift hole in case it’s needed in the future. I’m retaining the vacuum shift but I’d hate to patch that up nicely only to have a need for it later on.

There are quite a few mounting holes that line up so that helps. The new cover is wider in several spots and have some bumps up off the floor but not too bad honestly. I’ll talk to my sheetmetal guy to see what he suggests.


I drilled new firewall holes in the cover as the corners match but the center ones do not. This pic shows the original cover laying upside down inside the new cover (looking at the firewall holes)...

The old holes will get patched over as will the drain tube holes unless someone can think of a reason to leave them?

 

[DomSmith]

Tunnel comparison for those interested...

Thanks to @cruiserbrett for suggesting this tunnel as a good start.


Original FJ45 cover resting in the FJ40 cover...

Passenger side rises up away from the floorboard a bit...

Drivers side mostly sits flush but it’s wider so it covers one of the ribs in the floorboard which prevents it from sitting flush.

 

[DomSmith]

Last tunnel pic, drivers side rib interference...

 

[DomSmith]

No major progress as I’ve been stuck at work. Did get some stainless tubing from Pat to make a fuel return line for the EFI.

1/2” and 1/4”...

The 1/2” fuel vent tube will have this style return once I get it cleaned up and welded together...

Obviously the return tube will be pointed back down into the tank to (hopefully) prevent fuel from coming up out of the fill neck/cap at idle.

 

[cppilot]

Very nice work Dom, this thing will be on the road soon....

 

[DomSmith]

No real progress except collecting a few more parts.

Got some very cool tailgate chain covers from Mark (@cppilot). Just need to install the chains I got awhile back from @whitey45 and it will be sweet!

Also piecing together the pivot for the brake booster bracket. These are bushings, 1/2” bolt and washers/nut...

Also a few odd parts. Brake line, 10mm fittings and 12x1.25 rod for extending the pushrods...

I’m toying with the idea of just adding a non-boosted dual circuit master for now but the one I have on the shelf is a 1” bore from a 75 and I’m thinking I’d need something closer to 7/8 or 3/4 to work well unboosted.

 

[DomSmith]

VSS for the 3FE ECU from Jags That Run.

Part# 4 PRS-TOY

It’s a 4 pulse square wave sensor with the 22mm threads and tang drive...

 

[landcruisnman]

Gotta love the tang drive.

 

[DomSmith]

I know I’m all over the place on this thread but Pat @landcruisnman came up big again with some engine badges to replace the NLA “EFI” badge.

Just need to source some thin red/black/any color thin plastic to be cut to size and placed underneath these aluminum “3FE” badges that will show through from the bottom.


I bought the last EFI badge SOR had and we used it as a template. Original NLA badge on my 3FE...

Pat’s aluminum waterjetted 3FE badge with proper outer radius to match the plenum...

These can be polished or left as is. My plan is to run red or black background and polished 3FE badge. Might also be able to convince Pat to do a run of “EFI” to match the original as well. I’ll post up pics of the final product soon!

Thanks Pat!

 

[DomSmith]

Here’s one of the badges from Pat on the plenum with red electrical tape underneath it. I think the final product will be great.