I bought one when @LandCruiserPhil posted his thread about it. It's been sitting since. I bought another for my 93 right after I got it in March. I should've done it when I was replacing the fuel filter. Or knock sensors...
Hot drivers feet? This may be your fix.
- Thread starter LandCruiserPhil
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I bought one when @LandCruiserPhil posted his thread about it. It's been sitting since. I bought another for my 93 right after I got it in March. I should've done it when I was replacing the fuel filter. Or knock sensors...
It literally takes about 20 minutes. Very quick. I replaced it on my old LX450 and my '92.
I put some chassis grease on the shaft and inner part of the seal. Not sure if that will help or hurt anything...
I put some chassis grease on the shaft and inner part of the seal. Not sure if that will help or hurt anything...
Did this with OEM this afternoon.
Another benefit, especially in New England, is it keeps moisture out. The coupler and other pieces inside the footwell were starting to rust!
Another benefit, especially in New England, is it keeps moisture out. The coupler and other pieces inside the footwell were starting to rust!
This is very therapeutic, thank you guys 
The first few posts have pics. I thought same as you after reading the instructions but once you're in there it's perfectly clear what the heck is going on. It's hard to screw it up; even for me!
Just done with an OEM, 25 min tops including a 
break. And I was wondering how I'd smell all the traffic pollution when I get to drive in the Big Mango, Cairo ? Greased the splines also while at it for next time, all went extremely smooth.
Thanks Phil
25 min tops including a break. And I was wondering how I'd smell all the traffic pollution when I get to drive in the Big Mango, Cairo ? Greased the splines also while at it for next time, all went extremely smooth.Tighten the seal bolts last as the seal bolt holes have some wiggle room to allow it to seat well with no stress to the rubber when everything above it is tightened properly.
Thanks Phil
For those who've done the bearing option, aside from some squeaks, what have the long term results been? My seal is due for replacement, but the bearing option has my attention.
Installed the bearing a few years ago, seems fine to me...not even a squeak
My shaft seal seems to be glued/sealed to the firewall. Has anyone had trouble sliding the seal off the shaft?
I did the bearing solution ~2yrs ago, no negative effects at all.
Seems the Bryke Racing shaft bearing unit is still a current product so I'm going to try one out as my 80's steering shaft seal has died yet again.
Seems there are much more expensive ones (Borgeson brand?) at triple the price as well.
Seems there are much more expensive ones (Borgeson brand?) at triple the price as well.
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- Thread starter
- #193
They dont last forever but its hard to complain after 7 years almost to the date
I'm re-visiting this at the moment and have ordered a couple of UCFL-204 bearing units to see if I can use one of them mounted behind (inside) a factory seal piece so the top end of the shaft does not flap around where it meets up with the flex-joint.
They're probably cheap chinese bearings not good quality ones just like all the other bearing units you see on Ebay but anything that improves on Toyota's strange engineering decisions for the steering shaft is going to be a good thing.
They're probably cheap chinese bearings not good quality ones just like all the other bearing units you see on Ebay but anything that improves on Toyota's strange engineering decisions for the steering shaft is going to be a good thing.
Just did this. Worst job ever for someone with bad knees, but done and hopefully bring me closer to knee replacement.
The cheap UCFL-204's were way too big and chunky and didn't match the bolt spacing of the factory seal. The Sweet # 405-10405 'lightweight' 3/4" bearing units are really high quality but their bolt hole spacing is smaller than the factory seal.
Koyo UCFL-204 cheap Chinese knock-off copy (!) vs Toyota # 45292-35050 :
pic page
Sweet # SWE405-10405 vs Toyota # 45292-35050 :
pic page
It sure is a bugger of job but really only because of having to do it contorted under the dash.
Craig.
Koyo UCFL-204 cheap Chinese knock-off copy (!) vs Toyota # 45292-35050 :
pic page
Sweet # SWE405-10405 vs Toyota # 45292-35050 :
pic page
It sure is a bugger of job but really only because of having to do it contorted under the dash.
Craig.
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Another win thanks to @LandCruiserPhil
I recently did the work to fit a bearing unit in conjunction with a new Toyota seal - now it's got both co-existing. So far going good.
Turned out the only bearing units that would work are the type with the two-piece steel 'clamp'. Good thing with that is it allows the bearing to be held in place at a slightly different angle to the seal face cutout of the Toyota factory place that the seal mounts onto and that allows fine-tuning as the steering shaft doesn't come through the seal directly in line perpendicular to the plane of the hole where the seal goes.
This is the bearing unit I finally settled on. A bit pricey but the bearings look to be better quality than the el-cheapo variants of these.
BORGESON S/S STEERING SHAFT SUPPORT BEARING BOR700010 FOR 3/4" STEERING SHAFT | eBay
This is how I mocked it up to work out the right bolt length, how to configure nuts/washers as spacers, etc. before installing everything into the vehicle:
pic page
This is with everything put back as I was checking and re-checking that nothing was fouled or binding and that I had all the fastener configuration right.
pic page
Don't know how it will go long-term but it stops the top end of the middle shaft flapping around and holds it steady where it passes through the Toyota seal piece. I can get a plastic squirty tube from my preferred aerosol grease can (Wurth HHS-2000 at present) to spray the shaft inside the seal piece to keep it lubed up.
Craig.
Turned out the only bearing units that would work are the type with the two-piece steel 'clamp'. Good thing with that is it allows the bearing to be held in place at a slightly different angle to the seal face cutout of the Toyota factory place that the seal mounts onto and that allows fine-tuning as the steering shaft doesn't come through the seal directly in line perpendicular to the plane of the hole where the seal goes.
This is the bearing unit I finally settled on. A bit pricey but the bearings look to be better quality than the el-cheapo variants of these.
BORGESON S/S STEERING SHAFT SUPPORT BEARING BOR700010 FOR 3/4" STEERING SHAFT | eBay
This is how I mocked it up to work out the right bolt length, how to configure nuts/washers as spacers, etc. before installing everything into the vehicle:
pic page
This is with everything put back as I was checking and re-checking that nothing was fouled or binding and that I had all the fastener configuration right.
pic page
Don't know how it will go long-term but it stops the top end of the middle shaft flapping around and holds it steady where it passes through the Toyota seal piece. I can get a plastic squirty tube from my preferred aerosol grease can (Wurth HHS-2000 at present) to spray the shaft inside the seal piece to keep it lubed up.
Craig.
Someone suggested re-enforcing the common failure point with RTV, so I gave a try.
Seems to work fine. Still flexible.
Wiped the groove out first with xylene and MEK on a Q-Tip to enhance adhesion.
Spooged in black gasket RTV with the tip of a painters pallet knife, round and round, until it was smooth.
We'll see in a few years whether it helps or not.
Seems to work fine. Still flexible.
Wiped the groove out first with xylene and MEK on a Q-Tip to enhance adhesion.
Spooged in black gasket RTV with the tip of a painters pallet knife, round and round, until it was smooth.
We'll see in a few years whether it helps or not.
Seems like a decent idea.