Is it possible to do a $0 2F--3B swap in a 40? Follow along and see! (2 Viewers)

[MrMoMo]

Hey PJ40, I wouldn't say the body removal is necessary, but it's a lot easier to see what is going on. I mainly removed the body so I could paint the chassis and do some repairs while I was at it. That wasn't the original plan! Im hoping too adapt a small disc or drum brake to the output of the transfer case, similar to what was on the old T-case. I have heard that some early ATV set ups are mechanical drum and easy to modify to work. I'm near Kingston ON - about half way between Toronto and Montreal.

 

[kling-on]

9 1/4 in from frame to block at front of mount And is 3 in tall in middle of mount

 

[kling-on]

 

[PJ40]

Is that transmission crossmember from a 42 or a 60? Ill be buggin you lots im sure, let me know if youd prefer pm or replies to thread.

 

[PJ40]

Is that transmission crossmember from a 42 or a 60? Ill be buggin you lots im sure, let me know if youd prefer pm or replies to thread.

 

[MrMoMo]

Thanks Kling-on, perfect for me to compare to. I'm heading out to the shop now. I think my engine BLOCK mount (not the one on the frame) is longer than yours.

Pj40, the cross member is from the '84 BJ60 the engine came out of. It needs to be narrowed up a bit, but I'm pretty sure it's going to work. So far looks like I need to take 3-4 inches of width out. The cross member mounts are also from the 60. Ask away, I would hope that any questions you might have that I can answer might help someone else who finds the thread later, trying to do the same thing.

 

[MrMoMo]

Ok, so some decent progress tonight, and either I'm a F*%kin genius or I'm going to totally mess this up... :cD

Mounted the drivers side mount, then shifted the cherry picker to just pick the passenger side. Threw my mount on the frame with some C-clamps and this is where I sit... (Notice the long mount I mentioned previously)

Ain't gonna work like that.

It was at this point I had my brilliant idea... (Statement pending - Yet to be determined, maybe @crushers can tell me if I'm off my rocker here..<though I will first swear that any earlier references to this being a "restoration" were truly meant as a "resto-mod" ;cD >)

The 2F mount is significantly closer to the frame, so I figured I'd give it a test fit... And BINGO! So could it really be as simple as this... If you have a 3B from a 40 or 70 series with the skinny block mount, use the fat 3B frame mount, if you have a 3B from a 60 series use the old 2F mount... (?). The angles are not perfectly identical between the block mount and the fame mount but the rubber isolator seems to take care of it.

Everything seems to be lining up...

The block mount does have a second hole about 1/2" further in... Would need to be drilled slightly larger but might provide for slightly better placement of the isolator...

Even have clearance between the starter and the manual steering box... (Id like more, but would feel safe with a 300A fuse on the main feed cable)

Output flanges are lined up... (Pink String goes front to rear axle flange)

Engine is sitting pretty level (but I think could stand to go up a little, the fan doesn't quite get into the shroud)


It should be noted I am very low down with the camera here, I wanted to try to see the level of the oil pan compared to the frame cross member...

Even the cardboard body template appears to be suggesting that things are still in the right place for the shifters to poke through...

So am I just $h\t lucky, way off target - or did I just figure out a trick for this swap??

 

[MrMoMo]

Oh, and I'm officially going to call it a DIESEL now!

No more cherry picker...

 

[kling-on]

It looks a lot more to the drivers side then mine... What's the frame to block measurement? Great progress

 

[kling-on]

Also looking for starters for mine I found out there are a lot of
Different orientations for 3b starters and a BJ42 put the motor and solenoid above each other

 

[MrMoMo]

It looks a lot more to the drivers side then mine... What's the frame to block measurement? Great progress

What part of the frame were you measuring to? Inside edge? When I measured where I think you did, I got about 9-1/2 to the center of the frame rail.... (?)

Also, I noticed that your mounts are further back on the frame rails.... (Based on the rivet locations). Is your tranny a split case? Do your shifters line up?

 

[kling-on]

What part of the frame were you measuring to? Inside edge? When I measured where I think you did, I got about 9-1/2 to the center of the frame rail.... (?)

Inside edge of frame right in front of the motor mount to the flat spot In front of the bolt bung in the block ... Sounds like you about right ... I guess the pics make it look off

 

[kling-on]

On your turbo manifold ... Is that the one that you have to open up the lower holes to match up yo the head ??

 

[MrMoMo]

On your turbo manifold ... Is that the one that you have to open up the lower holes to match up yo the head ??

Yep, when I got it all the work was already done, the upper holes are slotted on an angle, and then a plate goes across the top bolt holes before you put the nuts on the studs. I'll try to grab a pic of it for you. Works great, I've been running it for about 2 years

 

[kling-on]

Cool thx .... On your inter cooler for the 40 what are you running? I have been looking at a Volvo 240 but cant find used cause I'm cheap lol

 

[MrMoMo]

When it was in the 60 I ran it through a VW/Audi intercooler, there should be plenty in the wrecking yards! It's not huge and I'm not sure if it gained me a lot, but it would work as a parts trap for preventing grenaded turbo parts being ingested...

Looks like the first one to come up when you google image search VW Audi intercooler...

http://images.gasgoo.com/MiMwMDRfMD...4-a6-vw-passat-intercooler-058145805b-g-h.jpg

 

[MrMoMo]

Well, as always, things are going waaaay slower than they should... BUT, a slight change of course has presented itself for the build... I found someone who is going to get me a good deal on galvanizing my frame. By good deal, I don't mean cheap job, I mean this guy makes trailers and takes them in batches to get galvanized. The best part is, I "discovered" him because he is a "new" cruiser head. When I asked about getting my frame galvanized he thought that would be great and offered to take it with a batch of trailers, I pay what he pays and chip in a little for transport costs. He and his son are currently re-building a '75 FJ40.

So, I'm working through welding up all the little fiddly holes that have been made my P.O.'s over the years, making sure I have my engine and tranny mounts in the right places, and adding a few tabs to the frame to attach my veggie fuel tank, prior to galvanizing.

The best part though is another deal made, which I am super excited about.... But it's staying hush hush until it's all said and done - stay tuned for something super cool!

 

[MrMoMo]

Cut and patched a small section in the front cross frame, and welded on my doublers/mud flap mounts...

Removed the old exhaust mounting tabs on the cross tubes, and welded in some brackets to hold my veggie tank. (Yeah, it's not quite done!)

Also brought the body back into the shop. Going to toss the engine and tranny in and lower the body on to make sure everything lines up before the frame goes for galvanizing!

 

[kling-on]

Sweet ... Want to veg mine too

 

[tonka8110]

I would love to veggie mine but finding out details is hard, I don't know where to start looking