HG replacement in Elk Grove is underway

[robertaleon]

HG replacement in Elk Grove is DONE!

Well back on my "coolant overflow" thread a month and a half ago I was dealt the card of a failed head gasket based on several positive tests from the Napa HC block test kit.

The parts have arrived and have rearranged the garage so let the fun begin.......

I just got done with my compression test just as a baseline so I have something to compare it to once I'm done. Here are the results

Cylinder #1 = 155 PSI
Cylinder #2 = 165 PSI
Cylinder #3 = 160 PSI
Cylinder #4 = 155 PSI
Cylinder #5 = 155 PSI
Cylinder #6 = 160 PSI

Reviewing those numbers things seem OK based on the "10% delta rule" but it will be interesting to see what's happening with #1-#3 once I get in there.

My intent based on parts purchased and studying here on Mud is to:

• HG replacement and ancillary items based on grind kit
• head work only if warranted based on findings
• fuel filter
• water pump
• new plugs
• EGR gasket
• Oil cooler gaskets
• water hoses I haven't replaced yet
• service injectors
• clean throttle body and intakes
• The assumed "clean up while I'm here" type stuff

Day one - Garage prep

 

[lispeej]

suscribed.

 

[Tennessee Jed]

Oh yeah...subscribed.

 

[Michael Hanson]

I like your nice set up.Come organize my garage. MIke

 

[cme4lyt]

Items to add..

While you're in there, I would take a look at the:-

PHH
Fuel regulator and all fuel hoses including return line
Brushes on the alternator, since it easy to get to
O-ring for distributor

I'm sure there will be other items you see that are 'prudent' to service while you have the time and access.

I'm down in Walnut Creek and have done a full rebuild, albeit with engine removed. Call if you need help or advice.

Jonathan (415-720-5194 c)

 

[robertaleon]

@cme4lyt

Thanks for the offer - this place is awesome because of all the folks like you.

I'll evaluate the alternator, fuel regulator, and associated hoses - I'm covering that stuff with the last bullet item "The assumed "clean up while I'm here" type stuff ". I have Doug's DVD and the FSM along with Chilton. PHH completed about 9 months ago with heavy-duty Napa gold stripe (Gates wanna-be) and Dizzy done about 2.5 months ago along with the oil pump gasket and crank seal, new belts and the like but I know I'm going to see vacuum and water hoses I'll never want to touch again.

 

[robertaleon]

Ok - after two 3-hour sessions this weekend I'm down to removing the cams and the head which will happen tomorrow with the help of a co-worker who is a mechanic versus my and guide me through head removal. Considering that time spent I wrestled with the alternator (stupid SOB), and wasted a can of PB blaster on the exhaust manifolds for over an hour.

My findings thus far:

• Doug's DVD is priceless. Sort of like a college degree - you may wonder why you got it or may not use directly but it will provide knowledge you can't get anywhere else without doing it.
• Doug's instructions mention obtaining E7, E8, E9 Torx bits. Since I'm a stickler for details, I stressed when I couldn't find an E9 at the usual haunts. E10 is what should be listed, not E9. After double-nutting 80% of the manifold bolts I said "screw it" and was going to buy any set. Come to find out the E7, E8, and E10 is what you want.
• When removing the bolts and nuts on the upper intake manifold, listen and comprehend exactly what Doug mentions in the DVD. You need lots of extensions. I found that the second to the rear one ("placing your extension right in front of the starter" per Doug) was actually easier for me with a universal joint extension and going outside the frame-rail on the DS. I just couldn't get it straight up in front of the starter
• That rear intake bolt is as "blind" as Doug calls it. Place your extension inbetween the block and the starter and go for it.
• Lots of char in the intakes and throttle body after 216K miles
• Many of my intake bolts were finger tight. Another reason to DIY!
• My buddy loves to use the "persuader"
• It's amazingly comfy sitting in the engine bay!

Now for the 80 porn.

 

[robertaleon]

And feedback requested on the looks of these exhaust ports. Anyone see evidence of HG steam cleaning on any of them?

1st pix is 1-2
2nd pix is 3-4
3rd pix is 5-6

 

[robertaleon]

And if you have a Little Giant ladder system, buy a 2"x12"x10' and hang out above the 1FZ

 

[Riad]

And if you have a Little Giant ladder system, buy a 2"x12"x10' and hang out above the 1FZ

Oh yeah, that's perfect

 

[robertaleon]

Head came off tonight but lots of work ahead.

No major evidence of failure so my comments after the reveal "So it was for nothing!" Multiple HC tests showed positive results I assured her along with bubbles in the radiator.

Timing gear feels like it's going to fall all the way down; neither one of us likes the feel of it but we spent an hour or so evaluating that.

My has reiterated multiple times that 1/4" ratchets ain't gonna cut it so I'll be adding to my tool collection. We studied the video and FSM for a while and the service bolt deal didn't click for either one of us since the illustration shows it at 9 o'clock. and there were no threads to be had. After multiple attempts to remove the exhaust per FSM, the front still tended to stick low up front no matter what we tried. After removal the torsional spring force got the better of us and now the sub-gear and main gear are off. Now after closer inspection and rereading, I see the main gear is threaded but would have been at 6 o'clock position, hence the turning of the exhaust cam to expose. DAMN! Love to hear ideas on how to fix that.

Intake was much easier to follow especially with the hint to watch the lobes and valves. That makes it obvious.

Next question is (based on pictures below) what type of head service to get. It was discussed over multiple sodas and pizza whether to have it resurfaced and cleaned, but I want the valve seals replaced since I bought them and if the valves need attention, might as well do it now. Let the machine shop do everything including valve adjust to a maximum of $800 or resurface at $200. If ordering a la cart - any suggestions? My prices are from Del Machine in Sacramento.

More 80 porn:

 

[robertaleon]

More porn

first pix of cyl 6-5-4
second pix of cyl 3-2-1
third pix of cyl 1-2

 

[robertaleon]

Try this again....

first pix of cyl 6-5-4
second pix of cyl 3-2-1
third pix of head cyl 1-2

 

[robertaleon]

pix 1 - Head cyl 3-4
pix 2 - head cyl 5-6
pix 3 - sub gear/main gear SNAFU

 

[MS-75]

Add 2GZ-GTE head studs from ARP to your shopping list. (they are a straight drop-in)

Every time you re-use the factory torque to yield head bolts their clamping force reduces.

Also, a bit of combustion chamber work and you can pick up a fair bit of head flow.

 

[Rwhat]

Why are the intake valves so clean. It's hard to tell, but #6 gasket doesn't look bad. No evidence of "steam cleaning anywhere. Make sure to get the head checked for cracks.

 

[CycloSteve]

$800 seems on the high-side for a straight-forward valve grind, cleaning and decking of the head, valve adjust, etc. (including installation of all provided new parts such as your valve seals). IIRC Clarks in the Bay Area was charging something south of $600.

Personally I would have the head thoroughly gone through and then you will likely never have to pull it ever again. Nothing worse than two years down the line finding that you have to go through this exercise all again just because you saved a few bucks today.

and excellent work so far!

Steve

P.S. The clean looking valves are the exhausts, which look pretty normal for the mileage.

 

[packetstormin]

First off I noticed that you run green radiator fluid which is fine if the truck has been flushed and there is no residual red radiator fluid in the system. So once you get it all buttoned back up make sure to flush and then choose either the Toyota brand red or stick with the green as it doesn't really matter much at that point. Secondly as long as your engine did not overheat your head should be fine. I would change the seals and call it good. Just my 2 cents

 

[akarilo]

$800 seems on the high-side for a straight-forward valve grind, cleaning and decking of the head, valve adjust, etc. (including installation of all provided new parts such as your valve seals). Personally I would have the head thoroughly gone through and then you will likely never have to pull it ever again. Nothing worse than two years down the line finding that you have to go through this exercise all again just because you saved a few bucks today.
QUOTE]

X2! I just had mine done by a very reputable shop here in Tulsa for $370. Shop around, but definately have the head worked; you've wasted your time if not, IMO.

 

[Pin_Head]

Shop around. There are a lot of machine shops in Sacratomato.