in depth rear disc brake conversion

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Pighead said:
Very nice pics & words. I'm going to be doing this any day now, on my Pig. Already got the box from Poser.
But, if one did not want to pull the rear axles (like, if one had a Detroit locker in the rear and didn't know how to pull it out), could one simply cut off the old drumbrake backing plate? Do the axles NEED to come out to put it together again?
Click to expand...

Yea, you can just cut the plates off.
 
now we move to the front were it gets to the plumbing portion of this write up.


as you can see below this is what im currently working with.

i am waiting for my proportioning valve to come so for now ill take a break and get back to finishing this write up when i get the part to finish it up.


hope this is helpful
IMG_0416.webp
IMG_0417.webp
 
Orygun said:
will you be replacing the Master Cylinder, if so do you have a part number?
Click to expand...

not at this time. christmas has eaten up all my dough, i may soon but not as of now.

youll want matser from a 94 80 series non abs i believe, ill post more on that if and when i get around to that mod
 
green40 said:
Yea, you can just cut the plates off.
Click to expand...

if you dont need or care about the parts then hack away,

i was thinking a mudder could use mine and i wanted to inspect my locker, seals and bearings etc/
 
attachment.php


I would do something about supporting the hardline to soft line joint here.. The hardline will fatigue and crack with the weight of the soft line flapping about on the end of it there.. A crack in a brake line is not a good thing.

I have seen posts by Poser on this conversion, he uses tombstone tabs, maybe he can supply some..

Edit: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/152126-rear-disc-brakes.html#post2105688

Looks like Posers calipers are higher than where you have yours at.. Being low like that makes them more likely to contact rocks.
 
Last edited:
How difficult (and safe) would it be to route those brakelines above the springs?
 
Pighead said:
How difficult (and safe) would it be to route those brakelines above the springs?
Click to expand...

No can do. They are only 12 inches. Trust me they are out of the way. Alot more so than the stock hardlines
 
vk7ybi said:
attachment.php


I would do something about supporting the hardline to soft line joint here.. The hardline will fatigue and crack with the weight of the soft line flapping about on the end of it there.. A crack in a brake line is not a good thing.

I have seen posts by Poser on this conversion, he uses tombstone tabs, maybe he can supply some..

Edit: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/152126-rear-disc-brakes.html#post2105688

Looks like Posers calipers are higher than where you have yours at.. Being low like that makes them more likely to contact rocks.
Click to expand...

I'm thinking of scrapping that fitting and running straight into that splitter. Trust me at 3 am your not seeing the big picture



Yes he can supply them. I will down the road if I see a problem. They do not flop around or wiggle. They should be fine. I'll keep you posted on. Any Ill effects if any
 
Last edited:
Nice write up- I did this a few years ago on my 76 and after power steering- the best mod I have done.

I used a wilwood porportioner and also had to remove the residual valves in my master cylinder.

Also - hoping that is high temp paint for the calipers- they look great
 
TemeculaTim said:
Nice write up- I did this a few years ago on my 76 and after power steering- the best mod I have done.

I used a wilwood porportioner and also had to remove the residual valves in my master cylinder.

Also - hoping that is high temp paint for the calipers- they look great
Click to expand...

thats the plan, yes it is good up to 900 degrees, caliper paint,

you running a residual valve??
 
I don't run residual valves with my disk conversion - I just removed them from the (drum) master cylinder
 
Cam...very nice write-up!!! :beer: This is what a rookie like me needs...step by step visual instructions. I'm adding 60 series discs on the front of mine..Can you do a step by step for that real quick so I can get started on mine... ;)
 
Great job CC.


There is a great write up already on this site for a front disc conversion titled "disc brake conversion for dummies" IIRC

It helped me through my swap. It's not difficult but a little time consuming. While I did mine I upgraded to vented rotors and a better caliper and replaced/rebuilt all components involved. One of the best upgrades I've done so far and when I figure out how to mount a PS pump on my 283 I'll be doing that upgrade.

GL
 
Thanks for this write-up. I'm planning this mod for spring, this is coming at a perfect time for me. Looks like the calipers from Posers thread are 180* from your install. I don't really see a problem with your placement as they are tucked up inside the wheel...Any particular reason why you placed your calipers at the 4 o'clock position rather than the 10 o'clock position? Is the routing of brake lines that much different between the two?
 
kurtnkegger said:
Thanks for this write-up. I'm planning this mod for spring, this is coming at a perfect time for me. Looks like the calipers from Posers thread are 180* from your install. I don't really see a problem with your placement as they are tucked up inside the wheel...Any particular reason why you placed your calipers at the 4 o'clock position rather than the 10 o'clock position? Is the routing of brake lines that much different between the two?
Click to expand...

I like to put my stuff behind the wheels. Like lines shocks calipers things that rocks like to hit and pull on. They would have been more in the three o'clock position except my housing is rotated pointing the pinion more towards the tcase. Just up to you where you want things to be
 
I was not happy with how much lug stud was left after the rotors were installed and swapped out my studs for longer units. You may want to mount up a wheel to make sure you have enough stud left. I cut off my backing plates to avoid going into the diff but found I had to anyway when I found my studs too short.
 
pbgbottle said:
are those rubber brake lines metric on the one end .or are you changing the end of the fitting on the hard line?

brake hoses for calipers autozone 70770 15.99 x2
Click to expand...

Nope didn't change a thing they fit with the stock fittings. If and when you end up buying hardlines they have breaklimes for Japanese vehicles that's the ones you buy and vhalla they will fit perfectly. Just remember that 70770 part number.

Another thing when bolting them to the calipers they need to go a certain way. There is a notch on one side this is the bolt side. The other side is flat that butts up against the caliper. Also don't forget the brass washers. Should be two one between the caliper and hose and one between the bolt and the hose.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom