Joining the Pig Pen!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Funny you should ask... I was on the verge of ordering a rebuild kit for the 1983 FJ60 carb I've been futzing with, when local amigo @ridefastflyfar made me an offer I couldn't refuse on a brand-new aftermarket Chinese carb. The carb had a few stripped holes I had to remedy, otherwise it was way more appealing than having to rebuild mine. Plug and play, check it out:

20160804_232918.jpg


Notice it's lacking a bunch of the smog ports, which is a bonus!

Ironically I've not yet tried to start it after this install... I finished it about 11:30 pm and, although quite tempting, resisted the urge to wake up my family with the noise. The truck is parked maybe 12 feet from my daughter's bedroom!

I'm out of town this weekend but should be able to work on it tomorrow night. Really confident it'll idle better. Fingers crossed.
 
Hope it works peferct. If not you can get Japanese carb rebuild kits in a couple days from Cruiser Outfitters. I'm sure if you took your time you could get your Aisan humming like a sewing machine again. Pinhead has some good Youtube how-to's.
 
Agreed! I still plan to rebuild that carb, as I've never done that and am looking forward to the learning experience. However it's nice that I'm not dead in the water in the meantime.
 
remember to plug the return line...

Yes! Great reminder, thanks. I opted to "plug" it further down, removing the bent-to-hell section of hard line in the process. I'll likely go even further and remove all the return fuel line, plugging it right at the entry to the fuel tank.
 
chinese carb waaaay better than webber(flame on, webber users). you should learn the carb rebuild and wrap up the Aisin for a later date- they can't be beat.
 
fj60 carb is the bomb, BTW. KEEP IT. at least, don't get rid of it...
 
fj60 carb is the bomb, BTW. KEEP IT. at least, don't get rid of it...
 
DHO!!!
 
SO APPARENTLY.... I just snagged one the remaining TWO oem windshields from Toyota. I saw the windshield listed as "Available" on a Toyota parts website... I didn't believe it since this and other forums claim they are NLA. I called my local dealership, et voila. They told me there were two remaining in the entire United States so... I bought one. $450. This was two days ago and I just got word that it has arrived - headed to grab it this evening.

It is a good day. My current windshield has a 22-cal bullet hole right at driver eye-level.
 
And here I thought, I had the last remaining 'new' windshield...at least that is what Cdan told me when I bought mine a few years ago.

They must say that to get us suckers to buy them. "Hurry, only two left in the U.S.! Buy it today! You'll never find another one!"
 
All right, threw a bit more effort at it. Managed to take my first spin around the block even! My daughter and wife joined me as well, all cuddled into these rad bench seats.

Pros:
  1. Brakes work!
  2. Seems to run pretty smooth despite not being timed properly (still on my list) nor valves adjusted.

Cons:
  1. Took some work to get it started. I suspect this is related to timing and the idle/choke nuances.
  2. I'm still jumping the igniter assembly straight from my battery positive (+) terminal. This is hokey and I need to fix the not-so-hot wire that should be feeding it properly. This may be contributing to the starting issues as well.
  3. Clutch is shot! Either that or it's installed completely wacky... and/or I have a major rear main or transmission input leak that's completely dousing the internals. It was obvious my clutch was heating up (smell) and I just couldn't feel any power connecting to the wheels despite increase in RPMs.

I haven't pulled the clutch cover to inspect the clutch and flywheel face. The clutch was one of the few things pre-installed when I started this project, so there's a chance the previous owner did something goofy but I seriously doubt it. Considering this is my first project with a manual transmission and clutch, is there any way to incorrectly install the clutch and see these symptoms?

I spent the second half of the evening chasing down the wiring short issue for my igniter. This led me to soon rip out the entire aftermarket radio as well as the glove box. There are several quick-splice junctions for the radio that may be causing a short. Right at the tail end of the evening I found a huge mouse/rat nest between my glove box and the firewall. This particular area is right where the igniter's wire bundle passes through, so there's a chance that little bastard's home furnishings and nibbling habits are causing a short.

-Calvin
 
Good feeling to get it to move under it's own power.

The clutch slave rod is adjustable, as is the rod that attaches the pedal to the master cylinder. Also, if the clutch cover bolts weren't tightened all the way, that could cause the clutch to slip (don't ask me how I know).
 
Good feeling to get it to move under it's own power.

The clutch slave rod is adjustable, as is the rod that attaches the pedal to the master cylinder. Also, if the clutch cover bolts weren't tightened all the way, that could cause the clutch to slip (don't ask me how I know).

Ooooh, that's a good, quick thing to check (the bolts). I'll do that, thanks Dan.
 
Woot! The pig lives. It's been about a month since I've posted. My work took me away for about half of that, and I managed to sneak away for a few days of vacation somewhere in there... regardless, I've thrown enough time at the project to successfully do my first hot laps around the neighborhood!

First, the clutch was/is fine. But let's start at the beginning.

1) Tuning the carb, I learned that I could get it to purr like a cat when idling, but any acceleration caused idle to nose-dive and the car would stall. This led me to investigate vacuum leaks and the accelerator pump/circuit. I'm glad I checked! Of the six bolts holding the manifold to the block, two were missing and a third was only finger tight. I didn't have a vacuum leak, I had a yawning vacuum cave. Thanks to my brother-in-law @RogerThat for lending a hand that evening.

2) The Chinese carb came back off for a rebuild. Third, maybe fourth time rebuilding it. The buggered hole for accessing the second main jet, the hole I had to tap and fit with a pipe plug, was still leaking. So I had to tap to a massive 1/2-20 hole. Good lord. Sealed it up, though.


Chinese Carb.jpg


3) Despite the carb rebuild and the fixed manifold leak, the bastard still wouldn't handle a sharp twist on the accelerator linkage. If slowly ramping up from low rpm to very high rpm, the carb would respond just fine. The fact that only a quick turn of the accelerator linkage would kill it leads me to believe the accelerator pump may have been to blame (@ridefastflyfar actually suggested this first). At this point, considering the number of times I've pulled the Chinese carb off, it was time to go back to an OEM carb. I had most of the carb rebuild kit's components remaining, and I used them to rebuild this little gem (off a 1984 FJ60). So many little levers and diaphragms, but this is getting less intimidating with every carb rebuild:

Aisan Carb.jpg


Curiously, when rebuilding the Aisan carb I found that the Pump Outlet plunger appeared to be "peened" in place. I wasn't sure if this would cause an issue or not, but proceeded with the rebuild and re-installed.

Pump Outlet.jpg


4) Good lord my timing was off. And I mean WAY off. Despite lining up TDC with the BB on the flywheel (and yes assuring the compression stroke) like four or five times this summer, I was still off two teeth on the distributor rotation. I'm thinking this may be a result of an early 2F engine, a de-smogged setup, and a late 2F (uber-fancy) carburetor. No idea. All I know is that when I got the timing set correctly, using a vacuum gauge to detect lean drop-off as I've read... suddenly the car runs. RUNS. My clutch wasn't shot, my timing was so far off that increasing RPM was virtually impossible.

5) The green pig is gone. I'll draw some gasps of disapproval, I'm sure, but I've sold the body, glass, and frame to a buddy here in Boise. Having already scavenged anything of value from the engine compartment, body trim, and interior, I was holding onto it in the event something is awry with the red one's axles, drive lines, transfer case, etc. My buddy will return all those items to me once he's swapped his 3/4 ton Chevy running gear underneath. His plans are to build some sort of franken beast with 37" tires, bucket seats, probably some diamond plating, custom bumpers and roll bars... he keeps using the term "roachy", which I've interpreted to mean an awesomely over-the-top crusty yet capable desert rat. I'm glad to support such shenanigans. Adios, piggy verde:


Au Revoir Piggy.jpg


So what's next? Dunno yet. I'm over the moon that it's finally really running. I was terrified that the compression was low enough to warrant a full rebuild, something my budget would not allow. So I'll just celebrate this for a while, start puttering around the neighborhood and planning next steps.

... woot!
 
Nice work! Do you have it licensed and insured? You ready to take it out and do some trails?
 
October 15th Owyhees!
 
Ok, I could use some help ID'ing some steering parts. I did some trading recently and acquired this pile of parts, all of which were pulled off someone's FJ55:

PHOTO_20160925_130432.jpg


I was under the assumption it was a Saginaw power steering conversion that should bolt in "easily" to my rig. The closer I look, however, I'm thinking the box is neither Saginaw nor power. Looks like an OEM manual 55 box. Can anyone confirm? Some pics:

PHOTO_20161002_160554.jpg

PHOTO_20161002_160537.jpg

PHOTO_20161002_160515.jpg

PHOTO_20161002_160506.jpg
 
You have what appears to be a Sag pump.

Are there any ports on that box? If no, then you have a manual box.

I like the 60 Series PS box (Scout is similar). I did a big-ass write up on it when I did my 40. Similar for Pig, 'cept for lots of folks just sleeve the frame and mount flush. Link here if you want to get bored:
FJ60 Power Steering Conversion for FJ40 while keeping air pump
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom