Is it possible to do a $0 2F--3B swap in a 40? Follow along and see! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter MrMoMo
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Thought you were doing this for $0, been speeding a little I see?
kling-on
Kool Arrow
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The swaps free the restoration isn't 
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
- Thread starter
- #104
Haha, yeah so far the swap has cost me $123 (according to page 1) but I suppose two things come out of this...
1) Can you do a swap for $0? Probably
2) But it's likely to lead into a frame off restoration, which you most definitely can not do with out spending money!
Now... I do still have a bunch of stuff that's parted out from the 60 that I can sell off to cover that $123.... To hopefully cover some of the associated resto/mod costs!
1) Can you do a swap for $0? Probably
2) But it's likely to lead into a frame off restoration, which you most definitely can not do with out spending money!
Now... I do still have a bunch of stuff that's parted out from the 60 that I can sell off to cover that $123.... To hopefully cover some of the associated resto/mod costs!
kling-on
Kool Arrow
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Wish you were closer I'd buy the snorkel off your 60 
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
- Thread starter
- #106
@kling-on - a few pics for you since I can't seem to find anything posted from when I did this... I think in 2013... ¿?
Turbo oil supply - pull the sending unit and put in a 1/8" NPT short nipple, then a T. Put the sender in the end of the T, and your oil supply to the turbo on the side if the T. The block is threaded BSP, not NPT but it seals fine.
Do it the easy way and get an NPT male to JIC male and then go to your hydraulic hose.... Or put about 15 more bits in to do it the way I did (think I couldn't quite find the part I wanted or something!)
Another angle:
Then the JIC bulkhead fitting for the return, just sandwiching the oil pan, with a 45* JIC hose end.
Thin little adaptor plate to go from the manifold to the CT-26 (from EBay) had to machine some bolt heads down a little if I recall:
And the stainless 3" down pipe with EGT probe mounting flange I got from EBay (made the blanking plate to adapt to my probe out of regular 1/4" steel):
Turbo oil supply - pull the sending unit and put in a 1/8" NPT short nipple, then a T. Put the sender in the end of the T, and your oil supply to the turbo on the side if the T. The block is threaded BSP, not NPT but it seals fine.
Do it the easy way and get an NPT male to JIC male and then go to your hydraulic hose.... Or put about 15 more bits in to do it the way I did (think I couldn't quite find the part I wanted or something!)
Another angle:
Then the JIC bulkhead fitting for the return, just sandwiching the oil pan, with a 45* JIC hose end.
Thin little adaptor plate to go from the manifold to the CT-26 (from EBay) had to machine some bolt heads down a little if I recall:
And the stainless 3" down pipe with EGT probe mounting flange I got from EBay (made the blanking plate to adapt to my probe out of regular 1/4" steel):
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
- Thread starter
- #107
Supply and return lines at the turbo...
Another angle (had to use the double 90* fittings to clear the wastegate actuator:
I didn't connect the coolant lines, just capped them off with JIC caps from Princess Auto. I prefer fewer places to fail where coolant can get into my oil... Have not had any issues running this way, just tune the fuel to get good EGT's:
(Also a good view of the slotted manifold)
If you want any other pics or info let me know :cD
Another angle (had to use the double 90* fittings to clear the wastegate actuator:
I didn't connect the coolant lines, just capped them off with JIC caps from Princess Auto. I prefer fewer places to fail where coolant can get into my oil... Have not had any issues running this way, just tune the fuel to get good EGT's:
(Also a good view of the slotted manifold)
If you want any other pics or info let me know :cD
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
- Thread starter
- #108
BACK FROM GALVANIZING!!!!
Got home after work and had to crank the hot water through the half frozen garden hose, but got a good rinse on the frame before I brought it into the shop. Figured I should at least try to start out by getting most of the road grit and salt off!!!
Oh man is that sweet! Not perfect for sure, but pretty damn good! There will be a few spots I'll have to hit with a wire brush and a spray can of cold galvanizing, I guess the liquid zinc can't get into all the pockets but 99% of it is covered!
Also a few spots where it looks like some zinc dripped on it when it was cold, and it seems to flake off, but the coating under it is fine so just some minor clean up for those areas. I guess this sort of marks a turning point, it should mostly be re-assembly from here, with the exception of the body (big exception!). But at least now I can get back to a rolling chassis!
The guys doing the galvanizing "temporarily misplaced" a few of the smaller parts so they were not ready with the frame, but apparently they are located now and I should have them next week.
Got home after work and had to crank the hot water through the half frozen garden hose, but got a good rinse on the frame before I brought it into the shop. Figured I should at least try to start out by getting most of the road grit and salt off!!!
Oh man is that sweet! Not perfect for sure, but pretty damn good! There will be a few spots I'll have to hit with a wire brush and a spray can of cold galvanizing, I guess the liquid zinc can't get into all the pockets but 99% of it is covered!
Also a few spots where it looks like some zinc dripped on it when it was cold, and it seems to flake off, but the coating under it is fine so just some minor clean up for those areas. I guess this sort of marks a turning point, it should mostly be re-assembly from here, with the exception of the body (big exception!). But at least now I can get back to a rolling chassis!
The guys doing the galvanizing "temporarily misplaced" a few of the smaller parts so they were not ready with the frame, but apparently they are located now and I should have them next week.
So shiney
looks 110 per cent better than it did when it was going to the galvanizer ... looking forward to seeing it as the most important part of the rolling stock ...
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All the Canadian spec Fj45s I've seen have FF axles... Including the donor for my 40.
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
- Thread starter
- #112
Well, a bit of a buzz kill, I'm probably going to send the frame out again to get re-stripped and re-galvanized..... At a different place. There are quite a few spots inside the frame that just didn't seem to get coated... They got stripped, but for some reason the zinc just didn't get everywhere and now there is a fresh coat of rust.... Not the way to start things out. Hopefully it's worth the hassle, but I just can't bring myself to go to all this work, and start with a frame that is not what I want it to be.....
I guess another month or so at this point won't be a deal breaker... I'd rather have it right. :c(
I guess another month or so at this point won't be a deal breaker... I'd rather have it right. :c(
Oh no...but I guess you're right do it right at the start or there is no point.
Is it possible to take it back and see if they will fix the bits they missed?
Is it possible to take it back and see if they will fix the bits they missed?
makes sense ... its all important, but getting the inside of the frame right is paramount ...
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
- Thread starter
- #115
Place that did it is pretty much saying tough, that's how it came out, that's what you get. I need to do some pondering - not sure if trying it again is worth the hassle, or if I should just work a wire brush into the spots that didn't get it, and spray galvanize it. Would suck to wait another month and just end up with the same thing from a different shop....
Maybe spray a rust converter in there? Use something like POR15 as an undercoat before a chassis paint ??
kling-on
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Por15 over it all and run it .... Love the pics too thx gotta start saving parts to do mine
You won't regrett the delay 20 years from now. I sandblasted and painted mine 20 years ago... Only wish I could have galvanized it (or used better paint). Trust me you'll not want to redo it, ever.
Did you get the frame acid dipped? That galvanizing doesn't look good from the pics you provided. Once you get a good galvanizing job I would cover the frame with POR15 as a top coat.
MrMoMo
That's not rust, it's Canadian patina...
- Thread starter
- #120
Frame was acid dipped twice before they galvanized it. Most of the outside surface is pretty good, and even most of the inside surface. The areas that are not so good were definitely clean of all the old rust by the acid dip, it's just that the zinc didn't take in a few areas. I can only assume it was air bubbles trapped inside the frame or the flux dip didn't quite get all the acid off or something. I'm going to try to rig up a wire brush on my sawzall and see if I can't hit the spots inside that got missed. I have read quite a bit about "cold galvanizing" and though not the same as hot dip, it may be more than sufficient in these areas. While I do understand that the bond strength and coating thickness is quite a bit higher with hot dip, the life span and adhesion strength appears to be more than sufficient for the cold process if applied properly. The basic purpose of the zinc is to be anodic to the steel. As long as there is zinc consistently present on the surface, it will galvanically protect the steel from corroding. It does not matter if this is applied hot or cold, the galvanic protection is provided regardless. Hot dip provides a thicker layer of protection. I can do that by applying multiple coats. The downside to cold galvanizing is the surface finish is not consistent with the hot galvanizing, but inside the frame that won't matter.
I'm still undecided as to which way I will go with this, a suppose after doing a few tests with the cold product, I can still decide to strip and re-dip.
As for an overcoat with POR-15... Well, no - but I do have a gallon of chassis saver that was my original intent. So, I may still go that way for an additional layer of protection, but that's hard to shoot on the inside of the frame (and besides, then no one would see that it's galvanized!)
I'll add some close up shots of both the good areas and the bad so you folks can see a little more of what I am talking about.
I'm still undecided as to which way I will go with this, a suppose after doing a few tests with the cold product, I can still decide to strip and re-dip.
As for an overcoat with POR-15... Well, no - but I do have a gallon of chassis saver that was my original intent. So, I may still go that way for an additional layer of protection, but that's hard to shoot on the inside of the frame (and besides, then no one would see that it's galvanized!)
I'll add some close up shots of both the good areas and the bad so you folks can see a little more of what I am talking about.
