Hot drivers feet? This may be your fix. (2 Viewers)

[Kernal]

Someone (? @NLXTACY ) needs to design/build a heavier duty version; the rubber on the OEM part is just too thin. IMHO it needs to be made out of a fabric reinforced abrasion resistant rubber, but much thicker than original.

Something like this:

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Someone (? @NLXTACY) needs to design/build a heavier duty version; the rubber on the OEM part is just too thin. IMHO it needs to be made out of a fabric reinforced abrasion resistant rubber, but much thicker than original.

Something like this:

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

I get 6+ years out of a $10 part that requires 20 minutes to replace.

 

[JaketheSSnake]

Mine was thoroughly trashed in 3 years. Maybe it made it 2 years? Pretty terrible considering mine is basically a pleasure/vacation driver. So basically it would need changed every other oil change lol

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Mine was thoroughly trashed in 3 years. Maybe it made it 2 years? Pretty terrible considering mine is basically a pleasure/vacation driver. So basically it would need changed every other oil change lol

You may need to lube your shaft more often. A dry shaft is never good when you have it in a tight hole.

 

[ItsBavid]

You may need to lube your shaft more often. A dry shaft is never good when you have it in a tight hole.

teeheehee-Ron Swanson Laugh.

What do you use to lube your shaft? Do you lube the rubber as well?

 

[BILT4ME]

teeheehee-Ron Swanson Laugh.

What do you use to lube your shaft? Do you lube the rubber as well?

I used white lithium grease since that does not attack rubber products. I also placed extra in the inside of the bot so as it moves, it will pick up a little more lube. Always be liberal withe the lube when lubing your shaft.

 

[JaketheSSnake]

You may need to lube your shaft more often. A dry shaft is never good when you have it in a tight hole.

I just spit on it when I installed it. I'll go with something a little more long term next time I guess

 

[ItsBavid]

I used white lithium grease since that does not attack rubber products. I also placed extra in the inside of the bot so as it moves, it will pick up a little more lube. Always be liberal withe the lube when lubing your shaft.

Thanks brother!

 

[lacasd]

thanks Phil for the instructions! finally got to this today.

 

[JLH911]

Finally replaced mine today and a little tip with what I did. I slotted where the bolt hole opening is to allow for more movement of the seal once you're installing it. This way you can center the seal to wherever the shaft sits. I figured it'd be ok to slot it open since the bolt has a built in washer that's wide enough. I also lubed the opening with some Honda Shin-Etsu Silicone grease that's specially made for lubricating rubber.

Honda Shin-Etsu Silicone Grease - JHPUSA

Honda Shin-Etsu silicone grease is great for lubing rubber seals on doors, sunroofs, and window channels. 4.8oz tube.

jhpusa.com

 

[alia176]

I'm doing this project today and got hung up at the coupler re-assembly part due to tendinitis on my right arm. So tired of this old age s***

 

[Snobud]

I get 6+ years out of a $10 part that requires 20 minutes to replace.

What did you end up replacing the seal with, the OEM or the bryke bearing support?

 

[Snobud]

I recently did the work to fit a bearing unit in conjunction with a new Toyota seal - now it's got both co-existing. So far going good.

Turned out the only bearing units that would work are the type with the two-piece steel 'clamp'. Good thing with that is it allows the bearing to be held in place at a slightly different angle to the seal face cutout of the Toyota factory place that the seal mounts onto and that allows fine-tuning as the steering shaft doesn't come through the seal directly in line perpendicular to the plane of the hole where the seal goes.

This is the bearing unit I finally settled on. A bit pricey but the bearings look to be better quality than the el-cheapo variants of these.

BORGESON S/S STEERING SHAFT SUPPORT BEARING BOR700010 FOR 3/4" STEERING SHAFT | eBay

This is how I mocked it up to work out the right bolt length, how to configure nuts/washers as spacers, etc. before installing everything into the vehicle:

pic page

This is with everything put back as I was checking and re-checking that nothing was fouled or binding and that I had all the fastener configuration right.

pic page

Don't know how it will go long-term but it stops the top end of the middle shaft flapping around and holds it steady where it passes through the Toyota seal piece. I can get a plastic squirty tube from my preferred aerosol grease can (Wurth HHS-2000 at present) to spray the shaft inside the seal piece to keep it lubed up.

Craig.

How has your modified fix held up over all this time?

 

[sunrk]

It's held up very well. I just did a 300 km off road trip to test out my fully rebuilt front end etc. and no problems. I check all the uni-joint bolts and snug up anything that might seem to need it occasionally.

 

[deltapine1]

Replacement completed with OEM part. Thank you @LandCruiserPhil for starting this thread and to the others for all the comments. Much easier route than the FSM.

 

[Snobud]

did you do this double system to fix a steering shaft that was loose? I noticed in this thread people mentioning Loose wide rotating steering wheel shafts but no one ever followed up to mention why this happens or the repair. I wonder if adding the bearing will help solve the loose steering shaft or hurt it?

It's held up very well. I just did a 300 km off road trip to test out my fully rebuilt front end etc. and no problems. I check all the uni-joint bolts and snug up anything that might seem to need it occasionally.

 

[deltapine1]

The only issue I had was the failed shaft seal letting hot air blow into the cab.

 

[sunrk]

The shaft by design is 'loose' and the prime concern when fitting anything to replace the factory seal and seal plate is how to set it up to deal with the fact that the steering column is mounted to the body and the steering box is mounted to the chassis, and due to the body mounts, the body and chassis do (minimally) 'flex' in relation to each other.

I was careful setting up my bearing unit so that at rest the shaft coming through the firewall was as much as possible in it's 'natural' position. One possible thing with a fixed bearing unit is that it can or might cause additional wear at the flex coupler under the dash or in the uni-joint where the shaft connects to the steering box, but IMHO having the steering shaft with basically zero support through the firewall causes that anyway. It's a Toyota engineering compromise and plenty of other vehicles have a similar setup.

 

[Snobud]

The shaft by design is 'loose' and the prime concern when fitting anything to replace the factory seal and seal plate is how to set it up to deal with the fact that the steering column is mounted to the body and the steering box is mounted to the chassis, and due to the body mounts, the body and chassis do (minimally) 'flex' in relation to each other.

I was careful setting up my bearing unit so that at rest the shaft coming through the firewall was as much as possible in it's 'natural' position. One possible thing with a fixed bearing unit is that it can or might cause additional wear at the flex coupler under the dash or in the uni-joint where the shaft connects to the steering box, but IMHO having the steering shaft with basically zero support through the firewall causes that anyway. It's a Toyota engineering compromise and plenty of other vehicles have a similar setup.

ok another question... why not use a spacer in place of the 3 nuts? did you use lock tight or an equivalent?

 

[sunrk]

I used the hardware I had available. No thread locker - just standard anti-sieze. All stainless 304 grade fastener hardware. With a brand new genuine seal plate and seal.