Just get her drivable (11 Viewers)

[wngrog]

On the dissy oil. Looks like the o ring failed.

I’d ask for another from DUI and then I’d make a O
Ring for the base of the dissy where it hits the block. My DUI has one there

 

[onemanarmy]

On the dissy oil. Looks like the o ring failed.

I’d ask for another from DUI and then I’d make a O
Ring for the base of the dissy where it hits the block. My DUI has one there

So you have 2 orings? One in the groove (as I do) and one where I have a flat/paper gasket at the mating surface?

Thanks

 

[wngrog]

DUI has just one at the base.

 

[onemanarmy]

So got a new dizzy oring and a new ignition control module, and while replacing those items, this bit of spring fell out from under the rotor. Gonna see what AFI says about that. Can't be helping my low power issue.

 

[scrapdaddy]

It looks like one of the springs for the weights in your dist., that they welded up for you.

 

[onemanarmy]

So the springs aren't needed since the weights are welded?

Edit:. Called AFI and said the springs weren't needed. That broken piece should not have been in there.

We'll see!

 

[onemanarmy]

No go with the new ignition control module and cleaned out broken advance springs. Same issues.

Will be checking fuel pressure next!

 

[onemanarmy]

Checked fuel pressure.....between 10 and 11psi, which jives with the AFI information.

Might investigate re-timing it.

 

[NikP]

Does changing the base timing on the distributor have any effect? Set it 6-8 degrees advanced at idle. The computer advances it from wherever the base timing is set. It sounds like it's not advancing like it should and if you start with it advanced it might help isolate if this is a really timing advance issue.

What's your base timing set at?


I had an issue where my base timing was retarded a couple of degrees and it sounds similar.

 

[onemanarmy]

I don't know the exact degree the base timing is set at.

When I initially 'timed' it, I put the 7* BTDC bb on the timing line with piston 1 on compression stroke and put the distributor in, with the rotor pointed at the #1 spark plug wire post on the dizzy cap. It cranked up and ran, so I twisted the dizzy a bit to get a smooth, 700rpm idle.....and rolled on. All seemed pretty good for a while (No pinging, no backfires, smooth idle, no smoke or weird smells) then noticed it being down on power and occasional small backfires through the TBI about a year later.

I dont know how to nor did I follow any official timing set up when installing the AFI kit.

 

[NikP]

At least with mine, the computer expects base timing to be set at zero. Mine had drifted to 3 degrees BDC. It kept triggering my knock sensor and also seem to create sluggish response on acceleration.

I'd put a timing light on it so you know where you're at and then fiddle with it to see if it makes a difference. If it makes no difference, then it may be a fuel issue. Kinda of strange that it ran well then became an issue. I've also had a distributor spin on me while going down the road even though I thought it was tight. I'd try to see where your timing is just to put that aside. My two cents of course.


Get a timing light. Hook two leads to battery, then the remaining to number one spark plug wire. Start engine. Point at marks on crankshaft. See reading. Adjust as necessary.

 

[onemanarmy]

At least with mine, the computer expects base timing to be set at zero. Mine had drifted to 3 degrees BDC. It kept triggering my knock sensor and also seem to create sluggish response on acceleration.

I'd put a timing light on it so you know where you're at and then fiddle with it to see if it makes a difference. If it makes no difference, then it may be a fuel issue. Kinda of strange that it ran well then became an issue. I've also had a distributor spin on me while going down the road even though I thought it was tight. I'd try to see where your timing is just to put that aside. My two cents of course.


Get a timing light. Hook two leads to battery, then the remaining to number one spark plug wire. Start engine. Point at marks on crankshaft. See reading. Adjust as necessary.

You mean point light at mark on timing/inspection port at back of engine, correct?

Both injectors are firing, fuel pressure at 11 psi, clean fuel and fuel filter, brand new whisper quiet fuel pump...

 

[NikP]

You mean point light at mark on timing/inspection port at back of engine, correct?

Yes. My experience is with my Chevy motors so not exactly up familiar with the 1f or 2f motors. Yes, TDC mark on your flywheel. You have a Bump at 7 degrees below and a line at TDC. I'm not sure what your electronics think the starting point should so that might need to be determined. Either way it would be nice to know where you are before getting started.

 

[onemanarmy]

back at it...(1977 2F with AFI basic fuel injection kit with upgraded large cap distributor)

I retimed it.....timing mark at close to the BB with the dist rotor pointed at #1 cylinder TDC (with new dist o ring)

I have a new O2 sensor, new ignition control module in my large cap distributor, new fuel pump and filter, and new MAP sensor. Full, clean coolant and non-leaking radiator that is clean on the outside and was pressure checked, well 10 years ago now. 11 psi fuel pressure and fuel is spraying from both TBI injectors.

It will crank up and run great. It will sit and idle all day. It idles at 1100 rpm when cold and then once warmed up it drops to 700-800 rpm. Butter smooth. No smoke, no weird noises or smells. Doesn't overheat at idle. I can rev it up and down while in neutral just fine...so misses or stumbles.

However, once I put it in first gear and try to get going, it falls on its face. It backfires a bit through the 'carb' (TBI), and I have to give it lots of throttle while really feathering the clutch to get going. BUT, once it catches and gets rolling, as I hit 2k rpm, it does fine. It will rev as high as I want it to. I can get up through the gears no problem, all the way to 60-65 mph. Pulls as hard as a 40 year old 2F with 33 inch tires should.

The last, and most perplexing to me, is after about 10-15 mins of driving at 65 mph on flat ground on a 70* day, (everything is OK to this point), the temp starts to get hot and its WAY down on power. It will get close to the left side HOT mark and start spewing coolant. If I keep trying to drive it, it feels like it has 10hp. It just won't go. even worse if I hit stoplights, it tries to get hot quick and wants to cut off on me at idle, where before it will sit in my garage and idle for hours and never get hot, even to the halfway mark.

Any ideas? When I call AFI, they suspect timing issues, and since I can't tell them EXACTLY what my timing degrees are, they don't offer any advice (can't see the timing mark/BB while engine is running) Before I mothball it and gather parts for an LS swap, I am going to remove the thermostat and drive around. I don't think that will help my 'can't get going in first gear' problem, but may help my overheating? Feels like its running super lean.

thanks

 

[NikP]

Compression check? Easy to do and might confirm if you're even chasing the right problem.

 

[bobm]

I had a Fj40 that ran hot in the summer 80°+ that i pulled the t-stat every summer. I could never figure it out. New pump, new t-stat, flush rad and through block, still ran hot in summer! 11 psi?? Isnt that high??

 

[120mm]

Still sounds like spark isn't advancing, or isn't advancing correctly.

My 67 mustang with load o matic dizzy used to act the same way.

 

[onemanarmy]

10-12 psi is what AFI recommends. It has a return fuel line.

Yea...plan to do a compression check, have been putting it off due to it running fine otherwise, no weird smells, no using coolant or oil, and will run 70 mph (for a few minutes anyway) and pulls 'hard' when its not acting up.

No way for me to really tell what the timing is doing when i'm at speed, i don't think. It does SEEM timing related at some points.

Compression check then pulling T stat.

Just thinking out loud here....thanks

 

[onemanarmy]

So haven't done a compression check yet, but I did remove the Tstat to see if that helped. It did not. Still gets hot and way down on power after about 5 mins of driving. Like it won't accelerate at all, even floored in first gear and feathering the clutch. Feels like it's chained to a wall. When it's 'cold' and I first accelerate, it behaves normal.

So I checked timing again. I set the engine at TDC compression at cylinder 1, set the BB on the timing mark, and got the #1 plug wire as close as I could to the distributor rotor. Is this right? The number 1 plug wire on the cap lines up with the wires coming into the bottom of the dizzy.

My other concern is that I have very little adjustment on the dizzy....has anyone enlarged the adjustment cutout on a large cap HEI distributor?

 

[wngrog]

When my HEI gets that far cranked counter clockwise I’ll pull it and re-stab it and get myself some more room to work.

The HEI does not care where you start the sequence as long as #1 is where the needle is.

I like to do it the Toyota way and have it end up pointing at #5 but that’s not necessary as long as your wires are right and reach.

I’d pull the plugs and see what they look like. Maybe start with some new ones.