Hot drivers feet? This may be your fix.

[Hornd]

DO NOT DO THIS, IF YOU READ FURTHER ON IT SQUEAKED SO BAD I RIPPED IT OUT AND WENT OEM! YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!!!

I didn't want to be left out so here is my experience:

Tools & Supplies:
-3/8 or 1/4 Socket Drive
12mm, 14 mm, and 10mm sockets
8" Long Extension
Sharpie
90 degree pick
Angle Grinder with 80 Grit Flapper wheel
Bastard File
(2) M6x1.0 x 20mm Long
Few Brews

Put the key in and turn steering wheel till studs in joint are at Noon and 6.
Mark the collar of the flex joint (behind rubber piece) so it can be aligned in same location
Do as Phil says and remove (2) 12mm bolts, nuts, and washers on flex joint
Rotate the flex joint and it will seperate.
Remove the 2 10mm bolts damaged collar. Take a Breather...
Remove any rubber still on steering shaft with pick.

Lay old collar over new collar and mark with Sharpie.
Put New collars together in vise
Grind using 80 grit flapper wheel till you hit line, don't grab them out like I did, as they are hot.
Soften any sharp edges with bastard file.

Slip New collar on Steering Shaft.
Put Rubber Joint Section back on shaft with yor sharpie line matched up.
Put Bolts, Washers, Nuts back on finger tight
Put New Longer Bolts in New Bushing

 

[jwilliams]

I didn't want to be left out so here is my experience:

Tools & Supplies:
-3/8 or 1/4 Socket Drive
12mm, 14 mm, and 10mm sockets
8" Long Extension
Sharpie
90 degree pick
Angle Grinder with 80 Grit Flapper wheel
Bastard File
(2) M6x1.0 x 20mm Long
Few Brews

Put the key in and turn steering wheel till studs in joint are at Noon and 6.
Mark the collar of the flex joint (behind rubber piece) so it can be aligned in same location
Do as Phil says and remove (2) 12mm bolts, nuts, and washers on flex joint
Rotate the flex joint and it will seperate.
Remove the 2 10mm bolts damaged collar. Take a Breather...
Remove any rubber still on steering shaft with pick.

Lay old collar over new collar and mark with Sharpie.
Put New collars together in vise
Grind using 80 grit flapper wheel till you hit line, don't grab them out like I did, as they are hot.
Soften any sharp edges with bastard file.

Slip New collar on Steering Shaft.
Put Rubber Joint Section back on shaft with yor sharpie line matched up.
Put Bolts, Washers, Nuts back on finger tight
Put New Longer Bolts in New Bushing

Have you driven it around for awhile? Any difference in feeling? Does this seal equally as well as the stock gasket?

 

[nukegoat]

My bearing is all squeaky already.

 

[bmac1996acc]

My bearing is all squeaky already.

WD40?

 

[Golgo13]

I'm a little lost, what was the point of using the part with the bearing?

The Steering Column is mounted to the body. The Steering Gear box is mounted to the frame.
The seal(we call it the "Hole Cover") between the column and the body at the firewall is meant to allow for the dynamic movement of the body on the frame.
If you have a newer Toyota, get underneath and check out the seal there! It is a set of huge rubber boots.
The purpose of this part is to seal out noise and heat from the engine bay. One of the requirements is that it remains flexible to allow for the relative movement between the column and the steering box.

 

[jakesiar]

I replaced mine this past summer with the OEM main shaft seal #45292-35050. I agree with Golgo on this and that is why I didn't want to replace w/ the bearing, just my 2 cents...

 

[bmac1996acc]

Shouldn't be a problem. The bearing can pivot within the retainer. How much does a body mount move in relation to the chassis? I bounced my truck around pretty hard through some rock gardens and didn't have any problems. What could be the problem short of the bearing failing?

 

[Golgo13]

The bearing can fail and cause an annoying squeak.
The body mounts are pretty stiff, but there is more body movement than you might think.
This can cause undue stress on the steering intermediate shaft and eventually lead to a failure.
The I-shaft is likely strong enough that it isn't the weak point, so it might cause the new seal to bend and flex and eventually crack.
Then you have to replace it again.

For passenger cars, the steering rack is mounted to the engine cradle with a set of bushings. The engine cradle is mounted to the body with a set of bushings. The whole steering column also tilts(unlike 80-Series where only the upper half tilts). All of the dynamic movement during use(flexing the bushings) and the positional tolerances from assembling parts means you end up with a set of boots for this application which are ~4" in diameter.
LC uses a rigid mount for the gear box to the frame. The steering column is an upper-tilt type. This helps reduce the movement that needs to be accounted for, but still some movement, so it is a smaller boot and not a rigid bearing.

 

[MoeGasim]

lol...i dont even have the plate there...let alone the seal....love this site...thanks for the write up

 

[jwilliams]

I just replaced mine with the stock part. Was very simple thanks to this thread.

Thanks for the easy walk-through. Took about 20 min.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I just replaced mine with the stock part. Was very simple thanks to this thread.

Thanks for the easy walk-through. Took about 20 min.

View attachment 1011817

I'm thinking I might call the uninstalled $15 bearing I bought a loss and go OEM. Just seems easier and I don't need a complicated install to become a squeaker.

 

[DirtyLawyer]

Thank you!

A few tips: to crack the 3 bolts, you may need a breaker bar, mine were very tight. Make sure to hold the coupler with your hand to give it support while you apply the leverage.

Putting the coupler back together may require you to unlock the wheel and gently play with the angles to get it lined up - but keeping it locked for disassembly is key.

Otherwise, a very simple fix. I lubed mine up well, curious how it will hold up.

 

[Hornd]

I put in bearing and now it is a squeeker (info above)
Will try grease one time then it will be OEM. I'm going to loosen bolts too, so it can move where it wants.
The Rubber OEM is not rigid.

 

[musthave]

I picked up the OEM one from @beno and will be getting er' done this weekend.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Almost 4 years since I replaced mine and started this thread.

All is still good.

It is my belief that is you keep your shaft lubed the seal will last longer

 

[TrickyT]

Hey, I've now joined this club too.

A couple new things to add. First, I didn't see anyone else mention dust. And I'm not talking about the kind of dust that Lord Asriel, Mrs. Coulter and Lyra were so intrigued by. I'm talking about the fine clay-colored dust found on dirt roads in the southwest. It was all around the firewall opening and covered everything else nearby. I had previously wondered how so much dust would get inside on my expedition trips when I had all the windows up and A/C on recirculate. Now I know.

Secondly, I had trouble rotating the steering coupler out of the way until I removed the long bolt on the steering box side of the coupler. This allowed the coupler to slide forward just a pinch but enough to allow the other half to easily rotate out of the way.

As everyone who came before me has said, it's a 30 minute job, a $13 part, and should make a huge difference.

 

[musthave]

Yes, worth the time and $ to fix.

 

[Dragos80]

I finally did it too. 5 bolts to play with.
It took me about 1 hour to complete it, while helping my son get a kite in the air, taking some breaks to the fridge. Looking for the 12mm socket, test drive it and finally tighten everything up.

I had all 5 bolts loose after installing the seal because I wasn't sure about the position of the steering wheel with respect to the steering column. Drove around a little bit to see if the steering wheel is centered when driving in a straight line. Got back home, tightened everything up, pulled the seal as much as possible to the left to be centered with the column and finished up a refreshment I started earlier. Some people here refer to it as #6.

 

[Dragos80]

And here's the proof of everything I stated above.

 

[Rusco]

After having read this whole thread because I went through the "noise" fix, I think this is a very valid point:

I'm a little lost, what was the point of using the part with the bearing?

The Steering Column is mounted to the body. The Steering Gear box is mounted to the frame.
The seal(we call it the "Hole Cover") between the column and the body at the firewall is meant to allow for the dynamic movement of the body on the frame.
If you have a newer Toyota, get underneath and check out the seal there! It is a set of huge rubber boots.
The purpose of this part is to seal out noise and heat from the engine bay. One of the requirements is that it remains flexible to allow for the relative movement between the column and the steering box.

The has to be some allowance for relative movement between the body and frame mounted components, or the next flexible part in line, the coupler (rag joint) at the base of the steering column itself, is going to have to absorb much more movement and vibration than it's designed for.
My nickel's worth......