how do i stop spare tire carrier from rattling?
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Pleasure . Yes they are custom made and the bushes are vesconite/nylon
I'm thinking of just going with a 1/2 inch SS lag bolt instead of this custom pin. I can find the bushings from Mcmaster/carr. Anyone else do it this way?
bsevans
Focus on the Journey
Pleasure . Yes they are custom made and the bushes are vesconite/nylon
My pin was a factory replacement.
I bought some 1/8" rubber sheeting from McMaster Carr and cut out some "feet" for each part the has metal against metal, it seems to keep my tire carrier from rattling and its a cheap fit, so its worth trying
Bringing back an older thread...
Do you have a picture of this set-up that you could share? Thanks.
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Guys,
I can't wait to get my rig back on the road to see if I can distiguish a spare tire rattle from any other noise in the rig
. These are some great ideas I just wish that I could get the time to focus on the small details like this.
I can't wait to get my rig back on the road to see if I can distiguish a spare tire rattle from any other noise in the rig
. These are some great ideas I just wish that I could get the time to focus on the small details like this.
bsevans
Focus on the Journey
Well, first I want to apologies for not getting back to those that wanted the bushings I had left over from the rebuild. Sorry to say that after a number of years I cannot find the leftover bushings.
Having said that, I sat down and asked myself how I would do this rebuild if new pins were not available. Here is what I came up with. You can get a SS shoulder bolt that is 5/8" OD by 7" shoulder length with an additional 3/4" of 1/2-13 thread. The head is hex socket using a 5/16" hex wrench. The flange bushings available that will fit the hinge ID have a 3/4" OD x 5/8" ID. You can get these in a couple types of plastic and they run $4 to $6 each for 3/4" length. You can also get flange bushings in bronze that are 1" in length for $2 to $8. Since this set up is easily re-buildable I would use plastic PTFE flange bushings.
Since the 7" length of the SS shoulder is about 1/8" to 1/4" short of the bottom, based on my current setup that uses two PTFE flange bushings with an 1/8" head height and a 1/8" thick bronze bushing between the hinge halves. I would use a low head nylock nut. If the 5/8" shoulder diameter is loose in the bottom half of the hinge which is not suppose to rotate, I would turn the bolt on a lath with a spiral wheel knurling tool using 40 or 50 threads per inch to slightly increase the OD on the section of the shoulder in the lower hinge half only. If on the other hand the bottom is ID is undersized due to rust then carefully drill it out. If you use this setup remember to put anti-seize on the threads. I would adjust the length of the hinge with bronze bushings that are 1/16" or !/8" in thickness.
I found these components at McMaster-Carr and here are the part numbers.
18-8 Stainless Steel Shoulder Screw 5/8" Shoulder Dia, 7" L Shoulder, 1/2"-13 Thrd; p/n 90298A825; page 3086; $40.77.
PTFE Flanged Sleeve Bearing for 5/8" Shaft Dia, 3/4" OD, 3/4" O'all Length; p/n 2706T34; page 1123, $5.54 each for a total of $11.08.
18-8 SS Nylon-Insert Thin Hex Locknut 1/2"-13 Thread Size, 3/4" Width, 5/16" Height, packs of 10; p/n 90101A252; page 3183; $9.98.
If you think the cost of the shoulder bolt is high then compare it with what the factory pin cost when it was available.
If you choose to go this route then confirm the overall length of the hinge set and that the ID of your upper hinge will work with these bushings before you invest in the hardware cost.
Having said that, I sat down and asked myself how I would do this rebuild if new pins were not available. Here is what I came up with. You can get a SS shoulder bolt that is 5/8" OD by 7" shoulder length with an additional 3/4" of 1/2-13 thread. The head is hex socket using a 5/16" hex wrench. The flange bushings available that will fit the hinge ID have a 3/4" OD x 5/8" ID. You can get these in a couple types of plastic and they run $4 to $6 each for 3/4" length. You can also get flange bushings in bronze that are 1" in length for $2 to $8. Since this set up is easily re-buildable I would use plastic PTFE flange bushings.
Since the 7" length of the SS shoulder is about 1/8" to 1/4" short of the bottom, based on my current setup that uses two PTFE flange bushings with an 1/8" head height and a 1/8" thick bronze bushing between the hinge halves. I would use a low head nylock nut. If the 5/8" shoulder diameter is loose in the bottom half of the hinge which is not suppose to rotate, I would turn the bolt on a lath with a spiral wheel knurling tool using 40 or 50 threads per inch to slightly increase the OD on the section of the shoulder in the lower hinge half only. If on the other hand the bottom is ID is undersized due to rust then carefully drill it out. If you use this setup remember to put anti-seize on the threads. I would adjust the length of the hinge with bronze bushings that are 1/16" or !/8" in thickness.
I found these components at McMaster-Carr and here are the part numbers.
18-8 Stainless Steel Shoulder Screw 5/8" Shoulder Dia, 7" L Shoulder, 1/2"-13 Thrd; p/n 90298A825; page 3086; $40.77.
PTFE Flanged Sleeve Bearing for 5/8" Shaft Dia, 3/4" OD, 3/4" O'all Length; p/n 2706T34; page 1123, $5.54 each for a total of $11.08.
18-8 SS Nylon-Insert Thin Hex Locknut 1/2"-13 Thread Size, 3/4" Width, 5/16" Height, packs of 10; p/n 90101A252; page 3183; $9.98.
If you think the cost of the shoulder bolt is high then compare it with what the factory pin cost when it was available.
If you choose to go this route then confirm the overall length of the hinge set and that the ID of your upper hinge will work with these bushings before you invest in the hardware cost.
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fjwagon
SILVER Star
That is exacty what I did as temp fix, tennis ball, went out and bought the toyota nylon bushings and got brass fittings that were close enough and a friend from work was kind enough to turned them down to size. Installed grease zerks works like at champ. I can also remove it if Ihave to replace the bushings. The nylon will fail after a while especially if you are running a heavier than intended wheel.
This is for an 82 fj40…I think the dimensions will be different for 79 and definately different for a 72. But incase someone needs it for an82 here are they are.
For 16mm pin, bushing p/n 90386-16004-bush
OD of pin is 16mm
bushing itself inside diameter is 16.07mm
bushing OD is 19.08mm
Thickness of bushing is 1.59mm
For 20 mm pin bushing P/N 90386-20002 bush
OD of pin is 20mm
bushing itself inside diameter is 20.08mm
outside diameter on bushing is 22.99mm
thickness of bushing is 1.60mm
3511359] Out side flange is 31.78mm
thickness of flange is 1.27mm
And I have the black piece of rubber that attaches to the tire carrier. It’s located tire carrier and serves as a mini bumper to protect the door when it's in the open position. P/N 51917-90301 bumper, spare wheel
This is for an 82 fj40…I think the dimensions will be different for 79 and definately different for a 72. But incase someone needs it for an82 here are they are.
For 16mm pin, bushing p/n 90386-16004-bush
OD of pin is 16mm
bushing itself inside diameter is 16.07mm
bushing OD is 19.08mm
Thickness of bushing is 1.59mm
For 20 mm pin bushing P/N 90386-20002 bush
OD of pin is 20mm
bushing itself inside diameter is 20.08mm
outside diameter on bushing is 22.99mm
thickness of bushing is 1.60mm
3511359] Out side flange is 31.78mm
thickness of flange is 1.27mm
And I have the black piece of rubber that attaches to the tire carrier. It’s located tire carrier and serves as a mini bumper to protect the door when it's in the open position. P/N 51917-90301 bumper, spare wheel
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Perhaps too simple
I have been using this since 1981 when mine started making noise. I had several sheets of "Ethafoam", this is the material used under the gymnastic floors. It is closed cell foam that has great resistance to compression. I just took a 12 inch piece and folded it in half and put this between the tire carrier and the back door....you have to lean on the tire to close it but it does not vibrate any longer. The same foam is used in life vests and the pads you can buy in the garden section of Lowes or Home depot to save your knees from garden work.
Dwight
PS as for it collecting dust and dirt just take it off every time you wash your cruiser and wash it off.
I have been using this since 1981 when mine started making noise. I had several sheets of "Ethafoam", this is the material used under the gymnastic floors. It is closed cell foam that has great resistance to compression. I just took a 12 inch piece and folded it in half and put this between the tire carrier and the back door....you have to lean on the tire to close it but it does not vibrate any longer. The same foam is used in life vests and the pads you can buy in the garden section of Lowes or Home depot to save your knees from garden work.
Dwight
PS as for it collecting dust and dirt just take it off every time you wash your cruiser and wash it off.
When my 78 was running I used an old dipped foam life preserver that got torn in half....worked well.....but the engineer in me hated it.
Coming in late on this thread but had to say that I have had my tennis ball wedged in their for over 5 years now and still works.
Hey! lol Did you take my tennis ball!
THIS is genius - ordered earlier this week, installed today, no more rattle! Thank you!
Bought the Grainger isolation pad yesterday and installed last night on my '77. Other than the trickiness of drilling a 1/2" hole through the round-tube of the carrier, it was a piece-o-cake. Works great! Will paint it flat black in the future, and it'll disappear. Thanks for the idea.
The best solution i came up with was to drill a hole in the top of the barn door and weld a flange nut in it. then get a wheel stud to connect the tire carrier with the bump stop hole to the nut on the barn door. the only draw back is you can't open that side of the barn doors without unscrewing the wheel stud? It does however get rid of 95% of the rattle unless you hit a really big pothole. Also a heavy-duty piece of rubber between the bottom of the carrier and the hook latch stops any squeaking
Who sells the rubber pads that go between the body and the tire rack mounting locations? Do they still have OEM parts for this?
