Help me plan for a 2FE (5 Viewers)

[Trollhole]

One more messy job down. All rods have a mass between 935g and 937g with big end mass of 723g or 724g. Much better than the starting point

I know your going to hate me for saying this. But you don't grind horizontal to the beam. Basically your leaving thousands of lines that can cause a crack.

You need to go back and get rid of those lines. Use a drum sander and keep the beam cool while doing it. If you want to make them stronger polish them.

 

[RockDoc]

I thought someone was going to give me hell for grinding on the beam at all. Good to know, I'll go back over with a flap disk or some sand paper to even them out.

 

[pappy]

That document was done for the 1988 model year. In 1989 they used a different ECU. I wonder if the feature was removed from programming? Like I've said, I'm too chicken to take my long stroke past 4000. Besides, my power curves drops off at 4000 so there really isn't much point to spinning faster.

 

[RockDoc]

 

[RockDoc]

The beams and "pin wraps" of the rods have been polished to remove any grinding knicks. Balance is still pretty good, all within 3 grams I think it was...

Had a buddy help me lift the block up on an engine stand, and I got the crank out tonight. It and the block are soaked with kerosene to loosen any grime/sludge left on them. The main bearings look pretty good.

Think I'll take the crank in to be balanced, as it doesn't turn freely enough in the block with caps removed to let it "settle" and show imbalance. Better get on that and getting the valves installed and head shaved in the next couple of days, would like to have this thing buttoned up by the end of the month.

 

[RockDoc]

While I was cleaning things up last night, I checked all the piston pins and the retaining bolts. They all came in at 180g (well one may have been 179g), so it looks like the pistons and pins in these engines are good for balance, it's just the rods that suck donkey schlong. (Jury is out on the crank, it went in to the machinist yesterday for balancing when I took the head in to have the valves installed)

The block is all cleaned up, so I think I'll throw some paint on the exterior to bind any remaining free "dirt" before I start cleaning and assembling inside it.

 

[RockDoc]

Rustoleum hammered black paint is on the block

 

[PabloCruise]

That does not look black...

 

[RockDoc]

Not black-black, but it has a hammered metallic look to it. More like a textured metallic charcoal. It looks darker in person.

 

[RockDoc]

Anyone have thoughts on whether I should order in the fuel pump block off plate gasket and oil filter/cooler assembly gasket (to the block) or just use form a gasket for them? I believe they are the only gaskets I don't have my hands on right now. I'm pretty confident form a gasket will be fine for the block off plate, but not so sure with the pressure of the oil for the other.


Tried to get a better pic, but the paint surface has too much sheen and texture to give a pic without back-scattering the flash. You might be able to get an idea from the right hand side of the ribbing in this pic:

 

[PabloCruise]

I like the color!

Next engine I rebuild will be a lighter color like that. I do not know why everyone repaints a rebuilt engine black - can't see any oil leaks!

 

[RockDoc]

Coolant volume in the block has been acid flushed and descaled to the best of my DIY ability. Acid flush, rinse, acid flush, rinse, rinse with some baking soda to neutralize, rinsed again, then did my best to remove any remaining loose stuff by unceremoniously inverting the block to dump the water/sediment mix, then flushing from the front of the block back to the drain fitting while breaking up whatever solids wouldn't pass though on their own. Sure looks a hell of a lot better than it did originally.

Time to check the bores for taper with the rings and a feeler gauge..... and track down a press I can use to separate the camshaft(s) from the timing gear(s).

 

[RockDoc]

Went through and checked each of the bores using the ring gap method, and there is no noticable taper to the bores Interestingly, all the second rings fell in the 0.50-0.60mm range of gap, but the compression rings ranged from 0.65-0.95mm. I think the bores will be good with a quick glaze-breaking, and I'll have to track down a new set of rings. Anybody have advice on brand? What facing material do I want to use with a DIY glaze-break? (off to see what the books say....) I'm guessing the Moly rings from TRW or Sealed Power are what I am looking for?

Timing gear separation attempt 2 didn't work any better than the first, so I still need to find a press to use...

 

[RockDoc]

Some pics...

First, 3FE oil pan vs. 2F oil pan. I think I've read somewhere on mud that the 3FE pan has superceeded the 2F pan in the parts catalogue, but looking at toyodiy, the 2F pan part numbers are listed as 12101-61010, 61011, 61012 & 61013 while the 3FE pan is listed as 12101-61030. I'm going to try the 3FE pan on the 2FE first and go with it if it fits or can be easily modded to fit, as I like the horizontal baffle better.

3FE pan on left, 2F pan on right:

I've also gone through pumps from both the 3FE and 2F. The 2F part number is superceed by the 3FE part number. I couldn't tell the difference between the pumps, other than the 3FE example I have showing less wear internally, and having more of a coked coating

I lightly chamfered the edges of the ports inside the 3FE pump, and it will go in the new engine.

Cleaner 2F on left, 3FE on right:

How coked the 3FE pump was when pulled:

The chamfers:

 

[PabloCruise]

Does the 3FE "coke" its internals due to the PCV being in the valve cover vs. side cover for the 2F?

 

[cody c]

Does the 3FE "coke" its internals due to the PCV being in the valve cover vs. side cover for the 2F?

This would affect heat in the bottom end?

Hey curtis, another great write up!
I wonder if the coking is due to higher temps down in the oil pan, do you think the 3FE might benefit from an oil cooler, or cooling fins on the oil pan?

Also i wonder if the coking is neccesarily a bad thing, if it may act in a way as a lubricant/coating on some components?

 

[pappy]

I wonder if the coking is due to higher temps down in the oil pan, do you think the 3FE might benefit from an oil cooler, or cooling fins on the oil pan?

The 3FE has the same oil cooler as the later 2F.

 

[cody c]

The 3FE has the same oil cooler as the later 2F.

can it be upgraded? it seems to me the difference between the 2 motors would be heat, is the 3FE made to run a little hotter?, or could this be an indication of oil quality or something else?

 

[PabloCruise]

...do you think the 3FE might benefit from an oil cooler, or cooling fins on the oil pan?

The 3FE has the same oil cooler as the later 2F.

I was just about to type that my 3FE has an oil cooler. But when I pulled my valve cover, my rockers looked much more coked than my 2F.

 

[RockDoc]

Does the 3FE "coke" its internals due to the PCV being in the valve cover vs. side cover for the 2F?

I've wondered myself. Seems I've seen pics of grimy 3FEs and comments on 2Fs not being that bad before. I'm hoping to be able to use the 2F valve cover and the side cover PCV valve on this beast, likely through a catch can.
Could mixture have an effect via blow-by? Don't know what else could effect the environment inside the engine... or maybe us 3FE guys just don't take care of our engines as well.