Inclined FJ80

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Loosen all the bushings and re-tighten with vehicle sitting on the ground. Track bar bushings and trailing arm bushings.

Unless the mechanic touched the suspension bushings, they shouldn't be needed to be loosened. I doubt if there was a lean like this with the stock springs but maybe there was and we'll never know!
 
Unless the mechanic touched the suspension bushings, they shouldn't be needed to be loosened. I doubt if there was a lean like this with the stock springs but maybe there was and we'll never know!
It was a simple suggestion I thought of that probably won't help now I look at it again.
 
Hello Guys,

Sorry I didn't reply today I had a long day as you can tell from the time of this message. LOL

Not really. Looking at your photos, you're at 2" difference in front and 1-3/8" in back. I would order a 30mm front and 30mm rears (looks like rears are only sold in pairs). NLT-REV168-0008 front, NLT-REV170-0008 rear, from SummitRacing.com.
Thank you very much for the P/N and explanation! And thank you for the explanation and graphic description of the PANHARD.

check and make sure the springs are sitting in their brackets properly. If they are not turned to the correct position they can add height to one side or the other .. i would be checking the passenger side (lado derecha)
Thats my first thought, Ill have to check tomorrow if I make it in on time. Very busy these days. LOL, the Footbal, hahaha, come on! :rofl:

FWIW, weight is not a factor in why stock and most aftermarket 80 springs are longer on one side. The axle spring perches are taller on the right side due to the location of the differentials, so that side uses shorter springs.

@willorge While your springs may be identical side to side, they shouldn't be front to back. One set should be considerably larger in circumference. Maybe I misunderstood that part of your story.
Funny though, they say that these EIBACH arent side specific, makes me wonder to be honest, how can they NOT be.

Loosen all the bushings and re-tighten with vehicle sitting on the ground. Track bar bushings and trailing arm bushings.
Thank you WhiteStripe. I think we need to try this. EIBACH already sent pictures specific se I can do this in the shop and see. Lets hope for it.
 
I would NOT suggest doing this because the suspension hardware is very unique in our landcruisers. The mechanic may end up ruining them in the process of loosening and tightening them. Please only touch what has been touched already and that is the springs. Let's not introduce new variables into this equation and then chase our tails!

I'd swap the front springs side to side then perform the steps I outlined above on post #11. After this is done, please draw up another diagram with the height measurements. Theoretically, if these springs are not side specific, we should see the same numbers again as before.

Additionally, please make sure your Springs are seated properly in their home positions like the picture below.

16506368557589009606662180424039.jpg
 
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The mechanic may end up ruining them in the process of loosening and tightening them.

How? Just loosen the side with the washer on the radius arms to avoid the stakes and you should be fine. Panhard bolts aren't staked. I don't think the rear control arms are, either, but it's been years since I touched mine.
 
Could it be something annoyingly simple like springs that are left/right specific on the 80 series that got installed on the wrong sides? Or front/rear got goofed?
I would bet money they switched the springs. Happened to me on my first 80 series.
 
I also wonder if the drivers side got two fronts and the passenger side got two rears or vice versa....

Please only touch what has been touched already and that is the springs.

There is a good chance the mechanic touched more than the springs. I wouldn't be at all surprised if his mechanic loosened a bunch of suspension components to install the springs.
 
How? Just loosen the side with the washer on the radius arms to avoid the stakes and you should be fine. Panhard bolts aren't staked. I don't think the rear control arms are, either, but it's been years since I touched mine.

Every single suspension "links" have staked or flanged hardware that shouldn't be loosened with the exception of the panhard rods. Panhard rods don't have staked hardware.

We don't know all the facts, but if the suspension hardware wasn't touched previously, I'd not introduce new variables into this equation!
 
Every single suspension "links" have staked or flanged hardware that shouldn't be loosened with the exception of the panhard rods. Panhard rods don't have staked hardware.

We don't know all the facts, but if the suspension hardware wasn't touched previously, I'd not introduce new variables into this equation!
Only the flanged head of the hardware shouldn't be spun while tight, and all of the hardware has at least one non-flanged side. It's not an issue to loosen any of the hardware if done correctly, and it's almost certain that the frame ends of the radius arms were loosened to install springs, and all of the rear arm ends. I seriously doubt that bushing bind would cause or even contribute to 'lean', but it's a good idea to relieve any tension in the bushings with the weight on the suspension. I believe that's called out in the FSM, even.
 
We don't know all the facts, but if the suspension hardware wasn't touched previously, I'd not introduce new variables into this equation!
Again, changing ride height without loosening bushings means they're under constant tension.

I don't understand why you're even posting about this. It couldn't cause the extreme angle that OP is experiencing and all that matters regarding suspension bushings is that 1) the non-staked side is loosened and 2) it is re-torqued to the correct specification.
 
Again, changing ride height without loosening bushings means they're under constant tension.

I don't understand why you're even posting about this. It couldn't cause the extreme angle that OP is experiencing and all that matters regarding suspension bushings is that 1) the non-staked side is loosened and 2) it is re-torqued to the correct specification.

Sorry man, just trying to keep things simple with the OP and his mechanic, that's all. Someone suggested that the mechanic loosen all suspension hardware so I spoke up against it. I don't know if his mechanic in Ecuador is well versed on Toyota flanged hardware so if they weren't touched to begin with, leave well enough alone and concentrate on swapping the front springs side to side.

You're correct, suspension hardware tightness don't cause the kind of height difference the OP is experiencing.

I'm not arguing with your statement "Again, changing ride height without loosening bushings means they're under constant tension."

Do any of us loosen suspension bushing hardware going from a 2" lift to a 3" lift or a 4" lift? I know, I don't ever do this. The only time my suspension hardware is touched is when the suspension bushings are replaced, which is once or twice a decade or so.

We don't have all the facts on what exactly the mechanic did so I'm trying to keep things simple by only altering one variable at a time. 😁
 
@alia176 Thank you very much, will do as described, I need to see if I can do this this upcoming week. Im not gonna be able to this weekend and Im getting frustrated, LOL. I agree, adding variables to the equation may not be a good idea. Ill check the sprints are sitting on the right position, I had it checked by the mechanic once and he disassembled and reassembled, then I went to my local toyota due to a CLICK sound and had everything tightened so I hope they would of checked this but hell, this is SOUTHA AMERICA.

I would bet money they switched the springs. Happened to me on my first 80 series.
I think the same, but they say they are not side specific so it beats me, Id just flip the sides to begin with like suggested by everybody.

I also wonder if the drivers side got two fronts and the passenger side got two rears or vice versa....



There is a good chance the mechanic touched more than the springs. I wouldn't be at all surprised if his mechanic loosened a bunch of suspension components to install the springs.
That was my first thought, which would explain why the front rides HIGHER but they said that front and back springs are different....


Again, changing ride height without loosening bushings means they're under constant tension.
I wanna think that they should of known this but benefit of the doubt really.



I gotta admit, I am frustrated and I thank all of you for your suggestions and help. I would like to reset everything and start over but things here are so hard to get, takes a semester to order something, it costs THREE TIMES as much as in the states, and installations are terrible! Ill keep you all posted. THANK YOU
 
A friend of mine, Cruiser owner as well, recommended I measured the chasis to the surface distances, in order to confirm that the springs are the problem. So he asked me to measure the Chasis base screw to the ground and note the numbers, so I did with my cheap drawings.

Apparently this confirms the facts and the problem are the springs, regardless of measurements, the Chasis should be straight.... and not the springs forcing it to lean.....

Earlier in the thread someone mentioned "Toss those Eibach and add Old Man Emu o Ironman, etc."..... well CRAP..... I think Im going to have to and change everything. I would also be pulling down from 3" to a 2" Suspension if this needs to be done, as I have already scratched my new rooftop tent today after I withdrew weight from the trunk and pulled out of the garage NO BUENO.

IMG_3417.PNG


So
#1 LEFT FRONT: 22"
#2 RIGHT FONT: 22" 7/8
#3 REAR RIGHT: 22" 6/8
#4 REAR LEFT: 21" 2/8

DIF BETWEEN REAR LEFT AND RIGHT: 1 4/8"
DIF BETWEEN FRONT LEFT AND RIGHT: 7/8"

DIF BETWEEN REAR LEFT AND FRONT LEFT: 6/8"
DIF BETWEEN REAR RIGHT AND FRONT RIGHT: 1/8"

Any way, Ill keep you posted. It's a shame to live in the 3rd world and that it takes months to bring the shocks from USA, and they add a 60% tax and shipping fee.
 
A friend of mine, Cruiser owner as well, recommended I measured the chasis to the surface distances, in order to confirm that the springs are the problem. So he asked me to measure the Chasis base screw to the ground and note the numbers, so I did with my cheap drawings.

Apparently this confirms the facts and the problem are the springs, regardless of measurements, the Chasis should be straight.... and not the springs forcing it to lean.....

Earlier in the thread someone mentioned "Toss those Eibach and add Old Man Emu o Ironman, etc."..... well CRAP..... I think Im going to have to and change everything. I would also be pulling down from 3" to a 2" Suspension if this needs to be done, as I have already scratched my new rooftop tent today after I withdrew weight from the trunk and pulled out of the garage NO BUENO.

View attachment 2991540

So
#1 LEFT FRONT: 22"
#2 RIGHT FONT: 22" 7/8
#3 REAR RIGHT: 22" 6/8
#4 REAR LEFT: 21" 2/8

DIF BETWEEN REAR LEFT AND RIGHT: 1 4/8"
DIF BETWEEN FRONT LEFT AND RIGHT: 7/8"

DIF BETWEEN REAR LEFT AND FRONT LEFT: 6/8"
DIF BETWEEN REAR RIGHT AND FRONT RIGHT: 1/8"

Any way, Ill keep you posted. It's a shame to live in the 3rd world and that it takes months to bring the shocks from USA, and they add a 60% tax and shipping fee.
If your springs are the issue, then swapping sides should do something, even if it doesn't fix it. The right side axle perches are taller on all 80's, and your right side measurements are higher. If your right side springs are taller, then swapping them to the left side could fix the issue, or possibly make the left side taller than the right. Either way it tells you something.

If your springs are actually the same height, as the manufacturer says they should be, then the springs aren't the issue. The right side axle spring perches are only about a half inch or so taller than the left. Your measurements show a 7/8" difference in the front and 1.5" difference in the rear. If, for some reason, your right rear spring was (way) too tall or too stiff, it would also lift up the right front. The same effect could be from the left front spring being way too short or weak, or an extreme amount of weight on that corner. It's pretty hard to put extra weight on that corner. Maybe one or more of your springs are from a different kit, and are either too tall/short or are a different spring rate. Or maybe your frame is severely twisted.

Please post some pics of the bottom of the springs showing the coil end, like in post #25, and of the top, so we can see if the springs are installed correctly and if they have any spacers. I don't see how you'd get the 1.5" difference in the rear just from having them installed incorrectly, but a tall spacer on the right side might do it. If they are installed correctly, you will need to remove the springs and measure/compare the free height and wire thickness. There aren't many other options, aside from throwing parts at it, which is not something I'd recommend.
 
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If your springs are the issue, then swapping sides should do something, even if it doesn't fix it. The right side axle perches are taller on all 80's, and your right side measurements are higher. If your right side springs are taller, then swapping them to the left side could fix the issue, or possibly make the left side taller than the right. Either way it tells you something.
I learned something new today, thanks Spike. Are both front and rear right (U.S. passenger) spring perches higher than the left side or only the front passenger side?
 
A friend of mine, Cruiser owner as well, recommended I measured the chasis to the surface distances, in order to confirm that the springs are the problem. So he asked me to measure the Chasis base screw to the ground and note the numbers, so I did with my cheap drawings.

Apparently this confirms the facts and the problem are the springs, regardless of measurements, the Chasis should be straight.... and not the springs forcing it to lean.....

Earlier in the thread someone mentioned "Toss those Eibach and add Old Man Emu o Ironman, etc."..... well CRAP..... I think Im going to have to and change everything. I would also be pulling down from 3" to a 2" Suspension if this needs to be done, as I have already scratched my new rooftop tent today after I withdrew weight from the trunk and pulled out of the garage NO BUENO.


So
#1 LEFT FRONT: 22"
#2 RIGHT FONT: 22" 7/8
#3 REAR RIGHT: 22" 6/8
#4 REAR LEFT: 21" 2/8

DIF BETWEEN REAR LEFT AND RIGHT: 1 4/8"
DIF BETWEEN FRONT LEFT AND RIGHT: 7/8"

DIF BETWEEN REAR LEFT AND FRONT LEFT: 6/8"
DIF BETWEEN REAR RIGHT AND FRONT RIGHT: 1/8"

Any way, Ill keep you posted. It's a shame to live in the 3rd world and that it takes months to bring the shocks from USA, and they add a 60% tax and shipping fee.

Great job amigo, and thank you for using non metric measurements for us Americans :rofl:
 
I learned something new today, thanks Spike. Are both front and rear right (U.S. passenger) spring perches higher than the left side or only the front passenger side?
Both front and rear right side, due to the axle differentials being on that side. It is the US passenger side, but doesn't change sides according to drive position. It's always the right side, when seated in the vehicle. This information is wrong, please see post #49.
 
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Both front and rear right side, due to the axle differentials being on that side. It is the US passenger side, but doesn't change sides according to drive position. It's always the right side, when seated in the vehicle.

thanks again, this is great info.
 

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