High steer, slee vs hellfire, Hydro assist. (5 Viewers)

[Wermz]

Okay im finally tired of bump steer.

Ive stared a truss and panhard bracket. I put the axle bracket as close to the spring as i can to make the bar itself as long as possible. I havent drilled a hole yet, im going to nail that down once i have both ends figured out. Im also going to make a frame side mount, a bit higher up and further outside than the original.. heres some pictures.


Please advise if you see something i missed or need to do or move or whatever..

 

[Wermz]

 

[Wermz]

Looking at it this morning with fresh eyes im going to lean the axle bracket forward(red) to avoid hitting the top of the housing(yellow) and put it infront a bit(purple)..

Any opinions??

 

[scottryana]

Yeah I think you will have to come forward quite a bit or you will have issues when fully compressed or have to bend around the housing.

 

[Wermz]

I cant go out as far as the original mount, it may interfere with the steering, but i can go a bit further than the little red box i suppose.

Im also building a frame side mount, it will be 2”ish higher than the stock mount, that should help with axle clearance a little bit. This is probably the most difficult thing ive done on the truck, i dont want to mess it up.

 

[Broski]

I cant go out as far as the original mount, it may interfere with the steering, but i can go a bit further than the little red box i suppose.

Im also building a frame side mount, it will be 2”ish higher than the stock mount, that should help with axle clearance a little bit. This is probably the most difficult thing ive done on the truck, i dont want to mess it up.

Am I missing something, If you move the frame side up you end up with the same bump steer no ?
I know @Shoppy is running the same set up, if I remember He moved the axle mount straight up and then modified the panhard.

I well grab you a picture or two he's just up the road.

 

[Broski]

I'm no expert but in IMHO the axle need to be at ride height to set this up with the springs out so one can articulate the axle freely to check for clearance.
The panhard should be as long as possible and parallel to the drag link.

 

[Wermz]

Am I missing something, If you move the frame side up you end up with the same bump steer no ?
I know @Shoppy is running the same set up, if I remember He moved the axle mount straight up and then modified the panhard.

I well grab you a picture or two he's just up the road.

The frame side will move up roughly 2” and tthe axle side will move up about 5” these are very rough measurements, the overall angle will match-ish the drag link.

I'm no expert but in IMHO the axle need to be at ride height to set this up with the springs out so one can articulate the axle freely to check for clearance.
The panhard should be as long as possible and parallel to the drag link.

Once my new mounts are made and tacked in place ill put the wheels on and set the truck on the ground. I dont want to remove the stock ph until the new mounts are in place and the bar is a proper length. Ill have to reset the truck on the lift to pull the springs anyway, im picking up on the front control arms right now. These trucks have such a short frame for lifting.. but yeah i agree, pull springs and articulate.

 

[Wermz]

Heres my paper frame mount

 

[Wermz]

 

[Wermz]

Obviously the placement isnt exact with the paper, but that a close representation of what i plan to make. The new frame side mount also adds about 3-4” of rod length to the new ph, and put the rod end roughly behind the draglink rod end, in hopes they travel a similar arc and helps prevent some of the bump steer.


Side note, the factory frame side panhard mount hits the tie rod during compression with the tie rod low on the knuckles. Thats the reason for raising the frame side. I also plan to cut off the stock mount to try and clear the tie rod

 

[Wermz]

Here we are with the frame bracket. Sorry guys these are real time posts..

 

[Wermz]

 

[baldilocks]

I assume that the track bar has been raised upward enough that the bar won’t interfere with the differential as it transitions through it’s range of motion?

 

[SNLC]

I'm no expert but in IMHO the axle need to be at ride height to set this up with the springs out so one can articulate the axle freely to check for clearance.
The panhard should be as long as possible and parallel to the drag link.

100% and cycle the suspension before final welding.

Cheers

 

[Shoppy]

Couple things I ran into when running my hell fires

1. need more lift on the vehicle to obtain frame clearance. The 3" coil springs just aren't enough to get the large diameter tie rods in and have a good amount of up travel. I had to increase the bump stops on the coil buckets by a ton.

2. Of course Pan hard, the hell fire arms are short enough that the tie rod contacts the factory pan hard, so relocating rearward was necessary.

3. no easy way to double sheer the connecting links at the passenger side. Sketch ball with both of my links hanging below the arm- due to the fact there just wasn't enough room up top.

4. changed the castor more than I expected even with the correction plates.

5. if you break on the trail, you're pretty much out of luck for spares so build it right

My intentions for my own rig: re invent the exhaust routing from my ls swap. Run 3 link front end, raise the tie rods above the arms and have true high steer. Add Hydro Assist.

My 2 cents: Don't run a different knuckle unless you're going 3 link and a good amount of lift, specifically building a bad ass crawler and plan to kiss your overlanding rig goodbye.

 

[Shoppy]

Couple things I ran into when running my hell fires

1. need more lift on the vehicle to obtain frame clearance. The 3" coil springs just aren't enough to get the large diameter tie rods in and have a good amount of up travel. I had to increase the bump stops on the coil buckets by a ton.

2. Of course Pan hard, the hell fire arms are short enough that the tie rod contacts the factory pan hard, so relocating rearward was necessary.

3. no easy way to double sheer the connecting links at the passenger side. Sketch ball with both of my links hanging below the arm- due to the fact there just wasn't enough room up top.

4. changed the castor more than I expected even with the correction plates.

5. if you break on the trail, you're pretty much out of luck for spares so build it right

My intentions for my own rig: re invent the exhaust routing from my ls swap. Run 3 link front end, raise the tie rods above the arms and have true high steer. Add Hydro Assist.

My 2 cents: Don't run a different knuckle unless you're going 3 link and a good amount of lift, specifically building a bad ass crawler and plan to kiss your overlanding rig goodbye.

 

[Wermz]

 

[Wermz]

 

[Wermz]

The welds on the frame arent my best work, im gonna blame horrible accessibility and a slightly less than capable welder.