High steer, slee vs hellfire, Hydro assist. (1 Viewer)

[Broski]

Post 78 picture # 4 upper part of the panhards look to be off by a few inches.

Seem like a lot of work just to end up with the same bump steer ?

Center the axle at ride height before cutting the new panhard to length.

 

[Shoppy]

The welds on the frame arent my best work, im gonna blame horrible accessibility and a slightly less than capable welder.
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You may want to reinforce the frame welds. Mine cracked the frame at the edge of the weld during this last rubithon, welds weren’t the problem just thin frame metal. Otherwise looking like great work!!

 

[Shoppy]

You may want to reinforce the frame welds. Mine cracked the frame at the edge of the weld during this last rubithon, welds weren’t the problem just thin frame metal. Otherwise looking like great work!!

 

[Shoppy]

The welds on the frame arent my best work, im gonna blame horrible accessibility and a slightly less than capable welder.
View attachment 2795471View attachment 2795472View attachment 2795473

You may want to reinforce the frame welds. Mine cracked the frame at the edge of the weld during this last rubithon, welds weren’t the problem just thin frame metal …I’m looking at yours and it’s much better supported than mine

 

[Wermz]

Ive finished the panhard and truss part of this project. The frame side ph mount is still where it was in previous pictures, approx 2” above the factory bolt hole. The axle side is as high as it can be, approx 5” above the factory hole, requires 3” bump stop extensions because the mount will hit the frame otherwise(needed bumps with 40s anyway) Now that the new bar is cut, welded, and installed, the truck drives much better. The heim joints remove all the slop in the worn out bushings, and the truck has no **NOTICEABLE** bump steer, with about 100 miles driven so far. Ill admit i was a bit worried about angle not being “correct” but its far better than the original ph bar. Heres a pic dump.

 

[Wermz]

 

[Wermz]

I should mention the new panhard bar is only about 2” shorter than the original..

 

[Wermz]

 

[jcardona1]

Nice work! Good job packaging all that in there with the coils. Definitely no easy task.

 

[OffRoadScott]

Interesting thread. Does the Slee kit come with the links and heim joints? Does anyone make the brackets to relocate the pan hard?

 

[Wermz]

Interesting thread. Does the Slee kit come with the links and heim joints? Does anyone make the brackets to relocate the pan hard?

Slee arms are only the arms, sold individually left and right, $300 each side

Also pm replied

 

[Wermz]

It was a lot of work getting a truss, ph brackets at both ends, and a ph bar to fit and move fully through the travel without hitting anything else, not to mention the geometry, certainly the most thinking ive had to do on this truck. Having done it now i would have changed a few things if i were to do it again. Also the rf spring does rub the axle bracket very slightly, im going to flapdisc a bit of the bracket away and see if thats enough.

 

[Broski]

Did you do anything to control warpage when you were weld the truss ?

 

[Wermz]

Welded 2” at a time, started at the center hoping that would warp the ends of the long truss before it would warp the housing. I let it cool to room temp before i welded again, took 4 hours to do the welding. I also kept turning the hub by hand to feel if it got harder to turn, never felt any difference but thats no a great measurement, but if it seized up that would be a sure sign of housing warpage. Thats about the best i could do in my shop with the time frame i had to do it. @Broski i wish i had a rod of the correct od and a spare diff housing to setup like you did with yours(nice work btw) but i didnt have those things so i did what i could.




I havent chopped the stock frame side mount yet, i will once i feel im happy with what ive done. I still plan to raise the tierod to the higher position between the stock steering arms and the slee arms, the stock frame side mount hitting the tierod during susp compression. I also plan to gusset both ph mounts once i know theyre are completely permanent. I havent flex tested the truck on my alignment lift yet with this new setup, maybe thatll show me a few new things.


Assuming all the above turns out good, next will be hydro assist. Hopefully i can get to this soon.

 

[baldilocks]

Have you decided whether you’ll mount the ram on the DL or the TR?

 

[Wermz]

Tie rod for sure. And i can get rid of that silly stabilizer.. somewhere in the orange box maybe, seems about right..

 

[Wermz]

I took the dive and cut off the stock frame side mount.. i got it “flexed out yo” and checked for clearance, plenty with the tie rod in the lower position, we’ll see what happens in the high position when i can move things around..

 

[Wermz]

I found this truck on instagram, a japanese fellas build. I thought this would apply to this thread nicely. Maybe @eimkeith or @Delta VS could use this for some kind reference for a bolt on front panhard relocation “kit”

Heres the english translation

 

[Broski]

No thank you, Sh!t looks scary

 

[eimkeith]

I found this truck on instagram, a japanese fellas build. I thought this would apply to this thread nicely. Maybe @eimkeith or @Delta VS could use this for some kind reference for a bolt on front panhard relocation “kit”



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Heres the english translation


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lot of ways to skin that cat. I'm going to have more time in my life for 80 series stuff in a couple of months if a couple of things fall into place; definitely thinking about these solutions.