Builds HJ61 Cruiser build

[TLC Norway]

aah... a nice package in the mail, been looking for this for two years! OEM replacement radiator, and as far as i can tell, it really IS a new oem unit!!

 

[TLC Norway]

now, i want to add another good layer of paint to the rad, what do i use? any clues?

 

[TLC Norway]

Did some controlled flexing to see what to do about better bumstops and another shock setup.
No sway bar in the rear, and the stock swaybar in the front, with 2" extended links.
Rear flexes good enough for me, i get full droop on springs and shackles, maybe the shocks extend fully at that point, havent loosened them.
This is with OME nitocharger shocks, they are the limiting factor compressed and extended in the front.
Wheels are perfect in terms of measures, 15x9 with the ideal 3.75 bs or close to that. but i feel they are not the perfect match for 12,5 wide tires. would love to go 35's in a skinnier version.

 

[TLC Norway]

With the lockers, i dont feel the need for any more flex than this, but i want to address the bumpstops and have a better shock setup for a less bouncy feel on the trails, and a firmer ride on pavement... what do i do...?
@cruiseroutfit Kurt, @orangefj45 Georg, @lcwizard Dave, you have dealt with OME for a while and may have some input?
Most people are satisfied with the shock and setup they spend their money at, but you might have tried several options.
SR up front is not an option btw.

I have removed the 3rd top leaf from the front heavy ome pack, have Daves flip kit up front, will add it in the rear soon. (and it rises the lower shock mount about an inch) and might take out a leaf back there too, if the drawer system does not address that.
That leaves my leaf count at 6 in the front and 8 in the rear.
Shackles are 120mm which i guesstimate is 4.75"

 

[DanS HJ-45]

now, i want to add another good layer of paint to the rad, what do i use? any clues?

That is a sexy, sexy piece you've got there. New OEM radiator? Too awesome.

As to giving it another good layer of paint, I'm not sure that I would, because Toyota uses excellent paints in my experience, but in general it used to be that you only used dedicated radiator paint. Like this: Eastwood Radiator Black Paint

But nowadays I'm not so sure that is required. Spray paints have gotten a lot better, and even the radiator shops I know have stopped using their special stuff (which was generally india ink based, as I recall--very thin). The radiator I just had redone by the radiator shop was just sprayed in a high temp black.

So I don't think there's anything special that you need to do if you want to put another coat on your new radiator, but don't put on a thick coat. Keep the paint thin on the radiator core.

Dan

 

[Ironbark]

With the lockers, i dont feel the need for any more flex than this, but i want to address the bumpstops and have a better shock setup for a less bouncy feel on the trails, and a firmer ride on pavement... what do i do...?

I have the OME kit too and went with Koni shocks after having had the OME "nitrochargers" in this 60 and other 'cruisers before. The Konis have been in a while now and I feel they are a significant improvement over the OME shocks, certainly less bounce, while giving a very comfortable ride. I spent a long time investigating various options and am happy with the choice I made.

I run an ARB airlocker at the rear with both front and rear sway bars. It's a compromise I'm happy with in terms of on-road manners and off-road capability; although I feel body roll is a bit of an issue, probably due to worn sway bar bushes. I've got all new sway bar links and bushes sitting in my shed waiting for a clear weekend.

In terms of weight she has a full set of drawers fitted, 10,000 lb Warn winch in an ARB winch bar out front and a full length tradesman's roof rack up top. When we go away there is a fair bit of extra weight in the beast too. I take it nice and easy on any tracks.

The things I looked at were damping performance, durability, serviceability and ride. I gave serious consideration to "tough dog" and Bilstein shocks.

I had a ride in a tough dog equipped 'cruiser and it seemed to handle well but I wasn't convinced by the non-rebuildable nature of them. I also couldn't see any testimonials to them lasting 150,000km on corrugations and a few stories in the Landcruiser club of them not holding up put me off.

With the Bilsteins, if I had been more interested in a on-road performance I might have given them a go. Certainly the quality of the welds and engineering was on a par with the Konis. I just felt that the Konis had the edge in terms of design suitability for a mix of both on and off-road performance.


Ironbark

 

[TLC Norway]

That is a sexy, sexy piece you've got there. New OEM radiator? Too awesome.

As to giving it another good layer of paint, I'm not sure that I would, because Toyota uses excellent paints in my experience, but in general it used to be that you only used dedicated radiator paint. Like this: Eastwood Radiator Black Paint

But nowadays I'm not so sure that is required. Spray paints have gotten a lot better, and even the radiator shops I know have stopped using their special stuff (which was generally india ink based, as I recall--very thin). The radiator I just had redone by the radiator shop was just sprayed in a high temp black.

So I don't think there's anything special that you need to do if you want to put another coat on your new radiator, but don't put on a thick coat. Keep the paint thin on the radiator core.

Dan

I was thinking the same. the paint on it looks mint, high gloss and smooth, so i'm thinking i'll add another layer of that.
Radiators rarely get very hot, so i'll just use something suited for temperatures and glossy, so its easy to clean.
Not sure if im going to paint the core at all, it looks good. Maybe i'll just leave it be, and do something about it if oem paint does not hold up.

Pål

 

[TLC Norway]

I have the OME kit too and went with Koni shocks after having had the OME "nitrochargers" in this 60 and other 'cruisers before. The Konis have been in a while now and I feel they are a significant improvement over the OME shocks, certainly less bounce, while giving a very comfortable ride. I spent a long time investigating various options and am happy with the choice I made.

I run an ARB airlocker at the rear with both front and rear sway bars. It's a compromise I'm happy with in terms of on-road manners and off-road capability; although I feel body roll is a bit of an issue, probably due to worn sway bar bushes. I've got all new sway bar links and bushes sitting in my shed waiting for a clear weekend.

In terms of weight she has a full set of drawers fitted, 10,000 lb Warn winch in an ARB winch bar out front and a full length tradesman's roof rack up top. When we go away there is a fair bit of extra weight in the beast too. I take it nice and easy on any tracks.

The things I looked at were damping performance, durability, serviceability and ride. I gave serious consideration to "tough dog" and Bilstein shocks.

I had a ride in a tough dog equipped 'cruiser and it seemed to handle well but I wasn't convinced by the non-rebuildable nature of them. I also couldn't see any testimonials to them lasting 150,000km on corrugations and a few stories in the Landcruiser club of them not holding up put me off.

With the Bilsteins, if I had been more interested in a on-road performance I might have given them a go. Certainly the quality of the welds and engineering was on a par with the Konis. I just felt that the Konis had the edge in terms of design suitability for a mix of both on and off-road performance.


Ironbark

Thanks for your reply, Ironbark! Sounds like something i'd dig, plus i am also intrigued by the ability to rebuild them down the road.
Shocks seem to last 2-3 years in my cruiser life. Never tried bilsteins, but had konis on my 4runner years ago with good luck.
I'll add them to my read-up-list.

What shocks specifically are you running? part no?

 

[AlbertoSD]

As to giving it another good layer of paint, I'm not sure that I would, because Toyota uses excellent paints in my experience, but in general it used to be that you only used dedicated radiator paint. Like this: Eastwood Radiator Black Paint

But nowadays I'm not so sure that is required. Spray paints have gotten a lot better, and even the radiator shops I know have stopped using their special stuff (which was generally india ink based, as I recall--very thin). The radiator I just had redone by the radiator shop was just sprayed in a high temp black.

So I don't think there's anything special that you need to do if you want to put another coat on your new radiator, but don't put on a thick coat. Keep the paint thin on the radiator core.

Dan

What Dan mentioned. If you feel the need to apply another coat, I would perhaps only paint the upper and lower tank and leave the radiator core alone. Additional paint will decrease the heat transfer efficiency of the radiator.

Hope this helps,

-Alberto

 

[Ironbark]

Thanks for your reply, Ironbark! Sounds like something i'd dig, plus i am also intrigued by the ability to rebuild them down the road.
Shocks seem to last 2-3 years in my cruiser life. Never tried bilsteins, but had konis on my 4runner years ago with good luck.
I'll add them to my read-up-list.

What shocks specifically are you running? part no?

G'Day,

Part numbers are 82-2296 (front) and 82-2294 (rear). These are the shocks recommended by Koni here in Australia for the 85-90 HJ61 with a 50mm lift, loaded for touring with my loads. They are their "Heavy Track" product line.

As I outlined in my thread you can also get 90 series (RAID) shocks to fit the 60/61/62, however, they are very expensive and can require some modification to fit.

There is also a lower specced Koni below the 82 Series (30 series I think?) that will fit our vehicles. However, these are not as suitable for the sort of continuous off-road work I can do on a big tour.

Ironbark

 

[TLC Norway]

Waiting for other odds and ends to come in, rad hoses, belts, bypass hose and so on...
But cant for the life of me find a stock shroud somewhere. Would dig to add that while everything is apart. Then the engine bay is near completed after two years of parts tracking.


Here's a quick video flexing. will undo shocks and do the same, maybe i'll undo the front swaybar too to see whats going on.
Glad i got the old wheeloader going, now the two straight 6's whine their turbo together again.

 

[TLC Norway]

What Dan mentioned. If you feel the need to apply another coat, I would perhaps only paint the upper and lower tank and leave the radiator core alone. Additional paint will decrease the heat transfer efficiency of the radiator.

Hope this helps,

-Alberto

Yeah, if i do anpther layer, it will only be to the tanks, and a little overspray to the core...

 

[TLC Norway]

G'Day,

Part numbers are 82-2296 (front) and 82-2294 (rear). These are the shocks recommended by Koni here in Australia for the 85-90 HJ61 with a 50mm lift, loaded for touring with my loads. They are their "Heavy Track" product line.

As I outlined in my thread you can also get 90 series (RAID) shocks to fit the 60/61/62, however, they are very expensive and can require some modification to fit.

There is also a lower specced Koni below the 82 Series (30 series I think?) that will fit our vehicles. However, these are not as suitable for the sort of continuous off-road work I can do on a big tour.

Ironbark

Yeah, that intel agrees with my studies yesterday. I've added the 82 series to my consideration list. Thanks!

 

[HoJo 61]

Seems to flex quite nicely, for SUA rig. My HJ probably flexes half of that.

 

[TLC Norway]

Seems to flex quite nicely, for SUA rig. My HJ probably flexes half of that.

Yes, i agree, i think the shackles are in a sweet spot for my setup and weight.
Will not get much more with sua and short springs. Will get a bit more droop with a longer shock.

and since i was alone lifting the rig like that, i parked it against that little slope to pre-start the flex, so i wouldnt lift too high.
Maybe i'll do it on flat ground next time and add a safety strap from the wheel to the loader in case it wants to tip, even though i dont think it will.
I'm gonna do another flex to measure shocks, then a final flex with new shocks to dial in bumpstops.

Went for a ride up the mountain today, my friend upgraded to the latest DJI drone with gimbal and 4K video.
will upload the 5gigs of video over the night and see how youtube copes with the 4k.

 

[TLC Norway]

Finally got a lead on a rad shroud, hopefully it can cross the country and get here before next friday, then i can do all the rad, belts and hose work. Also got 24 arp studs and cone washers coming in, along with some spares for both cruisers.
Mechanically then things should be fine for a week of wheeling in Finland again, Lapland Trophy 2016 with both rigs!

Here's a quick edit of the drone footage in my backyard, put your favorite music on and press play in HD.
Fun testing out the drone, the footage in front of the rig is all manual flying between the bushes, as the drone has to back up.

 

[hj 60]

Nice video with a quality drone, I am looking for one for our trips to abandoned sites but a few hundred dollars for another toy:
I used a lot of time replacing rad: especially cleaning up and painting stuff, the old rubber O-rings were easy to install on new rad, cleaning the bolts and nuts, and the bracket was fine but could use some paint, also got new hoses.
The two large bolts on the bottom might break because very tight/rusted, so maybe you can start the work before it arrives?

I used this foam as it is mentioned to force air trough the rad an can make a small difference:

(nice painted radiator that started leaking again, have to throw away )

 

[TLC Norway]

Leaving for Lapland Trophy tonight or tomorrow morning, so now i'm trying to get the last things buttoned up.
Will be 6-7 days of trails and awsomeness! The forecast looks quite bad, will be monsun rain and the swamp will probably swallow my rig.
Minor things are left, so if the tranny and driveshafts hold up, i should be fine
The toy dealer didnt get my oil filter in as planned, so i'll have to track down a filter along the route and do the oil change then.

Here is mid-process of dawers, did both rigs simultaneously, trying to maximize the space and get by with what we had laying around.

The LJ73 also got new side panels and door cards. Drawers slide in a friction fit with the soft part of glue on velcro-strips on the sides and bottom. Real smooth, and just 3mm of wasted space. Will get better locking handles later on, but for now we just poked a hole.

All ply parts are now in paint, and will start mounting them later today and pack up.

Hundreds of things I'll have to get done, so now im off!

 

[mcguirejohnson]

Nice clean drawers. Woodworking skills are nice to have, my drawers would make you cringe... But they work Post some pics of the trip!

 

[TLC Norway]

Oh, its been over a month! I'll try to catch up, been traveling a lot, having a good time!

Before we left for Lapland Trophy, we finished up the drawers in both cruisers:
She also did door cards and side panels after cleaning out the truck and patching up small rust areas and such, looks real good! we didnt have wide enough rubber mat to put in, but here it is:

60 in the making, boxes slide on the soft part of 3M velcro strips at the bottom and on the side.
No rattles and easy to slide in and out the drawers. Would love to go with HD drawer slides, but the budget and space was the key here.

And 60 is done, only the edge trim and bolt downs are missing.
Side wings have several holes for strapping down lighter stuff, or putting the straps down to the oem mounts which i moved outboard to also hold the main section.

Will add better handles with push-lock and some tracks later on, but this does the job.

The radiator and hoses went in without a hazzle, just had to move the lower mounts from the old one over to the new.
The shroud got a good cleaning and new enamel paint to match the sweet looking rad and new hoses got hooked up. No pictures of that, just imagine the most beautiful radiator in there.

Last major job was to install the rear u bolt flip kit from 4Plus @lcwizard
Awesome product, and i love the fact that it rises the shock up and out of harms way, in addition to the sturdier and trail-worthy design.
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