in depth rear disc brake conversion

[camcruiser13]

Thank you for all the posative responses. I do write ups to help those that are like me. That have no idea where to start. Don't know what parts to get etc. Hope this helps. As you can see there is more than one way of doing things. Again thanks

 

[brooklyn]

parts

thanks for the part numbers. doing my rear at the moment, so this is a good read.

 

[DSRTRDR]

Just up to you where you want things to be

you'd want the bleeder screw to point to the top - otherwise, you will never get the air entirely out of the system

 

[camcruiser13]

Good point. The brackets are interchangeable so that is possible to do where ever you decide to put the calipers

 

[Silicon 70]

Once again, thanks for doing a great write up. This is my first 2011 project and while Poser's write up was already sufficient, its always good to see it from a different perspective.

 

[camcruiser13]

OK

so the proportioning valve came that i was waiting on to get this finished. i

so you saw what i was working with, stock master cylinder.

first i needed to fab up a bracket that i thought would fit and look decent without alot of work. solution some scrap sheet metal and a grinder and drill.

 

[camcruiser13]

some of the tools that will help and probably a must is the double flare tool, a mini pipe cutter and a tube bender. the bender is not a must but it make the bends look super clean.

this is the hardline i buy at autozone with the correct fittings

 

[camcruiser13]

first i undid the rear brake line from the master cylinder and then looked in to see what was in there, some have a plastic piece with a rubber plunger of some type, if you have this, now is the time to remove it as youll not need it anymore, hence the proportioning valve that you are adding to your system.

 

[camcruiser13]

awesome my pictures are all side ways

 

[camcruiser13]

now after removing those pieces you wanna find where your best option for mounting the proportioning valve is, mine was on the driver side using the 2 bolts that hold the cylinder to the booster, easiest i feel.

after you get that figured out, now you can let your artistic juices flow, and route the line from the cylinder to the valve.

 

[camcruiser13]

now if you have never flared a brake line before, never fear its not as hard as one would think.


just remember to put you bolt on before you flare,

anyone who has done there own brakelines will now what im talking about


steps,

1 just tube to length or bend the line then cut, whatever you choose, slip the nut on
2 leave a little tupe out past the clamp and insert the round piece that will smash the tube down,
3 take out the flat smasher part and tighten down the vise again and valla your done

simple, read some instructions and practice and youll be fine

once you do that you can bolt them up and be done

 

[camcruiser13]

ok once you figure your route and flare pretty much all thats left is to bleed the brakes and test it out


so here is my finished routing of my lines off the cylinder,



now all is left is to bleed the brakes and give it a test run

 

[camcruiser13]

fairly simple, just takes time.

i am going out to drive it and test the brakes and will report a little later

 

[imabigbangkindaguy]

Damnation, Cam!! Your write is so easy to follow, now I HAVE TO go ahead and do the disc swap.....

Great write up man!!

 

[Straightsixmiller]

Thanks for the part numbers. I am in the process of doing my third conversion. Much cheaper than in kit form.

 

[joeyk]

nice work

im in costa rica...got any idea what your rotors came off of /part number????

 

[camcruiser13]

i got my rotors from poser here on mud


the problem is that you have to have the middle opened up and to pay a shop theyll gouge you, i found it worth while to just buy them already the be bolted on from poser.

 

[camcruiser13]

I was not happy with how much lug stud was left after the rotors were installed and swapped out my studs for longer units. You may want to mount up a wheel to make sure you have enough stud left. I cut off my backing plates to avoid going into the diff but found I had to anyway when I found my studs too short.

after bolting my wheels i have come to think that this is a good idea, there is not much more than a 1/2" there to bolt them too.

where did you get yours? part #? if any for reference

 

[camcruiser13]

ok so



after a test drive

WOW

and testing where to set the dial for the proportioning valve

WOW

WHY did i not do this sooner???? usually what i ask myself after every conversion i do

but this is amazing, so responsive and very noticable


i did notice that you do not need to let much fluid go to the rears. i turned it all the way down and then opened the valve just a hair. works perfect. i am blown away. no leaks and work phenomenal


WOW x10

 

[camcruiser13]

Ok so my final thoughts on this conversion is

If you are thinking about it or it has crossed your mind, get it done. worth every penny imho. just stopping in my driveway when i was done driving around was such a difference.
this should have been done years ago, before the big tires and soa etc. do it.

Thank you to all who have assisted with feedback, parts, ideas etc.

i would say it has been a 1/2 out of job,

take you time have picture references and put it back together the way you took it apart and i think anyone could do it.



again thanks for all comments and feedback. and feel free to ask questions