help I was tightening bolts underneath my lx then al the others were tighteneing well
But this one broke now what?
But this one broke now what?
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inkpot
SILVER Star
Is the pan leaking at that position? If not, then just drive it.
- Thread starter
- #4
Will it leak its in a corner, if I extract it can I put a new bolt in?
indeed....new bold - provided you don't damage the internal threads....
not sure what you mean by "broke"
if the head is completely sheared - go for something like this...
Damaged Screw Extractor and Remove Set by Aisxle, Easily Remove Stripped or Damaged Screws. Made From H.S.S. 4341#, the Hardness Is 62-63hrc, Set of 4 Stripped Screw Removers - - Amazon.com
tis indeed not optimal - will likely leak a bit - but nothing super worry abouts....
Bf
not sure what you mean by "broke"
if the head is completely sheared - go for something like this...
Damaged Screw Extractor and Remove Set by Aisxle, Easily Remove Stripped or Damaged Screws. Made From H.S.S. 4341#, the Hardness Is 62-63hrc, Set of 4 Stripped Screw Removers - - Amazon.com
tis indeed not optimal - will likely leak a bit - but nothing super worry abouts....
Bf
- Thread starter
- #6
The head is gone, if I extract it can I put a new bolt in or will it need to be rethreaded
yes indeed - provided you don't jack up the internal threads -
tis basically a two step process - "burnish" the head - then filp the bit and (hopefully) it grabs good metal
and is able to unscrew the bolt -
they key is to not over "burnish" - where in you are then drilling into the "block threads"
am guessing you will be on your back a lot - hope you have a right angle drill and head lamp too...
Bf
tis basically a two step process - "burnish" the head - then filp the bit and (hopefully) it grabs good metal
and is able to unscrew the bolt -
they key is to not over "burnish" - where in you are then drilling into the "block threads"
am guessing you will be on your back a lot - hope you have a right angle drill and head lamp too...
Bf
maxamillion2345
Franken-80
Left hand bit
Or take it to someone with a welder and tack a nut onto it, if you can
The heat will help loosen it and then back it out with a socket
Or take it to someone with a welder and tack a nut onto it, if you can
The heat will help loosen it and then back it out with a socket
Just leave it, it's not a big deal
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
x2
Mark a spot on the broken stud with a punch; this will give the drill a place to start. Use a left hand bit (your extractor set should come with one, if it doesn't they're cheap) no more than half the diameter of the pan bolt. Drill into the stud about 1 1/2 times as deep as the stud diameter. The extractor will do the rest.
More than likely was some trash in the hole that caught the bolt. Use the FSM torque values and you'll be fine. If you're really scared about it, clean the hole with a tap before installing the new bolt. If you do this, use A LOT of tapping fluid; taps are not bolts and will break. You won't get it out if it does.
I'm partial to this procedure.
- Thread starter
- #13
Alright thanks a little worried about going into the block, I'll try not to go in very far
How long was the bolt, and how much came out? Meaning did it break off at the block? Or is there a piece sticking out of the block? If there is a piece sticking out you should be able to unscrew it as long as you didn't cross thread it. If it is below the block surface you should be able to unscrew it using anleft hand drill bit once again; as long went you didn't cross thread it. But if you cross threaded it you're not going to have much luck with an extractor. You'll need to get a nice accurate punch mark dead center. Then drill with a small bit and keep working up in size making sure with each successive bit that you're not going at an angle or off center. Do that until you reach the slightly past the tap drill size and then use a pick to remove the remaining thread material. Then you can safely re-tap the hole...but hopelfully is sheared off and isn't cross threaded. Fingers crossed.
John McVicker
SILVER Star
Leave it.
It's not going to leak as the result of this broken bolt. And not likely you will ever need to remove the pan again.
It's not going to leak as the result of this broken bolt. And not likely you will ever need to remove the pan again.
park in front of the neighbor's house so you don't sully up your own driveway 
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
Before I shoot my opinion - we're talking one of the perimeter bolts of the oilpan flange, either the upper or lower pan (sorta 2 pans before the block, if you look close)
If perimeter bolt, just clean with acetone & glob a bunch of RTV to remind you the situation. I like the grey permatex since you can seal a 3rd member to a axle shell with it, and it holds. -Keep an eye on it awhile, get to know how it behaves.
If it's the pan drain bolt you pull for oil, aside from fixing it you now will have to buy one of the fluid evacuators that use a hard pipe down through the dipstick guide tube.
- I have one from Griot's that I use for my BMW, that thing sits so low you need ramps to get it on the lift or get a floorjack under - for oil changes it's quicker than conventional way & you can wreck a cold one standing there watching it. That never gets old BTW.
If fixing, the weld method is my preferred, but I weld & can control my heat - in this case you will prob scorch the gasket & it'll need a R&R - so by that alone you might RTV glob it & call it good. Pan drain bolt there's just the washer, so you can heat that plenty.
If perimeter bolt, just clean with acetone & glob a bunch of RTV to remind you the situation. I like the grey permatex since you can seal a 3rd member to a axle shell with it, and it holds. -Keep an eye on it awhile, get to know how it behaves.
If it's the pan drain bolt you pull for oil, aside from fixing it you now will have to buy one of the fluid evacuators that use a hard pipe down through the dipstick guide tube.
- I have one from Griot's that I use for my BMW, that thing sits so low you need ramps to get it on the lift or get a floorjack under - for oil changes it's quicker than conventional way & you can wreck a cold one standing there watching it. That never gets old BTW.
If fixing, the weld method is my preferred, but I weld & can control my heat - in this case you will prob scorch the gasket & it'll need a R&R - so by that alone you might RTV glob it & call it good. Pan drain bolt there's just the washer, so you can heat that plenty.
Those ones are easy
Step 1 go by bolt extractor
Step 2 center punch the broken bolt
Step 3 use 40 drill bit drill down center of bolt stay straight
Step 4 load drill easy out go as deep on your drilling as the easy out needs, one side easy out drills ( but sucks for drilling use the bit) then use the other end put drill on reverse if it locks up and grabs it will unscre the bolt, those bolts only get like 7ft lbs if that.
I'll post link to the style easy out I'm talking bout.
You might pull rest pan off to make this easier sending on if bolt extractor gets in there easy enough. If you pull pan clean old fipg off and use new fipg for oil do 2 beads and put back together
Step 1 go by bolt extractor
Step 2 center punch the broken bolt
Step 3 use 40 drill bit drill down center of bolt stay straight
Step 4 load drill easy out go as deep on your drilling as the easy out needs, one side easy out drills ( but sucks for drilling use the bit) then use the other end put drill on reverse if it locks up and grabs it will unscre the bolt, those bolts only get like 7ft lbs if that.
I'll post link to the style easy out I'm talking bout.
You might pull rest pan off to make this easier sending on if bolt extractor gets in there easy enough. If you pull pan clean old fipg off and use new fipg for oil do 2 beads and put back together
