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Did the bryke racing one. Ended up going with a OEM rubber one. It squealed a lot. I even soaked the bearing in motor oil before I installed it.
once you take the bolts out it should slide down enough to just fold the joint out of the way... once you do that the lower part of the joint (the rubber disk part) should just slide right off the shaft, leaving a bare shaft to unbolt your seal and slide off, slide the new one on...anyone have any issues separating the steering coupling? cannot separate it to replace seal
once you take the bolts out it should slide down enough to just fold the joint out of the way... once you do that the lower part of the joint (the rubber disk part) should just slide right off the shaft, leaving a bare shaft to unbolt your seal and slide off, slide the new one on...
yea man, once you undo the nuts the bolts just slide out... hit 'em with the end of your wrench they'll fall right out... might be a little bound up in there preventing them from falling out...Ohhh I never took the bolts out. Only undid the nuts. Was there a easy way to remove the two bolts? I did try a g clamp but got the s***s and gave up in the end.
Thanks for your help
My fix with a piece of cardboard cut to size with a slit to fit over the steering shaft then wrapped in almn. ducting tape is still working almost a year later. It's not a perfect repair but for zero dollars since I had both items laying around it's better than getting blasted with hot air going down the freeway.
Goes quick once you start. With the Cummins the CCV tube is right under it and sitting in traffic with the windows up in the winter I would get a nice diesel smell in the cab. I think I waited a year with it sitting on the bench before I got around to it.I need to do this. Have two sitting in my parts bin waiting to be installed...