Grey Gardens FJ62LG-PNEA: An idiots guide to resurrecting a high mileage FJ62 (10 Viewers)

HemiAlex

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Final parts are on their way (hopefully).

Bilstein Shocks:
24-010047
24-011327

Front wheel studs for hub rebuild. 3 were cross threaded and I consider it a huge safety issue to replace them every 300,000 miles.

90942-02053 (12)

Front sway bar end link rebuild parts (I couldn't bring myself to spend $15 on the aftermarket, I have a huge problem...) This will cover the front end stabilizer end links for a 60 and 62.

0148817F94183-608000208.1987 - 01.1990NUT (FOR FRONT STABILIZER BAR)FJ62
0148817A90948-020320808.1987 - 01.1990RETAINER, CUSHION, NO.1 (FOR FRONT STABILIZER BAR)FJ62
014881748817-300100808.1987 - 01.1990CUSHION, FRONT STABILIZERFJ62

0148817B90948-020150208.1987 - 01.1990RETAINER, CUSHION, NO.2 (FOR FRONT STABILIZER BAR)FJ62
0148817C90387-090060208.1987 - 01.1990COLLAR (FOR STABILIZER BAR)FJ62
014881548815-200600208.1987 - 01.1990BUSH, FRONT STABILIZER BAR, NO.1FJ62

Std Part
0190101-08055 Bolt x2

Next up I'll get a set of OEM rotors and call the front end parts purchases done.

image_2022-05-11_132411278.png
 

HemiAlex

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CruiserTrash

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@HemiAlex Mamabear-related tangent question: Do you know offhand the OEM part numbers for the longer brake lines for the front and rear? I read about it a long time ago on here and can't find the info again. Something about using a rear soft line on the front, and then either an 80 Series part or a clutch soft line for the rear? These are for the central lines that drop down from higher up to the axle. Obviously OEM length on the two front soft lines at the knuckles is no issue, and the hard lines run straight to the rear on left and right.

I want to replace all of the soft lines on Matilda before SAS. because, you know, stopping is good on steep inclines.
 

4Cruisers

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@HemiAlex Mamabear-related tangent question: Do you know offhand the OEM part numbers for the longer brake lines for the front and rear? I read about it a long time ago on here and can't find the info again. Something about using a rear soft line on the front, and then either an 80 Series part or a clutch soft line for the rear? These are for the central lines that drop down from higher up to the axle. Obviously OEM length on the two front soft lines at the knuckles is no issue, and the hard lines run straight to the rear on left and right.

I want to replace all of the soft lines on Matilda before SAS. because, you know, stopping is good on steep inclines.
@Godwin has posted on this topic, which I followed pretty much for my '86 FJ60 build. The rear brake line goes to the front, and a rear brake line from another Toyota model goes on the back. A search should help.
 

Godwin

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@HemiAlex Mamabear-related tangent question: Do you know offhand the OEM part numbers for the longer brake lines for the front and rear? I read about it a long time ago on here and can't find the info again. Something about using a rear soft line on the front, and then either an 80 Series part or a clutch soft line for the rear? These are for the central lines that drop down from higher up to the axle. Obviously OEM length on the two front soft lines at the knuckles is no issue, and the hard lines run straight to the rear on left and right.

I want to replace all of the soft lines on Matilda before SAS. because, you know, stopping is good on steep inclines.

Brake line info somewhere in here 80 series rear axle with front axle Tundra brake mod - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/80-series-rear-axle-with-front-axle-tundra-brake-mod.1170432/
 

orangefj45

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Rear output housing is one bolt position off (needs to turn 60-degrees counter clockwise).
You’ll see the tab that lines up
I e seen multiple cases built that way; typically an attempt to keep the Speedo cable up and out of harms way. And if the inner speedo seal leaks, the oil will “drain” back into the Tcase.

I build them to factory specs, but I don’t see a need to pull the case back apart to fix this non-issue.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers
 

cruisermatt

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More important then the rear output housing is the front and rear output flanges being swapped. I think the seal ID’s are different or the dust shield rubs the front case half or something like that
 

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