Dmouse's HDJ81 Build (1 Viewer)

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Then it's $480 for shipping. Pretty steep shipping cost.
Sorry for the misinformation then. Mine must've been in the US already. I paid $100 shipping and no tax.
 
Congratulations! I am about three years into my HDJ81 build.

Here's a great source for your drivetrain and suspension... Cruiser Outfitters - https://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/ and Cruiser Teq | Land Cruiser Specialists Powered by Cruiser Outfitters - https://cruiserteq.com/ (same shop)
For JDM specific...https://partsouq.com/
I got my 3" stainless exhaust from here: MANTA EXHAUSTS - https://evergreenoffroad.com/collections/manta-exhausts
Cheers,
GregView attachment 3715276
What tires and rims are those?
 
Do you guys think it would be worth to the marks part time swap at the same time as the knuckle rebuild? Going to be in there already
 
JDM Steel wheels. I repainted them with Krylon Dark Metal Metallic paint
Toyota 42601-60362
Cooper ST/Maxx 255/85-16. These are my favorite tires-have had BFG, Toyo, Goodyear and Nitto. These have lasted longer, are quieter and better all around for noise, dirt, rocks, wet and snow, IMO. I'm currently over 30,000 miles on this set with lots of tread to go.
Cheers,
Greg
They look great and the pricing is pretty good. I was already planning to go with 255/85r16 I'll check out the Coopers sound good all around.

I think I'll stick with the alloys for now, already spending a decent amount on parts.
 
Do you guys think it would be worth to the marks part time swap at the same time as the knuckle rebuild? Going to be in there already

To gain what?

It's that or save the money and get TJM diff locks
Yes! Do this!

I would lie to put TJM Pro-lockers in my cruiser at some point.

They are far more beneficial than downgrading to part-time 4wd
 
To gain what?


Yes! Do this!

I would lie to put TJM Pro-lockers in my cruiser at some point.

They are far more beneficial than downgrading to part-time 4wd
Mainly for the handling characteristics of PT. I picked up a kit off the classifieds for a decent price so thought why not.

After talking with a TJM dealer is seems TJM has pulled out of the US. So I am now thinking about going with Eaton ELockers. Let me know if you have any other recommendations.

I'm already going to have the axles out. So I might as well toss in a locker.
 
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Mainly for the handling of PT

Part time conversion is a controversial topic.

My personal opinion, keep it as is, and learn how to make the most of AWD handling. It feels different, but has definite advantages.

You can experience the PT handling by removing your front driveshaft;
lock the CDL;
remove drive flanges of the front hub, and duct tape over the end of the hub.
Drive it like this for a while.

I've personally had a situation where the extra traction and steering control of the AWD 80 allowed me to avoid a serious collision.
I also like the traction when driving on windy roads with questionable surface conditions
 
Part time conversion is a controversial topic.
Part of my reasoning is I'm in Southern California so it takes a lot of street driving just for me to get to the dirt.
That's a shame. They are definitely one of the more expensive options.
It really is I have been looking at them for a while now and after calling it seems they pulled out around April. Something about mismanagement with the US sales team.

Can easily get them shipped from AUS but now I'm thinking the Eaton might be the way to go for me. Have seen plenty of good reviews. Just more money. Debating on upgrading the CVs when doing the locker. While doing the knuckle rebuild it will be simple to pull the third member. Also have the parts for the rear axle rebuild.
 
Mainly the on road handling characteristics and fuel mileage gain.

Decided to do the Eaton Elockers, planning to do an OEM locker switch. Anyone know a good source?
@Delta VS is aways fast to ship...OEM part though which is still widely available.


So, I think you scored the spool kit that I was looking at, but didn't need some of the listed parts in the classifieds. It got me to thinking more and doing some research on my own even though I didn't get that one and decided to order a kit from @cruiseroutfit to install since my case is apart for the 10% under drive at the moment (got the spool yesterday, installing today).

For my $.02, I'm going to be pulling a M101A2 military trailer for my long weekend camping trips, so hoping that it'll help with the power a bit for towing...one of those speculated rumors that I've heard that does improve some. Another thing for me personally is that I may have a slightly bent axle housing. I torqued mine a year ago on a trail trip and it bent my radius arm mount on the passenger side, 6 months later, my brand new axle seal that I installed with the Longfield 30 spline axles gave me birf soup on the same side. I've since replaced and need to check the birf again now that I have several hundred miles on it to see if it's getting soupy again. Point being, if I did bend the axle enough to make the seal leak, a part time kit killing the rotating parts except for trail time could buy me some time on an axle housing replacement. I'm going to get an alignment check after I get the case back in, which should give me an indication if the housing is bent or I just did a crappy job installing the first (OEM) seal.... 🦀 🦀
 
fuel mileage gain.
This is minimal at best. I doubt you'd ever recoup the cost of the conversion.

I'd love to see someone do some accurate before and after fuel mileage logging over at least 1000 miles each set up
I've never seen anyone actually log mileage on a way that's meaningful.

For my experience, having the front hubs and diff fully disconnected for months of daily driving, the same daily commute, i never noticed any significant change in fuel use. I also didn't track it to the last cent :meh:

There is no noticeable chagrin in power available either.
The vehicle mass doesn't change. Engine power doesn't change. The only change is a small reduction in friction through the front diff, which i don't think is enough to be noticeable at all.


Mainly the on road handling characteristics

Again, having driven all my landcruisers in rear wheel drive only format, I don't think there's a positive change in rear wheel drive handling.

In fulltime mode, you gain control and traction in adverse conditions.
I tend to drive vehicles fairly hard. I'll push things through corners etc. In fulltime 4wd, I've broken traction with the front cornering on wet roads, and been able to drive out of a slide many times in scenarios where a rear wheel drive would not.
Same on dirt. I've had my 80 get out of shape on the dirt many times, and AWD allows you to drive out of a slide where 2wd would not.

AWD will pull rhe front through/into a turn, where as rear wheel drive will tend to push the front out of a corner.

There's good reasons why WRC Rally cars are all 4wd.
 
Does 4wd vs 2wd feel different?

Yes, in some situations it does for sure, particularly if you're not used to an AWD.
AWD can be driven to your advantage with the right driving techniques.

For your average soccer mum, they'll never know different, although if things get hairy, AWD might just keep they out of a wreck
 
Mainly the on road handling characteristics and fuel mileage gain.

Decided to do the Eaton Elockers, planning to do an OEM locker switch. Anyone know a good source?
If you go through with the part time set up, if you can share any fuel mileage (gains or losses) that would be very helpful.
 
If you go through with the part time set up, if you can share any fuel mileage (gains or losses) that would be very helpful.

I'd love to see someone use a fuel tracking app, and do meaningful before/after figures.

"One tank, and I got an extra 50 miles" is a sugar pill.
 

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