Here we go (FJ-40 getting a 3B/Turbo/H55f)...

First off, a quick link to an earlier thread, but related to this swap.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/239824-3b-cradle-edic-wiring-question.html

With that part done, I decided to try to swap the 3B into Dad's 1979 FJ-40 in November.

In October, I took it on a little trip. To Northern NM/Southern CO to see the Aspens.



Tonight, with the help of Dad and Mom, we started taking stuff apart.

The hard top is OFF.



I have to head off again to work tomorrow for a couple days, but when I get back I've got 4 days off before I have to go back to work (and I'm thinking of calling in sick for at least one trip this month). In that time, I'm hoping to pull the 2f/H42, and get the tub off of the frame. With any luck, I'll also find the time to get the 3B installed in the frame and the parking brake added to the split-case.

We've got a crossmember and frame mounts for it from a BJ-42 with the 5 speed, so that part is taken care of, along with BJ-40 motor mounts and isolators.

Here's the parts I still need to source to make this work:

• 5 speed/engine rear isolator
• EDIC relay and related wiring for this engine
• clutch slave cylinder
• air cleaner that will work with the Safari turbo that was already installed on the engine
• driveshafts will have to be made/altered (once engine/trans are in)
• Radiator: should I just have the FJ-40 radiator reworked to move the inlet and outlet, or should I order something?
• Pyrometer, Boost Gauge and Water Temp Guage will be added
• Must get the 3B pulley and plate for power steering, as well as mount a PS pump (the truck has factory PS)

The hardest one here seems to be the EDIC relay and wiring. I'v got P/N 28590-56090 from Toyota, along with the Denso numbers for it too, but I have yet to find one. At the moment, the engine will be installed and I'll just open the hood and have a helper crank it while I hold the fuel control to "overinject" or something. It'll be annoying, but at least the truck will be driveable while I source a relay and wire it up. The part is common to the BJ-60 as well, so you Canadians please keep your eyes open for me. Especially if you see one being parted. I'm also hoping to get the foot of wiring harness from the plug for the EDIC motor and EDIC relay to make my wiring job easier.

The engine came from an Australian BJ-73 that SOR brought in, and Dad bought from them about a year ago. I believe it's between an 1984-1988.

The truck is currently bone stock, with a smogged 2F that runs great (just uses too much fuel IMHO), and an OME 2.5" lift and 33x9.50 tires. I think it'll be just fantastic with the 3B/Turbo and 5 speed.

My plan is to just get the engine and transmission installed and working, and then maybe start working on the little bit of cancerous rust on the truck, but to leave it for a year or two to really disassemble and repaint and everything. But we'll see. I just want to get the engine in (and avoid working on mine for the winter, so I can save $$$ for ripping my HJ-45 into a lot of little pieces next spring).

Updates when I get back to working on it in 4 or 5 days (depending on when I get home). But probably questions from the road.

Guys that have done this already: am I missing anything?

Dan

 

Yep. Both 12V.

The rear cross is no biggie. Does it even need the tubular crossmember once we add in the BJ-42 crossmember? I'll probably just move it back anyway, just to keep it stronger back there.

As to the radiator: the engine is out of a BJ-73, so the engine inlets are in a different place than they would have been for a real BJ-40/42 correct? For an 84+ 3B they are different, and if I will be monkeying with the radiator anyway, I figure I should just monkey with the existing one.

Is the 3B radiator bigger or smaller than the 2F radiator? Bigger is better here, especially with the turbo on there, so if I have to do anything crazy I'll probably just buy an aluminum radiator or something.

If it was mine, I'd probably go with the cable over the EDIC, but Dad likes it all to work with the key (shoot, the Wilson switch for GPs was almost a tough sell), so the EDIC it is. For simple reliability I can always pull the EDIC rod off.

Good to know that the overinject position seems like overkill, because it may just be running around with a choke cable for a while then!

Dan

 

Consider it done! I don't think you can have enough cores on a turbo-diesel. Good to know.

Dan

 

I've read it repeatedly Eric! Good stuff.

I can't wait to really rip into it when I get back from this trip. Stupid job.

Dan

 

Well, yesterday I was hoping to get the whole tub off. But the day before I got a bit delayed in my trip home, so I didn't get to do anything on the cruiser. Luckily a couple of the HDC guys came up and we got most of the front end taken apart, as well as everything stripped out of the tub.

First off, since it was still pretty much together, I just HAD to take it for one last spin before it becomes immobile. So, the chica and I drove around the neighborhood without the top and doors. Also, it was to get the engine warmed up for the compression check (just because everybody wants those numbers when you sell an engine).


With it warmed up, we started pulling the front apart, at least as far as we could and still be able to spin the engine for the compression check later. Here's an overview of how a 1979 smogged 2F looks before I make a mess of it.


Here's how I left it yesterday. I'm *hoping* to pull the tub off this evening, but we'll see.


I also started the 3B for the guys to hear (well, and because I think it's wicked cool). With a lot of smoke it indeed started and clattered around a bit.

I'm having a tough time finding 12371-58010, the rubber isolator between the H55f and the 40-series crossmember. I'll try to get CDan on the phone today, but we'll see. The best estimate I've got at the moment is 4 months out (SOR insisted it was IMPOSSIBLE to get them here--which I think is just code for not having any), and if that holds up, I'll just pull everything apart and start doing the bodywork on the tub and make this the whole frame off job.

Dan

 

Pics aren't all that exciting today.

Just disconnected more stuff and worked on getting the tub loose.

It pretty much is.

Couple things I uncovered...
1) a PO pulled the fuel pump and installed an electric pump on the frame rail (poorly)
2) the same PO removed the metal fuel line (actually just cut it off) and ran one single rubber line along the frame rail to the motor.
3) the rear end is pretty rusted. That's what all the pics of are today. A PO repainted it, and it appears that it was basically just bedlined and painted over some of the cancer.
4) The trailer brake controller (don't ask) has a brake line going from the master to it, and it has leaked and stripped the paint under the dash, so there is a bit of rust starting there--no real cancerous rust yet though.

So I probably won't get it back on the road in a hurry. The rust needs to be taken care of, which is no biggie, as I was planning on doing that later anyway. The tub itself is ready to come off, as soon as I cut one of the rear sill bolts off (the sill is so rusted I can't get a wrench on the bolt head). Hopefully I can get the bodywork done this winter and either rent a spray booth or be ready to repaint it in the spring.

I also swapped LED's into the instrument cluster. That took 5 minutes. Maybe tonight I'll head back up to the shop, hook the battery back up and check out the lights.

Dan

 

I'm not sure I snapped a pic of that. I'll have to check....

Checked out pappy's 60 series 5 speed isolator for the FJ-60 crossmember (flat on the bottom) and I very well may be modifying an FJ-60 crossmember to work, as at least that is fairly easily available.

Didn't get a whole lot done on the cruiser today. Between stopping by pappy's and going to the zoo with the chica, it was a busy day outside the shop. But I did get a few gauges in the mail for it (Pyrometer and Boost, waiting on water temp). First thing tomorrow morning: tub is OFF.

Dan

 

pics in a few....

But the tub is OFF.

Briefly, the tub has more rust than I expected. PO repainted but put sound mat or bedliner over some rust in the floors and sill. In fact, one of the rear body mounts didn't actually need to be unbolted, as it was simply no longer connected to the body at all.

The dash is 100% uncut. That blew me away. I figured they hacked it a bit to put the stereo in, but nope.

Like I said: pics soon.

Dan

 

Will do Wayne.

The hotel they put me in today doesn't have Internet for my computer. So you'll all just have to wait until I get to Edmonton tonight for more pictures. Thank goodness for the iPhone.

But I am using the day to call around for parts still.

Dan

 

Vince: It was on the right frame rail, toward the inside, just under the passenger seat. Do you want it? It's going in the trash otherwise.

OK, time for pictures.

The radio cutout.... (oooh.... ahhhh.....)


And the sound mat stuff that was applied to the front seat areas. Where people's feet were, it had the ability to mash itself into the rust in the front floorboards and stuff. For the most part though it did a good job protecting the metal, from what I can see. A pain to remove though.