i wish i ceramic coated my normal rims lol
Builds Ikarus' HDJ81 Aussie-Style Build (7 Viewers)
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- Thread starter
- #562
Finally got some time and space to wrench on my cruiser. I spent the entire summer working on my garage. I mudded, painted and had a guy do epoxy. I also ripped these out:
And built these:
Just need to install the rest of the parts for the railings that showed up today.
Working on correcting suspension geometry. Got Delta 3L arms. Old offset bushings were still in good shape. Unfortunately I never got an alignment so I don't know how much these will change my caster.
I got lucky and only had to break out the ratchet strap once. Everything else lined up nicely and the install was smooth. I also took the time while I was in there to replace the two frame-to-axle brake lines with Slee stainless. I almost did a complete brake overhaul with booster, master cylinder, calipers etc. - all been sitting in my basement for months - but I forgot to buy banjo bolts and copper washers of all things. So that will happen another day.
Also added a Delta panhard bracket in the rear:
(don't worry, not rust, just a thick layer of Moab dust mixed with fluid film... but hey my truck isn't rusty at least haha)
Also while I was in there I swapped out my front springs. I was talking to @crikeymike (awesome customer service BTW, highly recommend Exit Offroad) about my suspension. My current setup was:
Front Springs: C59-166 - Linear Rate - 2.5" with Stock front weight + 20mm spacer
Rear Springs: C59-167 - Linear Rate - 2.5" with up to 220LBS
With the spacer, I measured hub to fender at 22" front, 24" rear. He thought that was weird because those coils should have me at 23". Could be the diesel weight difference and the dual battery setup+intercooler.
He recommended I try: C59-170 FRONT COIL SPRINGS | LAND CRUISER 80 SERIES 3.0″ LIFT WITH 220LBS LOAD
I decided to leave the 20mm spacer in just to see how it looked. I'm now at 24" front. I know it's an unpopular opinion here but I actually really like this stance. Probably going to leave the spacer in and see if it settles any more. Plus I have a little room for an ARB and a winch down the road.
Oh and for anyone with a RHD cruiser, I put the taller spring on the driver side even though it's labeled left side. Between the weight of the driver and the spare tire carrier on the driver's side, it needs the additional height. Seems to be perfectly level with that setup.
Bled the brakes and took it for a drive. Very happy with the driving manners now - everyone is right when they say the Delta arms and panhard bracket really change things. The cruiser feels more planted and less twitchy. Steering is improved.
Obligatory "I finished my project for the day and want a pic but it's too dark" pics:
And built these:
Just need to install the rest of the parts for the railings that showed up today.
Working on correcting suspension geometry. Got Delta 3L arms. Old offset bushings were still in good shape. Unfortunately I never got an alignment so I don't know how much these will change my caster.
I got lucky and only had to break out the ratchet strap once. Everything else lined up nicely and the install was smooth. I also took the time while I was in there to replace the two frame-to-axle brake lines with Slee stainless. I almost did a complete brake overhaul with booster, master cylinder, calipers etc. - all been sitting in my basement for months - but I forgot to buy banjo bolts and copper washers of all things. So that will happen another day.
Also added a Delta panhard bracket in the rear:
(don't worry, not rust, just a thick layer of Moab dust mixed with fluid film... but hey my truck isn't rusty at least haha)
Also while I was in there I swapped out my front springs. I was talking to @crikeymike (awesome customer service BTW, highly recommend Exit Offroad) about my suspension. My current setup was:
Front Springs: C59-166 - Linear Rate - 2.5" with Stock front weight + 20mm spacer
Rear Springs: C59-167 - Linear Rate - 2.5" with up to 220LBS
With the spacer, I measured hub to fender at 22" front, 24" rear. He thought that was weird because those coils should have me at 23". Could be the diesel weight difference and the dual battery setup+intercooler.
He recommended I try: C59-170 FRONT COIL SPRINGS | LAND CRUISER 80 SERIES 3.0″ LIFT WITH 220LBS LOAD
I decided to leave the 20mm spacer in just to see how it looked. I'm now at 24" front. I know it's an unpopular opinion here but I actually really like this stance. Probably going to leave the spacer in and see if it settles any more. Plus I have a little room for an ARB and a winch down the road.
Oh and for anyone with a RHD cruiser, I put the taller spring on the driver side even though it's labeled left side. Between the weight of the driver and the spare tire carrier on the driver's side, it needs the additional height. Seems to be perfectly level with that setup.
Bled the brakes and took it for a drive. Very happy with the driving manners now - everyone is right when they say the Delta arms and panhard bracket really change things. The cruiser feels more planted and less twitchy. Steering is improved.
Obligatory "I finished my project for the day and want a pic but it's too dark" pics:
Your cruiser is absolutely amazing 
This random stranger loves your cruiser, suggests that a slight more rake will look and perform better and you should really consider adding a hidden winch behind the stock bumper and keep the stealth stock look going.Finally got some time and space to wrench on my cruiser. I spent the entire summer working on my garage. I mudded, painted and had a guy do epoxy. I also ripped these out:
And built these:
Just need to install the rest of the parts for the railings that showed up today.
Working on correcting suspension geometry. Got Delta 3L arms. Old offset bushings were still in good shape. Unfortunately I never got an alignment so I don't know how much these will change my caster.
I got lucky and only had to break out the ratchet strap once. Everything else lined up nicely and the install was smooth. I also took the time while I was in there to replace the two frame-to-axle brake lines with Slee stainless. I almost did a complete brake overhaul with booster, master cylinder, calipers etc. - all been sitting in my basement for months - but I forgot to buy banjo bolts and copper washers of all things. So that will happen another day.
Also added a Delta panhard bracket in the rear:
(don't worry, not rust, just a thick layer of Moab dust mixed with fluid film... but hey my truck isn't rusty at least haha)
Also while I was in there I swapped out my front springs. I was talking to @crikeymike (awesome customer service BTW, highly recommend Exit Offroad) about my suspension. My current setup was:
Front Springs: C59-166 - Linear Rate - 2.5" with Stock front weight + 20mm spacer
Rear Springs: C59-167 - Linear Rate - 2.5" with up to 220LBS
With the spacer, I measured hub to fender at 22" front, 24" rear. He thought that was weird because those coils should have me at 23". Could be the diesel weight difference and the dual battery setup+intercooler.
He recommended I try: C59-170 FRONT COIL SPRINGS | LAND CRUISER 80 SERIES 3.0″ LIFT WITH 220LBS LOAD
I decided to leave the 20mm spacer in just to see how it looked. I'm now at 24" front. I know it's an unpopular opinion here but I actually really like this stance. Probably going to leave the spacer in and see if it settles any more. Plus I have a little room for an ARB and a winch down the road.
Oh and for anyone with a RHD cruiser, I put the taller spring on the driver side even though it's labeled left side. Between the weight of the driver and the spare tire carrier on the driver's side, it needs the additional height. Seems to be perfectly level with that setup.
Bled the brakes and took it for a drive. Very happy with the driving manners now - everyone is right when they say the Delta arms and panhard bracket really change things. The cruiser feels more planted and less twitchy. Steering is improved.
Obligatory "I finished my project for the day and want a pic but it's too dark" pics:
- Thread starter
- #565
Thanks man!Your cruiser is absolutely amazing
I’ve been going back and forth on an ARB bumper. I like the utility and look but I also like how clean the stock bumper looks. I need to figure out if I can fit a hidden winch with the FMIC
I love the look of the arb bumpers on 80s series. Not too bulky.
Looks really good. I am seriously looking at the DeltaVS radius arms for my 80.
- Thread starter
- #568
You won’t regret it!
I have no doubt about that. I have their rear panhard bracket and love it.
Looks sharp! Nice stance and dimensions.
I have been thinking of doing a lift via Delta parts. Though, I am running 33’s so a 2” lift should be sufficient.
I’ll need to figure out springs/shocks as it is a 1hdt with factory winch and soon an ARB.
I have been thinking of doing a lift via Delta parts. Though, I am running 33’s so a 2” lift should be sufficient.
I’ll need to figure out springs/shocks as it is a 1hdt with factory winch and soon an ARB.
I am partial to the OEM look. 12k hidden winch upfront and 20 gallon extra gas tank in the back. BIOR sliders with OEM look. Sure, not as durable if you smash into something or get smashed into.
I see a new Land Cruiser driver in the making
- Thread starter
- #573
Yeah that's clean, great setup! Bellfab interior tire carrier?
FMC80
SILVER Star
I think the new springs with the added spacer looks solid! Maybe more daytime pics are in order 
- Thread starter
- #576
Mounting the KMC beadlocks. Here's the process for anyone interested -
Start by installing a valve stem, I'm using a puller tool from Amazon
I'm using Ru-Glyde for a tire lube and used a sponge to apply lube to the back bead. Then slip it over the wheel, kneeling on the tire to pop it down past the front face of the wheel.
Line up the yellow dot on the tire with the valve stem. Then using plastic trim tools - or screwdrivers if the bead isn't cooperating - seat the front bead.
Set the wheel/tire on top of an upside down 5 gallon bucket and place the beadlock ring on the wheel -
Some tires have thicker beads so you may need to use a spacer between the ring and the wheel. At first I thought I might - this was the gap:
But I talked to my buddy who runs these wheels with 40s on his Jeep and he said to try cranking them down first as KMC only sells 1/4" spacers which is a lot larger than needed here. He had to use spacers with some Mickey Thompsons, but not some other brands of tires.
I started by adding 4 bolts and cranked them down in a star pattern. No pic but after that I added an additional 4 bolts to split the difference and repeated the process until the ring was touching the wheel. No spacer needed.
I don't plan on dailying this in the winter, but I do like to take trips down south in the winter so road salt will be a little bit of an issue. Since these are steel bolts going into an aluminum wheel, I'm trying out a new (to me) kind of anti-seize called Ultra Tef-Gel that is made to protect against galvanic corrosion.
I put a little on each bolt and finished installing the rest of the bolts.
Torque spec was 32 ft-lbs dry, or reduce by 25% with anti-seize. So 24 ft-lbs all the way around twice and we're good to go.
Took me about 3 hours for 2 wheels. Haven't seated the inner beads yet because it was 1am when I wrapped up and didn't want to run the air compressor.
Overall not a bad process. My last set of beadlocks were Hutchinson Rock Monsters and while I loved how bomb proof they were, I didn't love the weight. The install process was also easier on these KMCs vs wrestling with the Hutchinson inner beadlock. Honestly a nice meditative activity. Not getting all dirty wrenching under the truck, throw on some music and get to work. 3 more to go.
Start by installing a valve stem, I'm using a puller tool from Amazon
I'm using Ru-Glyde for a tire lube and used a sponge to apply lube to the back bead. Then slip it over the wheel, kneeling on the tire to pop it down past the front face of the wheel.
Line up the yellow dot on the tire with the valve stem. Then using plastic trim tools - or screwdrivers if the bead isn't cooperating - seat the front bead.
Set the wheel/tire on top of an upside down 5 gallon bucket and place the beadlock ring on the wheel -
Some tires have thicker beads so you may need to use a spacer between the ring and the wheel. At first I thought I might - this was the gap:
But I talked to my buddy who runs these wheels with 40s on his Jeep and he said to try cranking them down first as KMC only sells 1/4" spacers which is a lot larger than needed here. He had to use spacers with some Mickey Thompsons, but not some other brands of tires.
I started by adding 4 bolts and cranked them down in a star pattern. No pic but after that I added an additional 4 bolts to split the difference and repeated the process until the ring was touching the wheel. No spacer needed.
I don't plan on dailying this in the winter, but I do like to take trips down south in the winter so road salt will be a little bit of an issue. Since these are steel bolts going into an aluminum wheel, I'm trying out a new (to me) kind of anti-seize called Ultra Tef-Gel that is made to protect against galvanic corrosion.
I put a little on each bolt and finished installing the rest of the bolts.
Torque spec was 32 ft-lbs dry, or reduce by 25% with anti-seize. So 24 ft-lbs all the way around twice and we're good to go.
Took me about 3 hours for 2 wheels. Haven't seated the inner beads yet because it was 1am when I wrapped up and didn't want to run the air compressor.
Overall not a bad process. My last set of beadlocks were Hutchinson Rock Monsters and while I loved how bomb proof they were, I didn't love the weight. The install process was also easier on these KMCs vs wrestling with the Hutchinson inner beadlock. Honestly a nice meditative activity. Not getting all dirty wrenching under the truck, throw on some music and get to work. 3 more to go.
Last edited:
Those look amazing. How much heavier are these wheels compared to the stock 16s?Mounting the KMC beadlocks. Here's the process for anyone interested -
Start by installing a valve stem, I'm using a puller tool from Amazon
I'm using Ru-Glyde for a tire lube and used a sponge to apply lube to the back bead. Then slip it over the wheel, kneeling on the tire to pop it down past the front face of the wheel.
Line up the yellow dot on the tire with the valve stem. Then using plastic trim tools - or screwdrivers if the bead isn't cooperating - seat the front bead.
Set the wheel/tire on top of an upside down 5 gallon bucket and place the beadlock ring on the wheel -
Some tires have thicker beads so you may need to use a spacer between the ring and the wheel. At first I thought I might - this was the gap:
But I talked to my buddy who runs these wheels with 40s on his Jeep and he said to try cranking them down first as KMC only sells 1/4" spacers which is a lot larger than needed here. He had to use spacers with some Mickey Thompsons, but not some other brands of tires.
I started by adding 4 bolts and cranked them down in a star pattern. No pic but after that I added an additional 4 bolts to split the difference and repeated the process until the ring was touching the wheel. No spacer needed.
I don't plan on dailying this in the winter, but I do like to take trips down south in the winter so road salt will be a little bit of an issue. Since these are steel bolts going into an aluminum wheel, I'm trying out a new (to me) kind of anti-seize called Ultra Tef-Gel that is made to protect against galvanic corrosion.
I put a little on each bolt and finished installing the rest of the bolts.
Torque spec was 32 ft-lbs dry, or reduce by 25% with anti-seize. So 24 ft-lbs all the way around twice and we're good to go.
Took me about 3 hours for 2 wheels. Haven't seated the inner beads yet because it was 1am when I wrapped up and didn't want to run the air compressor.
Overall not a bad process. My last set of beadlocks were Hutchinson Rock Monsters and while I loved how bomb proof they were, I didn't love the weight. The install process was also easier on these KMCs vs wrestling with the Hutchinson inner beadlock. Honestly a nice meditative activity. Not getting all dirty wrenching under the truck, throw on some music and get to work. 3 more to go.
- Thread starter
- #578
I posted the weights a page back. OEM = 21 lbs, KMC Mesa Forged = 31 lbs w/ ring and hardware.
But I should be saving about 3 lbs by moving from 315/75r16 to 35x12.5r17 - for a total of +7 lbs per corner. Not the worst
I have noticed the little yellow dots on some tires before but never knew what they were for.
Care to explain why you line it up with the valve stem?
I also use the ultra Tef-gel it works well but it’s a big mess when you need to change a tire
I was tempted to buy all new hardware it was that bad.
I also found that I like to start all the bolts then work My way around the wheel one bolt right after another and only tightening a little bit.
I find that this keeps equal pressure on the ring with less deformity of the ring.
Care to explain why you line it up with the valve stem?
I also use the ultra Tef-gel it works well but it’s a big mess when you need to change a tire
I was tempted to buy all new hardware it was that bad.
I also found that I like to start all the bolts then work My way around the wheel one bolt right after another and only tightening a little bit.
I find that this keeps equal pressure on the ring with less deformity of the ring.
- Thread starter
- #580
As far as I know, yellow is the lightest point on the tire, so if you line it up with the valve stem it should make balancing easier since the valve stem adds a little weight.
What Does a Red or Yellow Dot on Your Tires Mean?
If you had new tires installed recently, red and yellow paint dots on the sidewall are perfectly normal. Here's why they're there.
www.familyhandyman.com
Good to know on the Tef-Gel. We'll see how it is next time around - is it just sticky/goopy? Did it work otherwise?
And yeah that sounds like a solid method, I was alway taught star pattern but I may try your method next. I'm not an expert by any means so always happy to learn new techniques
