Builds Here we go (FJ-40 getting a 3B/Turbo/H55f)... (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter DanS HJ-45
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DanS HJ-45
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- #282
Well, today I was a busy little boy.
First things first: I had to put the sweet "Diesel" badge on it (you all know where it came from--go buy one or two already!). I just made a little 16GA backing plate, which I will weld to the grill mesh once I'm really happy with the placement. The left side of the diesel emblem on my '76 HJ-45 is aligned with the left side of the second T in Toyota. I don't know if it's different on the 79+ trucks with the square bezel.
Anyone got any clear pictures of the "correct" spot for it?
I'm not going to lie: I like the way that PS line looks. I was going to paint them black to match the frame, but I'm kind of tempted to either leave them in bare steel, or paint them silver or grey just because I think that looks kind of cool.
I also installed the pedal bucket and the master cylinders. I actually had to trim the intake a little bit to clear the brake master! Now I've got a whole 1/4" in there, so I'm good. This really is a 1/2" truck (just like you noted Wayne), even though it's got a 3B. I shudder to think about how tight my 1HZ in the 45 will be...
First things first: I had to put the sweet "Diesel" badge on it (you all know where it came from--go buy one or two already!). I just made a little 16GA backing plate, which I will weld to the grill mesh once I'm really happy with the placement. The left side of the diesel emblem on my '76 HJ-45 is aligned with the left side of the second T in Toyota. I don't know if it's different on the 79+ trucks with the square bezel.
Anyone got any clear pictures of the "correct" spot for it?
I'm not going to lie: I like the way that PS line looks. I was going to paint them black to match the frame, but I'm kind of tempted to either leave them in bare steel, or paint them silver or grey just because I think that looks kind of cool.
I also installed the pedal bucket and the master cylinders. I actually had to trim the intake a little bit to clear the brake master! Now I've got a whole 1/4" in there, so I'm good.
This really is a 1/2" truck (just like you noted Wayne), even though it's got a 3B. I shudder to think about how tight my 1HZ in the 45 will be...
DanS HJ-45
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- #283
At some point I decided to sit in the truck and make truck noises. Actually, I decided that was silly, so I started the engine and let it make the truck noises for me! Having the accelerator pedal connected makes this much easier. For the record, it's just a universal Lokar 36" throttle cable.
YouTube - truck noises.MOV
Actually, that's with the pedal bucket and the steering column fully installed (and not just held by clamps like yesterday). It really feels good to me, not too light, obviously not heavy.
With that "job" done, I decided it was time to lay the wiring harness into place and get to modifying it for the 3B. The wiring harness worked well when we removed it, but when I got to inspecting it I found this:
Yeah, PO hacked into the harness, which then did a little bit of melting. I also found a few other melted wires throughout the harness, so I just can't live with that. The solution I'm using will be to completely replace that fuse box with a new blade fuse style fuse box (actually, it's the same fuse box as I'm putting up front). It's actually a little smaller than the original fuze box, so it fits in the same spot without a problem. I'll use the "switched" side of the auxiliary block under the hood to be switched by the ACC position, so that the following will be powered from the ACC position (which is on anytime the IGN is on as well):
The fuse block in the stock location will simply be always hot, or IGN switched, just duplicating the original wiring to and from the fuse box.
So, to start the whole process, I started unwrapping the harness(es).
Ever wondered what a bunch of Toyota electrical tape looks like in a box?
I unwrap the harness, and then lightly wrap it with tape just so that it retains its shape so that I can set it in the truck and get to making the changes I need.
The things I KNOW I will have to change/modify are:
Sometime tomorrow I have to head back to work, but I'm hoping to at least get the rest of the wiring harness pulled apart, and get started wiring up the EDIC system.
I notice that the steering gearbox has more travel than the axle does. So once the axle is to the stops, the gearbox continues to turn, which pushes the truck away from the axle. I'm not sure if I like that. I could switch to a shorter pitman arm, or I could try adjusting the stops on the knuckles (I just eyeballed them, but I don't think they have much more travel to adjust). A 70 series pitman arm is shorter I understand, but does the difference in the drop make a problem for me?
Dan
Having the accelerator pedal connected makes this much easier. For the record, it's just a universal Lokar 36" throttle cable.YouTube - truck noises.MOV
Actually, that's with the pedal bucket and the steering column fully installed (and not just held by clamps like yesterday). It really feels good to me, not too light, obviously not heavy.
With that "job" done, I decided it was time to lay the wiring harness into place and get to modifying it for the 3B. The wiring harness worked well when we removed it, but when I got to inspecting it I found this:
Yeah, PO hacked into the harness, which then did a little bit of melting. I also found a few other melted wires throughout the harness, so I just can't live with that. The solution I'm using will be to completely replace that fuse box with a new blade fuse style fuse box (actually, it's the same fuse box as I'm putting up front). It's actually a little smaller than the original fuze box, so it fits in the same spot without a problem. I'll use the "switched" side of the auxiliary block under the hood to be switched by the ACC position, so that the following will be powered from the ACC position (which is on anytime the IGN is on as well):
- Stereo radio (if we ever install one), and power/cigarette lighter outlet
- CB and HAM radios
- Fuel heater
- Air system (compressor and ARB diff locks)
- Auxiliary/Fog lights (if we ever add them)
The fuse block in the stock location will simply be always hot, or IGN switched, just duplicating the original wiring to and from the fuse box.
So, to start the whole process, I started unwrapping the harness(es).
Ever wondered what a bunch of Toyota electrical tape looks like in a box?
I unwrap the harness, and then lightly wrap it with tape just so that it retains its shape so that I can set it in the truck and get to making the changes I need.
The things I KNOW I will have to change/modify are:
- The 2F starter is on the right, the 3B is on the left
- The alternator wiring is different, I might need to source a plug and pigtail that will plug into the alternator on this engine to make it work.
- Coolant temperature sensor is on the front of the 3B, our 2F has the sensor near the back of the engine.
- Have to add the whole EDIC system
- I will remove all of the silly gas emissions stuff (and probably steal the wires for the EDIC system)
- I'll run the headlights through a harness instead of the stock system (search if you don't know what I'm talking about--it's a common mod)
- The gauge pod I'll make will be powered with the rest of the gauges, same with the lights for it.
Sometime tomorrow I have to head back to work, but I'm hoping to at least get the rest of the wiring harness pulled apart, and get started wiring up the EDIC system.
I notice that the steering gearbox has more travel than the axle does. So once the axle is to the stops, the gearbox continues to turn, which pushes the truck away from the axle. I'm not sure if I like that. I could switch to a shorter pitman arm, or I could try adjusting the stops on the knuckles (I just eyeballed them, but I don't think they have much more travel to adjust). A 70 series pitman arm is shorter I understand, but does the difference in the drop make a problem for me?
Dan
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im interested in seeing your edic adventures, hopefully smooth
DanS HJ-45
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- #287
Thanks for the compliments guys. The Youtube videos really do a good job of capturing the sound of that engine...
Yesterday I finished stripping the wiring harness down to the wires. Easy enough job. Of course when I pulled the 2F and Harness I labelled ALMOST all of the connections. There are a few that I left there because "there was only one way to hook them up" and I figured I'd post them up here before I went ahead and identified them through the FSM.
On the right fender:
And on the right side, right by the heater:
I am 99% sure that these go to some sort of silly gas emissions stuff, so it will probably be removed, but before I go tracing the wires out and digging through the FSM I figured I'd see if anyone here recognized them.
Anyone?
Yesterday I finished stripping the wiring harness down to the wires. Easy enough job. Of course when I pulled the 2F and Harness I labelled ALMOST all of the connections. There are a few that I left there because "there was only one way to hook them up" and I figured I'd post them up here before I went ahead and identified them through the FSM.
On the right fender:
And on the right side, right by the heater:
I am 99% sure that these go to some sort of silly gas emissions stuff, so it will probably be removed, but before I go tracing the wires out and digging through the FSM I figured I'd see if anyone here recognized them.
Anyone?
DanS HJ-45
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- #288
So here's the now stripped harness set into the truck...
All of those label tags make it a little ungainly to snake the harness into the truck, but eventually it worked.
And here's the new fuse box that will replace the original under the dash (and an identical one is mounted to the right apron in the engine bay).
Pretty simple, it's got fairly heavy wires, and it's got two inputs. One of each will be always hot, and under the dash the other will be IGN switched, while the one in the engine bay will be the ACC switched bus.
I am thinking that I will try to use the labels that are printed on it now where I can, but where I can't I'll probably just scrape those off and use a marker or something. Either way: not a big deal. But I do like to make all of that stuff look as finished as possible.
That's it for a while. I'm at work now, and probably won't get to work on the truck for a couple of weeks, but I think I'll start with getting the fuse blocks spliced in, and then it's time to get the instrument cluster indicating what's going on with the engine...
Dan
All of those label tags make it a little ungainly to snake the harness into the truck, but eventually it worked.
And here's the new fuse box that will replace the original under the dash (and an identical one is mounted to the right apron in the engine bay).
Pretty simple, it's got fairly heavy wires, and it's got two inputs. One of each will be always hot, and under the dash the other will be IGN switched, while the one in the engine bay will be the ACC switched bus.
I am thinking that I will try to use the labels that are printed on it now where I can, but where I can't I'll probably just scrape those off and use a marker or something. Either way: not a big deal. But I do like to make all of that stuff look as finished as possible.
That's it for a while. I'm at work now, and probably won't get to work on the truck for a couple of weeks, but I think I'll start with getting the fuse blocks spliced in, and then it's time to get the instrument cluster indicating what's going on with the engine...
Dan
crushers
post ho
that airfiler box looks sweet in there and the sound...
HORNY!!
HORNY!!
crushers
post ho
exhaust through the hood, originality at its best!!
DanS HJ-45
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- #291
exhaust through the hood, originality at its best!!
I'm not going to lie: I'm going to drive it like that for a while.
Probably just around the neighborhood, but maybe even into town to get the exhaust made. I just got lucky that the exhaust used a flange to hold it into position, so I just rotated it up so that it wouldn't be exhausting into the engine bay.
I'm more and more happy with that Donaldson air filter in there, even if the fit is a bit tight. At least we won't have to worry about the engine getting clean air--ever really.
That sound really is incredible, isn't it? I've been playing that video just to listen to it in my hotel room.
Dan
exhaust through the hood, originality at its best!!
X2.
Your going to have to tell me how to get that loud whining!! i'm jealous!!
DanS HJ-45
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- #294
Funny Eric, I have been mentally comparing the noise and vibration if this truck to what I remember yours to be!
I'm hoping to retain as much of the whine as possible. I think it's so pronounced right now because it's got 2 feet of exhaust pipe, and it's very nearly straight through.
I don't know how much running the exhaust down, outside the frame and over the rear axle is going to change it. Also don't know if the state will require a muffler for it's one inspection or not. I hope not, but at mosttot will get a very low resistance straight through muffler. Obviously it isn't TOO loud now, and I'm happy with the sound this way, so hopefully we can preserve that.
Dan
I'm hoping to retain as much of the whine as possible. I think it's so pronounced right now because it's got 2 feet of exhaust pipe, and it's very nearly straight through.
I don't know how much running the exhaust down, outside the frame and over the rear axle is going to change it. Also don't know if the state will require a muffler for it's one inspection or not. I hope not, but at mosttot will get a very low resistance straight through muffler. Obviously it isn't TOO loud now, and I'm happy with the sound this way, so hopefully we can preserve that.
Dan
Funny Eric, I have been mentally comparing the noise and vibration if this truck to what I remember yours to be!
I'm hoping to retain as much of the whine as possible. I think it's so pronounced right now because it's got 2 feet of exhaust pipe, and it's very nearly straight through.
I don't know how much running the exhaust down, outside the frame and over the rear axle is going to change it. Also don't know if the state will require a muffler for it's one inspection or not. I hope not, but at mosttot will get a very low resistance straight through muffler. Obviously it isn't TOO loud now, and I'm happy with the sound this way, so hopefully we can preserve that.
Dan
Anxious to see how a couple elbow going to the rear will reduce the sound! Hurry up
DanS HJ-45
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OK, I got to work on the 40 again today. Not a real photogenic day, as it was pretty much all wiring stuff.
First off, I finally got around to fabricating a heat shield for the battery where it sits too close to the turbo for my comfort. Sorry for the lame cell phone pic, because my good camera isn't here right now, but rest assured: that big black shadow covering part of the battery is indeed a 22GA heat shield.
While I had the battery tray out, I decided to get off my lazy bum and wire up the ARB air compressor and the air locker solenoids with the harness from ARB. I modified the ARB harness a bit to make it fit my application better (for instance I don't like that inline fuse, I'll run my wires through an actual fuse box), but I'm pretty impressed with the ARB harness. Best of all, it's got a plug for the control box, which I will be mounting in a little gauge pod which I have yet to make.
I also finally got around to bending a hard line for the clutch hydraulics. Up and over the brake booster makes for a MUCH easier and cleaner line. I also found out that either I'm missing something or the clutch master cylinder is now bad. No pressure to the pedal, but I have bled the system with the vacuum and it has no air bubbles. Everything is brand new in the system with the exception of the master cylinder, so I'm going to blame the problem on it...
I also decided to wire up a headlight harness for Dad's truck. Not that the wire pictures are very impressive, but here's the two relays mounted to the right fender. There will be a third relay just like this underneath the windshield washer tank for the auxiliary lights if Dad ever installs some (I figure, now is the time to wire them and install the hard part: besides--he'll want them).
I also pulled the truck outside to work on it this afternoon, just to hear it clatter away without the walls and roof of the shop to alter the sound. Yep. Still sweet! Also, it made it easier to clean the shop with the truck outside. The cutting in and out of the sound is my clumsy hand covering the mic on my iPhone, that's not the truck!
YouTube - the 40 outside.MOV
That's all for today. I'm off to try ordering wire that's colored "correctly" for this project, and tomorrow grab a few parts in town and stop by CDan's to try and get another order in.
Dan
First off, I finally got around to fabricating a heat shield for the battery where it sits too close to the turbo for my comfort. Sorry for the lame cell phone pic, because my good camera isn't here right now, but rest assured: that big black shadow covering part of the battery is indeed a 22GA heat shield.
While I had the battery tray out, I decided to get off my lazy bum and wire up the ARB air compressor and the air locker solenoids with the harness from ARB. I modified the ARB harness a bit to make it fit my application better (for instance I don't like that inline fuse, I'll run my wires through an actual fuse box), but I'm pretty impressed with the ARB harness. Best of all, it's got a plug for the control box, which I will be mounting in a little gauge pod which I have yet to make.
I also finally got around to bending a hard line for the clutch hydraulics. Up and over the brake booster makes for a MUCH easier and cleaner line. I also found out that either I'm missing something or the clutch master cylinder is now bad. No pressure to the pedal, but I have bled the system with the vacuum and it has no air bubbles. Everything is brand new in the system with the exception of the master cylinder, so I'm going to blame the problem on it...
I also decided to wire up a headlight harness for Dad's truck. Not that the wire pictures are very impressive, but here's the two relays mounted to the right fender. There will be a third relay just like this underneath the windshield washer tank for the auxiliary lights if Dad ever installs some (I figure, now is the time to wire them and install the hard part: besides--he'll want them).
I also pulled the truck outside to work on it this afternoon, just to hear it clatter away without the walls and roof of the shop to alter the sound. Yep. Still sweet! Also, it made it easier to clean the shop with the truck outside.
The cutting in and out of the sound is my clumsy hand covering the mic on my iPhone, that's not the truck!YouTube - the 40 outside.MOV
That's all for today. I'm off to try ordering wire that's colored "correctly" for this project, and tomorrow grab a few parts in town and stop by CDan's to try and get another order in.
Dan
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Falco80
Burning dinosaur bones...
Great job Dan.
I'm digging your build up, especially all the new parts and powdercoated bits. That idea for start/glow switches under the hood is neato!
Keep the pics coming...
I'm digging your build up, especially all the new parts and powdercoated bits. That idea for start/glow switches under the hood is neato!
Keep the pics coming...
crushers
post ho
i like your attention to detail...
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Diesel emblem placement
Not sure if anyone answered this yet. (Pic is old as the bezel is now white) Nice build!!
I'm still NA in my 3B. Turbo some day!
Not sure if anyone answered this yet. (Pic is old as the bezel is now white) Nice build!!
I'm still NA in my 3B. Turbo some day!
Last edited:
DanS HJ-45
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- #300
Thanks for that pic! I got the "correct" placement wrong then. I lined it up like it lines up on my '76 HJ-45 (which has the rounded bezel). I don't know if I'll leave it where it sits (too far to center, by about a third of the width of the "T"), or if I'll get motivated to change it...
So, what did I do today?
1)Went into town (we live 30 minutes from the outskirts of Albuquerque, 45 minutes to any decent auto parts shops, and an hour from CDan) to get parts. Got a good number...
2)Worked on the 40 until about 10PM when I realized that I hadn't eaten all day.
But on to the details...
I decided to finally get off my lazy bum and get to fabricating that gauge pod in the center of the truck I've been talking about for 6 months now.
First step was to cut out a plate of 16GA steel, and then I drilled pilot holes for all the switches, the gauges, and I drilled four corner holes and cut out the center for the hour meter...
Then I decided to put the switches and the hour meter into the plate just to make sure I like how they fit. I do like it!
And a closer view of the switches. The big toggle switches are locking heavy duty switches (they lock in either position, you pull "up" on the toggle to move over the gate) which will control the air system (both power to the compressor and to the lockers), and the other will switch the fuel heater on and off (the Racor fuel heater has a built in thermostat, so it could safely just be wired to be on with the key, but I like having it switched myself...). Both of those switches are powered off of the ACC position with the key, so they will be powered any time the truck is running, and they can also be activated without turning the key all the way to ON. It's just the easiest way for me to wire the truck...
The smaller toggle switches are just simple SPST toggle switches for the lockers, and for auxiliary lights. But they are special--they are metal, and they have an LED inside the toggle to indicate when the switch is on. It's easy to find toggles with LEDs in the switch, but the only all metal switches like that I found were from McMaster-Carr.
So, what did I do today?
1)Went into town (we live 30 minutes from the outskirts of Albuquerque, 45 minutes to any decent auto parts shops, and an hour from CDan) to get parts. Got a good number...
2)Worked on the 40 until about 10PM when I realized that I hadn't eaten all day.
But on to the details...
I decided to finally get off my lazy bum and get to fabricating that gauge pod in the center of the truck I've been talking about for 6 months now.
First step was to cut out a plate of 16GA steel, and then I drilled pilot holes for all the switches, the gauges, and I drilled four corner holes and cut out the center for the hour meter...
Then I decided to put the switches and the hour meter into the plate just to make sure I like how they fit. I do like it!
And a closer view of the switches. The big toggle switches are locking heavy duty switches (they lock in either position, you pull "up" on the toggle to move over the gate) which will control the air system (both power to the compressor and to the lockers), and the other will switch the fuel heater on and off (the Racor fuel heater has a built in thermostat, so it could safely just be wired to be on with the key, but I like having it switched myself...). Both of those switches are powered off of the ACC position with the key, so they will be powered any time the truck is running, and they can also be activated without turning the key all the way to ON. It's just the easiest way for me to wire the truck...
The smaller toggle switches are just simple SPST toggle switches for the lockers, and for auxiliary lights. But they are special--they are metal, and they have an LED inside the toggle to indicate when the switch is on. It's easy to find toggles with LEDs in the switch, but the only all metal switches like that I found were from McMaster-Carr.
