I think Marlin addressed this with the recess in the plate. That's why I am looking for a pic
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Just saw it in the pics you posted. So that's not the issue. Back to the collar. Thanks Stump
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The collar is awfully close to the splines. Are you sure there is not a recess there?
I was looking for the recess in the Mc24 plate. It is there and Cam was right. It is the updated version of the plate. In the pics Stump posted you can see it. Lower left hand side toward bottom
I was looking at the output shaft in one of the pictures. It kind of looks like the shaft tapers down to the splines right at the end of the spacer where the collar mounts.
what about the actuator (sliding) arm of 5th gear? could that hit the plate?
I'm grasping at straws here.
I'm grasping at straws here.
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- #127
I did get some but my phone cramped out 2 days ago.
2x on grinding the rod I think it is just touching the plate.
But I'm with Stump we are grasping at straws!!
2x on grinding the rod I think it is just touching the plate.
But I'm with Stump we are grasping at straws!!
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I really think the fact that it works properly after we put it together and then fails after that many miles means movement from the collar. But I really know NOTHING I am just guessing.
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- #129
I found the pics I took backed up in drop box.
The shaft on the far side that the shift fork rides on. Does that move?
The shaft on the far side that the shift fork rides on. Does that move?
That upper right shaft doesn't move, IIRC, the fork rides on it. I think the collar is moving; like it might be slightly too big for the shaft?
In the pic it does look like the shaft decreases in diameter where the collar rides. Could be optical illusion in pic. It's kind of weird to me that there isn't a snap ring, or set bolt recess, or anything in the shaft to keep the collar from sliding. Perhaps in te stock config, there are no clearence issues, and there is generally not a lot of force trying to slide the collar on the shaft.
The 'rufusthedufus' thread is what I read about shaving being required as well. Granted I'm talking out of my butt here, not having seen any of the parts in person but IF you pull it apart again, what would be the harm in deepening the recess in the Marlin plate, to make more clearence, AND shaving the shift fork/rail to make more clearence? Is there enough meat in both places so as not to weaken either component excessively? I'm assuming shaving shift fork/rail requires a certain amount of disassembly that you don't want to do more times than needed. Is it possible to see/test the shift fork/rail clearence in action on the bench before putting whole unit back in truck?
Best of luck buddy. Still wish I was there to help.
The 'rufusthedufus' thread is what I read about shaving being required as well. Granted I'm talking out of my butt here, not having seen any of the parts in person but IF you pull it apart again, what would be the harm in deepening the recess in the Marlin plate, to make more clearence, AND shaving the shift fork/rail to make more clearence? Is there enough meat in both places so as not to weaken either component excessively? I'm assuming shaving shift fork/rail requires a certain amount of disassembly that you don't want to do more times than needed. Is it possible to see/test the shift fork/rail clearence in action on the bench before putting whole unit back in truck?
Best of luck buddy. Still wish I was there to help.
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- #132
The shaft can't neck down. The bearing was riding on the shaft next to the spacer.
But that doesn't meen the collet didn't move.
But that doesn't meen the collet didn't move.
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- #133
The top pic is we're we found the ring the second time we pulled it apart. The lower pic was were we pul the ring the first time we assembled it!! And the next post is we're we put it the second time.
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- #134
This is were we put the ring the second time. It looks to be the same spot as the first time!!
We have proof the collar is moving!!
iptman
SILVER Star
So what's the fix?
Looking at those pics again, something struck me;
Is there a possiblity that not enough length was taken off the shaft, so that it bottoms out in the next component, thus forcing the shaft farther in the opposite direction during assembly, forcing the collar to slide on the shaft because it is bottoming out on the spacer?
Please don't be offended by my questions/suggestions. Just trying to help from 1000 miles away.
Is there a possiblity that not enough length was taken off the shaft, so that it bottoms out in the next component, thus forcing the shaft farther in the opposite direction during assembly, forcing the collar to slide on the shaft because it is bottoming out on the spacer?
Please don't be offended by my questions/suggestions. Just trying to help from 1000 miles away.
Maybe so... the collar is about 1/8" farther out in th 1st pic. Look at the splines in each.
Or...If not the shaft length itself, was there an overabundance of grease on the end of the shaft that got forced into the next component, and assuming it's a dead end, it would not be able to be compressed, possibly forcing the shaft in the opposite direction during assembly?
Every time you shift gears one of the shift collars is moved onto a tapered synchro ring to slow down or speed up the selected gear, creating thrust on the main shaft either forward or rearward depending on which gear is selected. In stock configuration Toyota uses a substantial lock nut to stack all the bearings and hubs against the shoulders on the main shaft, this eliminates or at least minimizes the amount that the main shaft can move back and forth in the housing. If the problem with this setup is that the split collar isn't tightening with enough force on the shaft to withstand the back and forth thrusting of the main shaft while in operation I'd dog it to the shaft. Drill a hole through the OD into the center of the collar and tap it with say a 5/16"-18 thread or so. Drill slightly (dimple it) into the shaft where the collar needs to say and screw with loctite a short set screw through the collar into the dimple of the shaft to positively lock it. We dogged a lot of collars, gears, hubs etc to shafts over the years. I don't know exactly what's happening with this application, just offering a suggestion long distance from PA. One way or another I hope you guys get this sorted out and back together for Steve-O's sake! Best of luck!
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- #140
We tighted the collar as tight as we dared to. I think dogging the shaft is the answer. But may need a different collar. The current collar is only 3/8"-1/2" wide.
