Help me spend $8k (1 Viewer)

[WarDamnEagle]

You should be able to. It would be tight, but doable. Assuming you do all the work yourself and get decent deal on a good 1HD that doesnt need a ton of work.

In other words; not likely for the average person.

 

[thatcabledude]

And he’d still be driving a stock 80. I think he’s trying to get 8 thousand dollars away from a stock 80.

 

[cybrstar]

4x4 Labs front and Rear w/dual swing outs built-$3.5k or build it yourself $2.2k

37 KM3 with Raceline or Methods w-12mm offset or zero(with 1 1/4spacers) $2.5k

lift go with tried and true OME 850j/863 with L shocks-$1k
Doninson 5 degree caster plates-$150

Brake Lines-trail gear $80

build your own sway bar drop brackets-$20
Regear 5.29 elite ring pinion-$380
Install $800

White Knuckle Sliders- $800(Paint yourself)

well over $8k but will make it a complete rig ready to tackle the Rubicon!

 

[80t0ylc]

I just sold my Tacoma, so I've got $8000 to spend on the 80. Lifting it and putting 37's on her is the primary goal. I'm currently all stock. So if you found yourself in my shoes, how would you spend it? What lift/rim/tire combo would you buy, and if money was left over, what else would you do? Also, I've done all maintenance on it phh, etc, so don't worry about that.

To answer your question and to help you the best, we need to know how you plan to use your 80. "Lifting it and putting 37's on" tells us nothing. If you want to crawl on trails like Fordyce or the Rubicon, a 4" lift and 37's will almost get you there, but is really not necessary if you're planning on overlanding. See where I'm going with this? $8K will not last long and is just a start whichever way you go.

 

[Ntgm37]

4x4 Labs front and Rear w/dual swing outs built-$3.5k or build it yourself $2.2k

37 KM3 with Raceline or Methods w-12mm offset or zero(with 1 1/4spacers) $2.5k

lift go with tried and true OME 850j/863 with L shocks-$1k
Doninson 5 degree caster plates-$150

Brake Lines-trail gear $80

build your own sway bar drop brackets-$20
Regear 5.29 elite ring pinion-$380
Install $800

White Knuckle Sliders- $800(Paint yourself)

well over $8k but will make it a complete rig ready to tackle the Rubicon!

This is the direction I'm after. Thank you. For all others, I'm not going to sell it, I'm going to wheel it and drive it. Not interested in a diesel swap atm, and im going to Moab next year for the first time so I'm preparing now. I will have more money before i go for a bumper, winch, rack, etc. This 8k is specifically ear marked for the suspension and tire/rim combo. I'll be regearing before i go as well. Thanks for the comments thus far!

 

[80t0ylc]

This is the direction I'm after. Thank you. For all others, I'm not going to sell it, I'm going to wheel it and drive it. Not interested in a diesel swap atm, and im going to Moab next year for the first time so I'm preparing now. I will have more money before i go for a bumper, winch, rack, etc. This 8k is specifically ear marked for the suspension and tire/rim combo. I'll be regearing before i go as well. Thanks for the comments thus far!

Well since my interests are more in overlanding, I can't help much for your suspension and wheel/tire goals, but you're running a '94, like mine. You've got OBD I, so upgrade your engine temp gauge with after market or do the RT Mod to your OEM gauge, because it's not giving you the accuracy you'll need. Also, your OEM radiator is brass/copper and may not be up to the additional stress of the mods you'll be doing and running A/C in 100F heat. You'll do better with an aluminum TYC 1918 or even a Ron Davis all aluminum, if you've got the funds (aprox $1K). Also, I'd suggest a belly pan style of skidplate like my Creepersleeper ......you'll need the protection for wheelin'. You'll get all kinds of recommends for a front bumper, but the ARB, IMHO gives outstanding all around protection.

 

[Cass007]

DOBINSONS 3.0-4.0" FLEXI-SERIES LONG TRAVEL LIFT KIT FOR TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 80 SERIES - $2530 + shipping
Slee - Stainless Brake Line Kit – Axle to Caliper – ’93-97 Land Cruiser / LX 450 with ABS - $130 + shipping
White Knuckle Sliders - Toyota 80 Series Land Cruiser / Lexus LX450 Rock Sliders - $765 + shipping
4Crawler 1" Body Lift - $110 + shipping
Method Race Wheels - 105 Series Real Beadlocks - 5 Wheels - $2054 + tax & shipping
37" Tires - BFG KM3 - ~$1750 + mounting and balancing (I prefer Yokohamas, but that's me)
Custom Bump Stops - ~$120

That puts you at ~$8k with tax and shipping for things and will get you off-road. To do it proper you would still need some armor underneath and front and rear bumpers, winch and other odds and ends, so another $5-8k IMO. Oh, and install if you can't do all that yourself ... and it's not easy.

 

[Box Rocket]

Stage 4 Slinky kit and 37's will be an awesome start and one you won't regret.
80Ser_Stg4 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

 

[ajordan1975]

DOBINSONS 3.0-4.0" FLEXI-SERIES LONG TRAVEL LIFT KIT FOR TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 80 SERIES - $2530 + shipping
Slee - Stainless Brake Line Kit – Axle to Caliper – ’93-97 Land Cruiser / LX 450 with ABS - $130 + shipping
White Knuckle Sliders - Toyota 80 Series Land Cruiser / Lexus LX450 Rock Sliders - $765 + shipping
4Crawler 1" Body Lift - $110 + shipping
Method Race Wheels - 105 Series Real Beadlocks - 5 Wheels - $2054 + tax & shipping
37" Tires - BFG KM3 - ~$1750 + mounting and balancing (I prefer Yokohamas, but that's me)
Custom Bump Stops - ~$120

That puts you at ~$8k with tax and shipping for things and will get you off-road. To do it proper you would still need some armor underneath and front and rear bumpers, winch and other odds and ends, so another $5-8k IMO. Oh, and install if you can't do all that yourself ... and it's not easy.

You forgot the regear of diffs to help push the 37's

 

[Corbet]

Slee 4" with Slee ADS remote shocks. Front axle moved forward 1". All the other goodies to correct caster and pinion angles, longer brake lines, swaybar drops, double carden, etc... If your lucky after fitting 37's properly you might have enough to re-gear. A high end shock is not required but will be appreciated with all the extra un-spung weight of 37's.

 

[Cass007]

You forgot the regear of diffs to help push the 37's

Just regear the diff at some point. Cheaper and easier imo. I do fine on the stock gears on the roads, wish I had the lower range done when doing rock garden trails.

I knew if I mentioned Dobinsons that @Box Rocket would appear with Slinky and Icon

Since we are doing pics now .... I don't have a good glamour shot of it all clean on the pavement though.

 

[ajordan1975]

Just regear the diff at some point. Cheaper and easier imo. I do fine on the stock gears on the roads, wish I had the lower range done when doing rock garden trails.

I knew if I mentioned Dobinsons that @Box Rocket would appear with Slinky and Icon

Since we are doing pics now .... I don't have a good glamour shot of it all clean on the pavement though.
View attachment 2456757

View attachment 2456758

View attachment 2456759

Out west 37's and stock gears, you're asking for trouble. It'll barley climb a pass, you'll likely overheat, and propbably kill your trans in the process....

 

[Ntgm37]

Stage 4 Slinky kit and 37's will be an awesome start and one you won't regret.
80Ser_Stg4 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Untitled by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Do you have a link to this kit?

 

[Azca]

I would focus on driveability when making a decision. If you had a blank check, adjustable shocks and slinkys. You don't have a blank check so you need to decide on what/where you want to go. So, there are things that should/must be done first before you allocate money to the shock/spring combo.

On the suspension I highly recomend the Delta arms and rear panhard bracket. Get the bushes from them as well. Get swaybar drop brackets and rear bump stops from your vender of choice. Don't forget the extended brake lines and you can get replacements from Toyotas (different vehicle platforms, there is at least one post here with the part numbers). You will need to do something with the LSPV with the lift, again decisions. I would also replace the rear lower arms with beefier products. Skids and plating start playing a role as well.

After tires (use stock rims to save money) you absolutely will need to do something with the gearing if you are going with 37s. Again, money no option, regear with 4.88s or 5.11s depending on projected highway use. If you are trying to save a few $, go with the 10% underdrive and low range reduction gears. At the very least, go with the low range reduction, substantial improvement there.

For the lift, 37s and clearance become an issue so you will need a minimum of 3" with 4" being desirable but, cost goes way up for the 4" if you do it right. The type of lift depends on how you drive or how you like it to ride. I would go with the adjustable shocks to start, OME (from my understanding) makes a moderately priced shock that you can tune to your needs. I would do a slinky kit and stay away from OME springs because, IMO, they are stiff and older folks drive slower and don't want to get beat up as much.

All of that said, going to 37s gets very spendy. I also have heard that driveline issues with the front drive shaft as well as durability issues arise with the 37s. It all adds up to significant money. The late Tools R Us, as well as many other very knowledgeable people loved and highly recommended going the 37 route indicating that there was actually less stress overall as you can roll over objects easier. So, to save money, stay off the skinny pedal.

I

 

[Corbet]

I should have ended my post with 33's so I'll do it here.

If $8K is the build budget I'd stick with 33's. You didn't give us an intended use so I'll assume mild to intermediate wheeling or expo.

With the money you'll save on a nice 2.5" lift and ability to use stock wheels you can gear the t-case, buy some armor, winch, drawers, fridge, communications, RTT, water ever (not all but some). Or just dump some money into PM so that you can continue to enjoy the truck for some time to come.

 

[baldilocks]

 

[slow95z]

if you spend it on anything other than coke and hookers you are living life wrong

 

[retrofive]

if you spend it on anything other than coke and hookers you are living life wrong

Knee deep says @Gumby

 

[Ntgm37]

All of these replies are useful for sure, especially because its up to date and people in the future may be in the same boat as me. Im trying to ascertain what YOU would do if you had a stock 80 with $8k to spend on lifting it. I agree that coke and hookers sounds awsome, I'd love a deisel at some point, and like i mentioned above, im climbing rocks and going on trails. I'm aware of the regear that i will need to do soon, i plan on getting the armor as well, this will be done in January.

So, Lift, Tires, and Rims, looking for 37's. If you have a link to a kit you've used, that would be awesome especially if you can help out with why and why not.

Thanks again guys and gals!

 

[baldilocks]

All of these replies are useful for sure, especially because its up to date and people in the future may be in the same boat as me. Im trying to ascertain what YOU would do if you had a stock 80 with $8k to spend on lifting it. I agree that coke and hookers sounds awsome, I'd love a deisel at some point, and like i mentioned above, im climbing rocks and going on trails. I'm aware of the regear that i will need to do soon, i plan on getting the armor as well, this will be done in January.

So, Lift, Tires, and Rims, looking for 37's. If you have a link to a kit you've used, that would be awesome especially if you can help out with why and why not.

Thanks again guys and gals!

After four years of musical springs, I’m sitting on dobinson 3.5/3” tapered coils with a 1”/30mm spacer front/rear respectively. The spacers are not manditory but I run them for that little extra bit of ground clearance and added up travel without the need to get out my sawzall. To each his own there..... shocks are the yellow, inexpensive dobinson shocks which are valved less aggressively on the compression side than the OME shocks and if you run the tapered springs you’ll be able to run the 6” lift shocks that dobinson sells which are considerably longer than OME L shocks and will allow for more down travel. These shocks cost $125/ea and work well enough. I do notice some fade after a long while of working them hard especially in warm weather but I don’t dash through the desert at high speed so I’m not motivated to spend big bucks on shocks just yet.

As mentioned before you will regret not correcting geometry as much as possible. I built my own rear track bar axle riser bracket but @Delta VS makes and sells a very nice bolt in unit. This will help to keep the rear end feeling more stable on the road. I run the Delta front radius arms in the 6” flavor with something like 5” actual lift. Not only will these arms correct castor angle, they also move the axle forward to where is was pre-lift minimizing the amount of fender trimming needed on a lower lift with 37’s. My castor is about 5 degrees and I’m happy with how it drives for a rig on 5” lift and 37” tire mounted on only the stock 16” wheels.

Two guys I know on Mud, and whom I’ve wheeled with, moved away from the Slinky coils and into Dobinsons and Tough Dogs because they felt the slinky’s were too stiff. They both confirm that that the others I mentioned we more plush and compliant on the trail.

If you really do plan to use your 80 off road and didn’t buy it for camping at state parks and going to Dairy Queen on sataurday evening, then give serious thought to the Delta VS radius arms rather than castor correction plates. I ran Slee 4” plates for a few years and they barely correct castor angle on 3” lift plus they get beat to heck and will bend. The delta arms offer great tie rod clearance as well as ground clearance due to their curved design and being narrower than other arms out there they can deflect the rubber bushings further before binding. binding hard inside the axle brackets not only limits travel but also puts a lot of stress on the brackets themselves. Axle brackets have been known to crack in the parent metal as well as at the weld cracking the axle housing.

Also figure on buying a DC front driveline at a minimum. I run DC shafts front and rear.