Inclined FJ80 (1 Viewer)

[crikeymike]

I just read through the whole thread. Since the coils are the same on both sides, that's definitely a huge issue. The designers must not have been aware of the regular difference on all land cruisers, and it gets worse the more it's lifted.

I would suggest buying 1 of each of these 30mm spacers and putting them on the low side.

Dobinsons Front 30mm Polyurethane Coil Spacer (Single) Toyota Land Cruiser 80 105 - Exit Offroad

High Quality Polyurethane, maintains height over time Perfect fit between OE isolator and coil seat Sold individually, available front and rear for several vehicles Lasts longer than rubber Easy to add lift height for worn coils

exitoffroad.com

Dobinsons Rear 30mm Polyurethane Coil Spacer (Single) Toyota Land Cruiser 80 105 - Exit Offroad

High Quality Polyurethane, maintains height over time Perfect fit between OE isolator and coil seat Sold individually, available front and rear for several vehicles Lasts longer than rubber Easy to add lift height for worn coils

exitoffroad.com

When you add 30mm to the low side, it will shift some of the weight over to the other side, lowering it, and it "should" balance out then.

 

[crikeymike]

Thanks guys. I told the guy who installed these the exact same thing and he "slapped me" and said. "NO! How dare you, im not that dumb".... first signal he may be..... LOL.

Second off I personally went under the car and got the P/N for all the springs and well, they are all the same, but what you all said is exactly what I thought. I even thought he built the FWD on the LEFT and the AFT on the RIGHT but yesterday I saw they all have the same numbers, BUT I INSIST, this is the most logical. Look at this. Im emailing EIBACH today.

They LOOK different in the sale ad, but mechanic insists that they are same, that the springs don't look different in rela life. (I never got to see the kit to be honest)
View attachment 2987053

Now these springs had the same numbers on all four of them, but perhaps there was an order for them???

That's probably a generic kit photo, I do the same on my website, as we don't have photos of every single spring.

 

[willorge]

Thank you all. Its sad because its a 1990 model car, and if EIBACH screwed up with making same size coils in the beginning and realized the screwed up, well, CORRECT THE FLAW! I find it terrible that they are just playing dumb and keep fabricating them Its tottaly stupid.

 

[BILT4ME]

Thank you all. Its sad because its a 1990 model car, and if EIBACH screwed up with making same size coils in the beginning and realized the screwed up, well, CORRECT THE FLAW! I find it terrible that they are just playing dumb and keep fabricating them Its tottaly stupid.

What is the build date from the VIN tag on the door?

The 80 series was technically 1991 to start.

 

[willorge]

What is the build date from the VIN tag on the door?

The 80 series was technically 1991 to start.

Sorry, meant 1990's. Mine is a Jap 1993. I meant, this is a 1990's vehicle, and these guys have been making these coils X number of years. They could of messed up the first time, but if you keep on messing it up it just means you are *^$$%($)

 

[willorge]

Hey guys,

Im back. Not so excited. No so happy.

Summary. I had the darn eibachs and they were 3”. I ordered the new springs, 2” so it would fit my darn garage. Great. I ordered the OME 2” springs with Constant load 200kg in the back. And 100kg in the front.

So. It cost a fortune and it took a month and a half. Ok. Cool. Got them last week. They installed them. First thing they said. “Its still drooped to the left slightly”. I was mighty pissed and went and picked it up. Yes. Slightly inclined. So. I did notice sometthing else. The car was now STANDING up like a moquitooooo.

I went to my mechanic and he said, “well. This is a problem? Your car is now taller than it was before…..”. And yes. It is!

The old measurements (in CM) from rim to fender are in ink. And the new one digital. (Right rear new measures 38cm). So. Rear raised front lowered. Even though it looks more in reality

So. Now it looks like this.

But now. I think I may have Ducked up. I dont see these shocks compressed as necesary. I think I dont have 200Kg as calculated. That why it looks so tall!

And guess what now. The car Wont fit my garage. Which is a nightmare here.

It’s unbelievable. I had a set of EIBACH crappy 3” springs which with the same weight compressed the car to look like a low rider, in other words, piece of crap springs, and the car would fit my garage. I now buy a set of real 2” Shocks and springs and surprise, they sit so high mu car wont fit my garage…….

So now I have two problems……. What do I do.

I went to a specialist and he measured and aligned my car after the suspension, and he said the incline might be due to the chassis. He had these measurements when aligning.

So what now?

HOW DO I LOWER THE CAR? It cant sit outside? I cant knock down the entrance of the building i have got these suggestions. Im not clearing the garage by about 2.0-2.5 inches.

* Cut the rear springs one loop to make the shorter. (I find this as an insult, new springs being cut?? Ouch! . What are the risks? Would it cause the car to lower?)

* Go down from 33” wheels to 32”. I think the wheels now look very small. Going to a 32 will make them look smaller. But. Would this help?

*lower the roof rack, have it modified, so it sits on the car roof basically. I can gain maybe .80 inches. PLUS. Having the roof tent rails removed and anchored directly to the roof rack. Gaining an other .80 inches. So hardly gaining 1.60-2.00 inches. This is all guess work…

*get rid of the rood tent/ make a small trailer (not bad. But….then i loose wait for the constant load 200kg” and it looses its enchantment

* ive heard about deflating tires. Filling them back. I need a compressor and about 40 mins each time. Out of the question

*. Add weight to the back? How much? Even though the fromt is lower, rear is higher, the front part doesnt begin to clear the garage.

*make a rear bullbar. Heavy one? Not a bad idea…. Could consider it. That would add maybe 80kg?

*Buy a new house? No. Not an option really

*leave the car outside. Not a real
Option. Its dangerous. Car could be jacked. Crashed. And it deteriorates.

I know I have a lot of camping gear. But it doesn’t add so much weight. And keeping it constantly in the car, well, not so sure. Id need to pull everything out (coolers, storage boxes) to load them and take them back….. damn it…

Any way. Si. I think i need your help.

Inclination. Well. Im gonna add spacers eventually and thats it…..

Your thoughts

 

[clx16]

I think it looks good but that isn't really an issue. You want it to be safe so you likely need to be creative. I can't fit mine in the garage if i have my roof top tent on. I also found a way to get my garage door to open higher but doesn't seem like you can do that.

Do you have some ratchet straps to crank the back down to the axle?

OME is known for the lean a little. Mine was like that so that's why I went Dobinsons. I would fix the lean with spacers and stop spending money.

 

[MickeyB]

What OME springs did you get?

Copy and paste from Slee

OME offers two sets of front coil spring for the 80 series to achieve a 2.5" lift. The two sets have the same spring rate, but there is a 20mm difference in free height.

2851 is recommended for a stock vehicle, or with a light weight front bumper installed.

2850 is recommended for vehicles with a aftermarket front bumper and winch installed. Using this spring without constant additional weight on the front will over lift the front of the vehicle and cause driveability issues due to low caster and possible drivelline vibrations.

OME springs rates are higher than OE (factory) springs. Higher spring rates does not increase GVWR rating of the vehicle. Different spring rates are used to compensate for added weight of permanently installed accessories (heavy steel bumper, drawers, sub tanks etc).
Correctly chosen the vehicle would sit level when loaded with cargo.
2860 - These springs are used on stock vehicles.
2863 - These springs are used when installing a steel aftermarket bumper with swing-out carriers
2864 - These springs are used when installing a steel aftermarket bumper with swing-out carriers as well as a drawer system or auxiliary fuel tank.
Using either of the 2863 or 2864 springs in the rear of the vehicle without additional weight will yield more than 2.5" of lift and cause the rear of the vehicle to be a lot higher than the front.

 

[alia176]

for now, deflate the rear tires and get the car into the garage then worry about your next steps.

Another option is to add 200kg of weight in the back and see if that lowers it enough to go into your garage. The new springs will settle a little bit over time but having extra weight back in the cargo area will help with that. However, carrying around 200kg of extra weight will decrease your fuel economy

 

[MickeyB]

I recommend swapping to the 2860 rear medium load. I previously had the 2863 constant load with and Arb swing out bumper and the LC was still taller in rear. I called Christo at Slee and he said I needed the 2860 even though I still had the rear arb. Put those on and it leveled everything out. Does not make since but evidently you have to have a crazy amount of weight for the constant load to work.

Also make sure your putting the springs on the correct side. The taller ones should be going on the side of the vehicle with most weight such as gas tank and side with steering gear and battery for front.

 

[gummycarbs]

Add weight to the back? How much?

Add a beefy rear bumper with swing-outs and some drawers in the back. That mostly leveled mine.

Side-to-side, you'll probably always have some lean. It's commonly called "the cruiser lean". You can probably get rid of it with spacers if it bothers you.

 

[willorge]

I think it looks good but that isn't really an issue. You want it to be safe so you likely need to be creative. I can't fit mine in the garage if i have my roof top tent on. I also found a way to get my garage door to open higher but doesn't seem like you can do that.

Do you have some ratchet straps to crank the back down to the axle?

OME is known for the lean a little. Mine was like that so that's why I went Dobinsons. I would fix the lean with spacers and stop spending money.

Hello and thank you all for helping!

My rooftop tent is permanently on and no choice to remove it. Lets part from there. Its part of the car wherever I go. Fitting and unfitting it could take 3 hours. So no option. This car is only used to go play. Not for day to day stuff. So it doesnt fit because of the tent. Thats exactly why.

About the rachet straps. Bare with me. A friend of mine JUST suggested that a min ago! So basically compressing the car to go in and releasing it once inside and then the same to go out. Interesting. Where must I compress or attache these to to do it properly!?

The inlcine. Yes. Spacers. That will have to be. Add 2cm in the front. 4cm in the back? That would do it. Anything will be better than how it looks now. (My mechanic said maybe we just need to add in the front and that will level the back??)

What OME springs did you get?

Copy and paste from Slee

OME offers two sets of front coil spring for the 80 series to achieve a 2.5" lift. The two sets have the same spring rate, but there is a 20mm difference in free height.

2851 is recommended for a stock vehicle, or with a light weight front bumper installed.

2850 is recommended for vehicles with a aftermarket front bumper and winch installed. Using this spring without constant additional weight on the front will over lift the front of the vehicle and cause driveability issues due to low caster and possible drivelline vibrations.

OME springs rates are higher than OE (factory) springs. Higher spring rates does not increase GVWR rating of the vehicle. Different spring rates are used to compensate for added weight of permanently installed accessories (heavy steel bumper, drawers, sub tanks etc).
Correctly chosen the vehicle would sit level when loaded with cargo.
2860 - These springs are used on stock vehicles.
2863 - These springs are used when installing a steel aftermarket bumper with swing-out carriers
2864 - These springs are used when installing a steel aftermarket bumper with swing-out carriers as well as a drawer system or auxiliary fuel tank.
Using either of the 2863 or 2864 springs in the rear of the vehicle without additional weight will yield more than 2.5" of lift and cause the rear of the vehicle to be a lot higher than the front.

Mickey Thank you. I ordered these.

2850 for the front as I have a bumper
And winch

2863 was the plan as I estimated to have 180kg but maybe I ducked up. But well. What now. It looks too tall. And maybe too rigid?
It looks like more than 2.5 but I was told it was 2”. Not 2.5”. Any way. It looks good but too high. May need to ass weight!? Crap. More expenses

for now, deflate the rear tires and get the car into the garage then worry about your next steps.

Another option is to add 200kg of weight in the back and see if that lowers it enough to go into your garage. The new springs will settle a little bit over time but having extra weight back in the cargo area will help with that. However, carrying around 200kg of extra weight will decrease your fuel economy

About the weight. Well. Just off the top pf my head. I have the following

Roof rack
Shovel
Pullpall
Tent
6 light chairs
One camping table
Recovery gear
Axe
Shovel #2
Extras
Spare tire
Three sleeping bags

And it looks like this…… crap. And yeah. I could add some more stuff. But what else that could always go there. The rear bumper COULD be an idea. But im drained
On expenses.

 

[OffRoadScott]

To get rid of that forward lean or "stink bug" look get some spacers or the "J" equivalent of the springs you have now and to cure your "lean" look into spacers for the passenger side. The spacers are available in varied thickness.

 

[OffRoadScott]

Hello and thank you all for helping!

My rooftop tent is permanently on and no choice to remove it. Lets part from there. Its part of the car wherever I go. Fitting and unfitting it could take 3 hours. So no option. This car is only used to go play. Not for day to day stuff. So it doesnt fit because of the tent. Thats exactly why.

About the rachet straps. Bare with me. A friend of mine JUST suggested that a min ago! So basically compressing the car to go in and releasing it once inside and then the same to go out. Interesting. Where must I compress or attache these to to do it properly!?

The inlcine. Yes. Spacers. That will have to be. Add 2cm in the front. 4cm in the back? That would do it. Anything will be better than how it looks now. (My mechanic said maybe we just need to add in the front and that will level the back??)


Mickey Thank you. I ordered these.

2850 for the front as I have a bumper
And winch

2863 was the plan as I estimated to have 180kg but maybe I ducked up. But well. What now. It looks too tall. And maybe too rigid?
It looks like more than 2.5 but I was told it was 2”. Not 2.5”. Any way. It looks good but too high. May need to ass weight!? Crap. More expenses


About the weight. Well. Just off the top pf my head. I have the following

Roof rack
Shovel
Pullpall
Tent
6 light chairs
One camping table
Recovery gear
Axe
Shovel #2
Extras
Spare tire
Three sleeping bags

And it looks like this…… crap. And yeah. I could add some more stuff. But what else that could always go there. The rear bumper COULD be an idea. But im drained
On expenses.

From this post I see you have the exact same spring set up I HAD. You will want to go with the 2850J and longer shocks.

This is my setup with the 850J and 863 in the rear I am also running a 30mm spacer on all four corners.
Not sure if it has been addressed but make sure the springs are installed on the correct side too. OME are designed for RHD vehicles, so I believe A is in your situation drivers side and B is passenger.

 

[willorge]

Mick

I recommend swapping to the 2860 rear medium load. I previously had the 2863 constant load with and Arb swing out bumper and the LC was still taller in rear. I called Christo at Slee and he said I needed the 2860 even though I still had the rear arb. Put those on and it leveled everything out. Does not make since but evidently you have to have a crazy amount of weight for the constant load to work.

Also make sure your putting the springs on the correct side. The taller ones should be going on the side of the vehicle with most weight such as gas tank and side with steering gear and battery for front.

Mickey. Correct. By when Inread your message the other had gone out . No return.

I have a tone of weight and still seems like nothing is on it

I hope they built it right. On the right side. Since the ones who installed it are OME representatives I would hope they did it right!

Now I wish I would of gotten the 2860

About the lean. Yeah. Definitely spacers. Just need to know if I must add them
In both front and rear or just rear…..or front?

 

[willorge]

To get rid of that forward lean or "stink bug" look get some spacers or the "J" equivalent of the springs you have now and to cure your "lean" look into spacers for the passenger side. The spacers are available in varied thickness.

Ah well crap. Lol. Its a done deal. What now!? . The front it lower than the rear. Now I need spacers in the front? Cause I cant change the springs. Crap!

 

[leonard_nemoy]

Just need to know if I must add them
In both front and rear or just rear…..or front?

You only need to add them where they are needed. If you want the back taller add them in the back. If you want the front taller to match the rear only add them to the front.

Why not return the suspension and start over with oem height suspension. New oem height will still clear 33" tires for the most part.

 

[OffRoadScott]

Ah well crap. Lol. Its a done deal. What now!? . The front it lower than the rear. Now I need spacers in the front? Cause I cant change the springs. Crap!

Just get yourself some spacers for the front.

 

[gummycarbs]

So basically compressing the car to go in and releasing it once inside and then the same to go out.

I believe that someone here installed a rear winch that could pull the body down toward the rear axle solely for garage clearance. I can't seem to find the thread, unfortunately.

 

[crikeymike]

You only need to add them where they are needed. If you want the back taller add them in the back. If you want the front taller to match the rear only add them to the front.

Why not return the suspension and start over with oem height suspension. New oem height will still clear 33" tires for the most part.

Because he's in Ecuador, South America. Part of the problem is cost of getting the parts, expense, and delivery times.