i have a 1972 FJ40 with new bump stop on spare tire and i also slipped a peice of rubber beneath the latch where it meets with the rear swing-out door. I live on dirt roads and this is the only nosie coming out of my FJ BUT it is really noticable. saw something about an axe handle protector???
how do i stop spare tire carrier from rattling?
- Thread starter nacho
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Ive seen where guys replace everything on the hinges. What size spare? Ive got a 33 on mine and it rattles like crazy. My quick fix is a tiedown hooked on the wheel and on the license plate bracket. Works for me until i can afford to get a bumper/tire carrier combo.
I am working on a '78 and it has a lot of play in the top hinge. I've seen some threads on mud where guys have made greasable hinge pins, maybe one of you can explain.
I wrapped the hook that attaches to the bumper with electrical tape and that fixed my rattling.
I could NEVER get mine to stop rattling. It beats against the lower doors, and cause the lower doors to move as well. The pin for the lower door has play in the hole that keeps the door closed.
I replaced my carrier with an after market set up. MUCH better...
Shawn
I replaced my carrier with an after market set up. MUCH better...
Shawn
that's how my truck came, too - no rattling
I haven't had this issue since I don't mount my spare on the rack, but I have seen others use a small scissor jack behind the spare and have it cranked for some pressure. Works for them....
Stuff a tennis ball inbetween the carrier and the body before latching the carrier closed.
I took an eye bolt, hooked it to the carrier and ran it through a hole (toward the bottom of the door) that was already in the door. Using a rubber washer, steel washer and a wing nut to tighten everything. Not an ideal solution as that door can't be used without undoing everything but it does keep the carrier from pushing on the top of the door and eliminates the noise. This was meant as a temporary solution until I found a more permanent but haven't found one yet.
I like the tennis ball idea - might have to give that a shot.
Kevin
I like the tennis ball idea - might have to give that a shot.
Kevin
- Thread starter
- #10
i am running a 33x10.50x15 BFG mud tire. i already added weather stripping kit from spector off road (or CCOC) and it helped tremendously. it all seems to be in the latch on tire carrier 'swing away" . i am going to try wrapping with bicycle tire tubing before closing so there is no metal to meatl and see how it works.
I just replaced the bushings on my '78 with new ones from Cruiser Dan. He had to get them from Japan. With a 33x9.5 tire it's quiet for now. The bushings are pretty minimal, so I don't have high hopes they're going to last a lifetime, and you have to take a grinder to the welds on the hinges to get the pins out.
ON my 1978, I tried oiling the pins because mine also squeaked. I also tried removing some air from the 33" tire and it seemed to absorb some of the vibration since it contacted the tube. I eventually got tired of the carrier being noisy, I removed it and replaced it with a used 4+ Plus carrier a friend had for sale. I know these are pricey, but now it is silent.
The stock carrier is just not made for heavier, larger tires.
The stock carrier is just not made for heavier, larger tires.
Got this out of Grainger Catalog works great
Machine Leveling Mount, 500 Lb Max Cap - Vibration Isolator Pads - Mounts and Vibration Control - Material Handling : Grainger Industrial Supply
Machine Leveling Mount, 500 Lb Max Cap - Vibration Isolator Pads - Mounts and Vibration Control - Material Handling : Grainger Industrial Supply
bsevans
Focus on the Journey
You could have purchased bushings that are over 3 times longer for the two that fit the upper hinge. I rebuilt mine almost 10 years ago and it does not rattle. I have a 33-10.50x15 mounted. You can buy a variety of engineered plastic headed bushings from McMaster-Carr. The secret is to put as long a bushing in as the mount can accept. The longer the bushing, the longer the life due to the load being distributed over a longer surface. I also used a bronze thrust washer.
Does the leveling mount push on the door as much as the original one that pushed against the top of the door? Mine are a bit out of whack from being pushed at the top.
BTW, I ordered one of these today - thanks for the pointer. Maybe I can install it this weekend.
Kevin
BTW, I ordered one of these today - thanks for the pointer. Maybe I can install it this weekend.
Kevin
Get creative.
I have done everything from weld more metal onto the latches to heat and bend in the hooks. Just last week I made my own "machine leveling mount" out of $2 of rubber and M6X1.0 hardware.
The worst of my creations was a "temporary" (yea, about 20 years ago) wood block spacer to fix the beat up door.
For minor rubs, I've used shoe goo and neoprene mouse pad -- it takes a hood about 10 years to wear through, but it's pretty much free.
I have done everything from weld more metal onto the latches to heat and bend in the hooks. Just last week I made my own "machine leveling mount" out of $2 of rubber and M6X1.0 hardware.
The worst of my creations was a "temporary" (yea, about 20 years ago) wood block spacer to fix the beat up door.
For minor rubs, I've used shoe goo and neoprene mouse pad -- it takes a hood about 10 years to wear through, but it's pretty much free.
Have you got specs or part numbers? I didn't weld mine back up yet, so the repair window is still open.
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The really simple fix that worked on my '82 was to adjust the bumper pad on the rear sill downwards so that it takes a little effort to push the carrier in before latching. It does not rattle any longer... I have no idea if that trick would work on the earlier model carriers.
bsevans
Focus on the Journey
Weld? There was no welding involving the pins. They are pressed in only. You would have to measure the pin OD and the ID of the hinge. It has been a long time since I did this repair. I'm pretty sure that I have a bag of these out in the shop (minimum buy). I just had surgery and was told by the surgeon to stay out of my shop.
Most of us are under the impression that the welds on the mounts must be ground away so that the hinge can be pried open and re-welded to close them up again after the bushings are replaced. If the pins can be pressed out then that is good news!
