Is this '94 FZJ80 beyond reasonable repair?
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- Thread starter
- #22
OP here.
Thanks everyone for your input.
The general consensus I gather is that I have two options:
1. Leave the truck to rot in its rusty grave and avoid a world of suffering. Possibly use it as a parts truck if I get my hands on a [less rusty] cruiser in driving condition.
2. Be prepared to spend lots and lots of time and money on it that I will never get back.
I think my game plan for the winter months will be the following:
-Carefully go over the truck and really evaluate what I would need to do to get it in driving condition
-Delve into the factory manuals and get an idea of what kinds of repairs I will be able to do with my tools and resources (I have access to lots of tools)
-Estimate the total cost of the parts
-Double the estimate
-Research what cruisers are out there for a comparable amount of money
Thanks again.
Thanks everyone for your input.
The general consensus I gather is that I have two options:
1. Leave the truck to rot in its rusty grave and avoid a world of suffering. Possibly use it as a parts truck if I get my hands on a [less rusty] cruiser in driving condition.
2. Be prepared to spend lots and lots of time and money on it that I will never get back.
I think my game plan for the winter months will be the following:
-Carefully go over the truck and really evaluate what I would need to do to get it in driving condition
-Delve into the factory manuals and get an idea of what kinds of repairs I will be able to do with my tools and resources (I have access to lots of tools)
-Estimate the total cost of the parts
-Double the estimate
-Research what cruisers are out there for a comparable amount of money
Thanks again.
Don't take this as arrogant, but if you are thinking of 'delving into the factory manuals' to figure out if you can tackle this. You shouldn't waste your time. Seriously. This SUV, while great, has TONs of salvageable parts on it. Part it out. Find a rust free 80 (they even exist here in CO too, I have one) book a flight and get it.
You will be much better off having a solid platform to build from. If you just need a runnabout that is meh, then ok. But seriously, this rig should be considered little more than that.
You will be much better off having a solid platform to build from. If you just need a runnabout that is meh, then ok. But seriously, this rig should be considered little more than that.
The problem is these trucks are at the age where you can find examples in better shape than this one.give it 15 or 20 years and people will be like hey that's totally fixable cruiser the way it sits now.if it were me I would find a better example and use this one as a donor since you have little to nothing in it
- Thread starter
- #25
Yeah I am currently researching cruisers on craigslist outside of the rust/salt belt and not on the coast. I'm sure any truck in my price range is going to need work, and as many others have stated, this would make a good parts truck.
Yep... Mine was totaled, $8500 check and I've only spent $3.7k so far to fix it (new axle, brakes, alignment, random s***) -- and $1200 of that was the new rotors/pads/associated hardware. I'll have about $4000 left over after new tires... $3000 if I got the body work done.
This is the only sound advice... part it, what you keep as extras and can't sell keep as parts/donor parts if you take on another 80.
This is not worth the $ to see if it works.
Also, I don't know much about cars, but it sounds like this job may be too much for you, as it's too involved.
as they say in the south... "know when to fold 'em"
This is part of the problem there are very few "good" Cruisers in the rust belt/coast. Then add your "price range" for a good Cruiser in another location, you could be in for a whole range of other problems, then add travel/shipping ect.... Your back at fixing something?
When I bought mine there were 3 to choose from in the whole area of New England. In the end I'm fixing rust and it doesn't bother me.
Not saying it's not possible, it's just adds to the whole process. Either way your going to fix something on a 20 something vehicle
keep in mind most that are saying it's junk, are pretty far from the rust belt.
seriously the frame rust is just flaky surface rust. there is no strength compromised there. i will concede that the rear upper hatch is pretty far gone, however that is a pretty common point for rust.
seriously the frame rust is just flaky surface rust. there is no strength compromised there. i will concede that the rear upper hatch is pretty far gone, however that is a pretty common point for rust.
I DD one worse than this. Get it running -then drive it. This is nothing for a Midwest/east coast RUSTbelt vehicle 22 years old. It appears it may have been parked in the winter with salt on it. Rain can't get under it if it's parked. Start off getting it fired up well enough to put into gear and move-then go from there. Don't apply the parking brake-it may stick on. You can get another later if you like it and keep this one for a winter driver.
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I'm in the rust belt & I've been restoring japanese vehicles for 20 years. This example is not worth saving. Scrap it, part it out or use it as a winter beater. If you really want a rust free example search on the west coast for one. From the pnw down to san diego. Starting with a rust free base is much more cost effective and less hassle.
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That little bit of surface rust is nothing. What a bunch of nancies. That truck looks better than all of the 80s I've ever seen in Michigan.
If it was $2k people in MI would clean it up and run it.
If it was $2k people in MI would clean it up and run it.
If it was in MI they would put it up on blocks, because it needs brake lines, and it would sit in their driveway for the next 10 yrs while they "Get to It". I'd rather Run Hillary's Campaign, than try to make this a "Runner".
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Brake lines are easy. That thing would be on the road.
my midwestern rig is rust free compared to that and every bolt i touch snaps. i wouldn't give more than $200 for that and i would use it strictly for parts. no way i'd want to spend time drilling all that crap out and replacing it.
This is surface rust:
Much more than that and it starts to become corrosion. Everyone has their own opinions on what level of rust is acceptable and thats fine. In my own opinion and from what I've seen I completely disagree with you if you think that the OP's level of rust is acceptable as a good platform.
The OP's frame is heading toward a level of corrosion that begins to degrade the strength of the chassis (think about getting into an accident with a weekend frame, not good). Also its a level of rust that makes usually easy tasks difficult, frustrating and burdensome. Bolts will not come off without breaking the studs, and replacing studs not only is a pain in the ass but it is also time consuming.
As I stated earlier, if you want to run it around and bash on it its not a bad rig. If you want a 80 that you can build out for off roading and love for a long time I'd look elsewhere.
- Thread starter
- #38
I'm going to start with getting it running, and go from there. I have nothing to lose so if I find that every bolt snaps, etc. it's not like I made an investment in the truck. The chassis itself looks pretty good to me, it's everything else that's rusted to crap.
The most I'm looking for out of it is a truck I can beat on.
Give'er hell. From those angles the integrity of the frame looks fine. Bolts and studs will still be a problem.
