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Finally grabbed the blown engine from the seller in Twin Falls, via the help of a good friend.

1F-Home.jpg


I'd love to get it off the engine hoist and onto my engine stand, but to do so I need to pull the bell housing. As I understand it: to pull the bell housing I have to pull the flywheel... to pull the flywheel I have to pull the clutch...

Clutch.jpg


But to fully pull the clutch I suspect I need to rotate the flywheel slightly to reach all the bolts. Is this correct? If so I'm SOL because the motor is currently SEIZED. Hmm...

While I'm at it, what size is the nut on the front of the crankshaft pulley? This one:

Nut.jpg
 
What did you end up doing about getting the bellhousing off?

If you haven't gotten to nut yet, here's what I'd recommend (because I was in the same situation last month, seized engine):

-Pull head and all front accessory drive and crank pulley (so it doesn't weigh as much!)
-turn it on it's side (have a fluid catch ready !)
-pull oil pan
-un-bolt rods and remove rods and pistons
-undo main caps and pull crankshaft/flywheel/pressureplatetogether
-then it's easy to remove bellhousing!

That's if you can't get the pressure plate in current configuration... You might be able to
 
Hah! You just described my exact approach. I puzzled over it for some time, waiting in futility for penitrating oil to work. WIsh your post came about a week earlier ;).

The seized engine was due to a couple roached connecting rod bearings. Numbers two and five, if memory serves. The block, head, and camshaft all look great. It seems a shame but I'll probably recycle them to make some space in my garage :(.

In other news, got the radiator back from the repair shop. Despite looking grizzly it was actually in pretty good shape, apparently. One leak had to be repaired. It's now "clean" and sporting a shiny black paint job and ready to install.

Install will have to wait a week - headed down to Carlsbad, CA for work.
 
Also, @PabloCruise , the nut is a 46mm, or 1-13/16. I had to create a thread over in the 40/55 section to figure out how to pull it... didn't realize the accessory pulley could be (HAD to be) pulled prior to that nut. Doh!
 
DoubleNickels said:
Also, @PabloCruise , the nut is a 46mm, or 1-13/16. I had to create a thread over in the 40/55 section to figure out how to pull it... didn't realize the accessory pulley could be (HAD to be) pulled prior to that nut. Doh!
Click to expand...

Ah! Perhaps 54mm is for knuckle rebuild?
 
Yep, I believe that's correct. Two sizes you seldom need, but can't do without when the time comes!
 
Slow and steady wins the race, right?

I got slightly distracted when a running 2F engine popped up locally that I went and pulled. Blown head gasket but running, I thought it a good purchase in case the "good" engine I'm banking on is, in reality, no bueno. $100, why not? Thanks to my brother-in-law Zach (@RogerThat ) for lending a hand, and once again to @ridefastflyfar for lending his engine hoist!

Said engine solved another problem for me, too. I'm converting to a big cap dizzy and needed the dented side cover. Problem solved. Now, just need to figure out how to wire in this setup. Any help is appreciated:

PHOTO_20160711_084200.jpg


I need to dive in and better understand how the engine makes sparks, in general.

I also reinstalled the repaired radiator and all new coolant lines, pulled the timing cover to install a new front seal and gasket, and installed my alternator. I opted to use the (somewhat lame) 1F alternator mounting bracket on the engine's driver-side. This allows me to keep the wiring as is, and also keeps the passenger-side free for the A.C. Compressor ;).

Before firing it up, I decided to drain and pull the gas tank and replace all the flexible fuel hoses. The "gas" that came out of it looked more like flat Coca-Cola, but thankfully the tank is rust-free. I'll slosh some acetone around in the tank along with a handful of nuts and reinstall tonight. Wish me luck.

PHOTO_20160711_084121.jpg
 
DoubleNickels said:
I'm converting to a big cap dizzy and needed the dented side cover. Problem solved. Now, just need to figure out how to wire in this setup. Any help is appreciated:
Click to expand...
I’ll dig up the wiring schematics when I have more time.

dizzy.jpg
 
Thanks @J Mack . I'm slowly piecing this together. So here's how I understand it:

1) Old-school points-equipped (mechanical) distributor: Mechanically opens and closes the "Low-Tension" 12V circuit via contact breaker points driven off the distributor's central cam. When the Low-Tension circuit opens, at the same time the ignition coil dumps it's super-crazy-amped-up "High-Tension" juice through the distributor cap, down through the rotor and into the spark plug wire where it's pointed.

2) Newer electronic ignition: Essentially uses an integrated circuit to switch from the Low-Tension to High-Tension circuits, dictating when to dump the High-Tension juice into the rotor and through the spark plug wire.

If this understanding is correct, then the term "crank position sensor" suddenly makes sense since the igniter's integrated circuit (IC) needs to have some clue as to when the pistons are at Top Dead Center. So my question:

On these 2F engines, is there a true crank position sensor, or does the big-cap distributor somehow have the sensor built in and it needs to feed that signal to the igniter?
 
Answering myself here, I'd be willing to bet that item number (5), the "Signal Generator", handles this timing mystery. :) Cool.
 
DoubleNickels said:
or does the big-cap distributor somehow have the sensor built in and it needs to feed that signal to the igniter?
Click to expand...

Should be a magnetic pickup in the distributor.
This is a photo of a Chevy but yours should look similar.
images
 
Still a little stumped on wiring, but getting closer. I put up a thread in the main 40/55 section to get as many eyeballs on it as possible:

Ignition Upgrade - Wiring Help Please!


Regarding the gas tank... pretty darn sludgy. The acetone rinse didn't do much to remove the varnish. Instead I took it to a local radiator shop yesterday to have it cooked. The shop said it looked grimy but rust-free and should clean up OK - I'll have them re-line it while there, might as well.
 
Will your engine be ready for a test fire once you finish your wiring? Remember to pull your oil pressure sender and with the dizzy wire pulled crank'er til oil pukes out the sender hole.
 
I hadn't thought of that, excellent idea. This is my first attempt at reviving an old car, really appreciate such insight.
 
a big n screwdriver cut off and chucked in a drill works to prime the pump and bearings thru the dizzy hole just like SBC, but you might not get any flow to the top depending upon timing position of the camshaft- don't panic if you are trying to veirfy flow by looking at the rockers and you get no oil; you should still see some pressure gauge at least, and you'll be good. on the other hand, the way I caught the bass ackwards head gasket install by my machinist was by being stubborn enough to attempt to verify flow by priming at about 16 different engine rotation positions. as long as YOU KNOW the gasket is on right, and the rocker support have not been mixed up on the shaft, you shouldn't have to physically verify top end flow....HTH
 
of course, if you're using a pre 74 F motor, then disregard...doh!
 
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