Builds Goat. A 1967 survivor FJ-45 LWB (1 Viewer)

[reddog90]

Awesome

 

[JasonH]

The "restoration" came out great. Tom and I went back and forth for a while on what we thought was the right way to preserve this thing. It all sounded like way more effort than I wanted to put into someone else's truck. You should be a CLR spokesman.

 

[wngrog]

A true testimonial to you @JasonH is that I didn’t have to undo anything you did to “someone else’s truck”

The trick now is to research what to do next on the surface. I’m 99% sure there will be no clear coat. Ceramics are likely the best methods.

I’m way more motivated to protect the Goat than I have ever been with Patina. 40’s are still 40’s but a US FJ45 is a gem that needs to be protected.

 

[BMThiker]

Don't go this far

 

[middlecalf]

I’ve used flexcoat on my 40 fiberglass roof. Not sure about metal. Note their note about ceramic additives, loss of clearness.

Waterproof Clear Sealers and Clear Finishes

I also it put on these, good UV protection.

 

[Doctor do Little]

A true testimonial to you @JasonH is that I didn’t have to undo anything you did to “someone else’s truck”

The trick now is to research what to do next on the surface. I’m 99% sure there will be no clear coat. Ceramics are likely the best methods.

I’m way more motivated to protect the Goat than I have ever been with Patina. 40’s are still 40’s but a US FJ45 is a gem that needs to be protected.

View attachment 1632602

First.
I have no idea what`s the best to protect the Goat´s skin.
What I did on my gone J4 I stabilised rust spots with oil/grease and it helped. If no humidity can reach sheet metal it can`t rust ...that`s the hidden secret.
A buttered bread can`t rust .
Cheers Peter

Second.

 

[wngrog]

Thanks for that Peter....I finally looked at that video on a computer which led me down the warren hole of You Tube and Boiled Linseed Oil on Patina metal. I actually think it is a good idea. I saw a lot of info on it with very little downside. I may try it on my FJ40 first.......

 

[wngrog]

Brakes.

Ive been looking and thinking and talking to folks about them.

My symptoms are that they need a good pump to make them catch and when they catch, the rears lock up and the fronts don't do much.

I have the fronts adjusted out as far as they will go.

I am guessing the drums on the front are worn out of spec. I am going to try a new set of drums on the front and see if that adds enough material to the front to get them to grab before the rears do.

Otherwise I am looking at a bunch of work so I hope this works.

 

[middlecalf]

Lot of weight difference between front and rear on these pickups. Fronts need to be a lot tighter than the rears.

 

[wngrog]

Yes for sure. The brake pump tells me they are not adjusted right and being as tight as I can adjust them with new shoes tells me the drums must be too thin.

We shall see.

 

[Doctor do Little]

Thanks for that Peter....I finally looked at that video on a computer which led me down the warren hole of You Tube and Boiled Linseed Oil on Patina metal. I actually think it is a good idea. I saw a lot of info on it with very little downside. I may try it on my FJ40 first.......

If it doesn`t work... go this way *.
Cheers Peter

*..... nice front hub caps the Greenie have...no holes in it

 

[Doctor do Little]

Only to show another option .
A car is only "original" once....each car has a story behind it...

Most time of their life these (your/our/ mine ) vintage heroes are stored.
Depends on the humidity in your area and garage if it`s usefull or not.
Remember: Humidity is the beast !!
Cheers Peter

How to choose The Best Garage Dehumidifier

Classic Cars Protection - Munters

 

[wngrog]

I’ve got horrible humidity here but it is covered on all sides. I’m OK with it.

My 40 is in similar shape and it seems to be holding up good in my shop.

One thing I screwed up on was the bumpers. I used the same towel I was using to wipe the CLR off with to dry my bumpers before I sealed them with Rust Converter.

After I treated them they came back with a white color all in the treated metal. I’ve used about 40 cans of this stuff and it’s the only time this has happened.

My fault. Gonna pick up some satin black and just paint it.

 

[BMThiker]

Excuse the noob question, but what are those two 90* bars behind the bumper?

 

[Doctor do Little]

I’ve got horrible humidity here but it is covered on all sides. I’m OK with it.

My 40 is in similar shape and it seems to be holding up good in my shop.

One thing I screwed up on was the bumpers. I used the same towel I was using to wipe the CLR off with to dry my bumpers before I sealed them with Rust Converter.

After I treated them they came back with a white color all in the treated metal. I’ve used about 40 cans of this stuff and it’s the only time this has happened.

My fault. Gonna pick up some satin black and just paint it.

View attachment 1634486

View attachment 1634487

What I always use before painting some stuff is a silicone remover.
Silicone remover is the product used for surface cleaning before lacquering. The silicone, wax or grease soil is very dangerous for the good lacquering effect. The silicone remover may be used for metal or plastic surfaces.

Like this:
Silicone remover - Troton
Cheers Peter

 

[wngrog]

Excuse the noob question, but what are those two 90* bars behind the bumper?

It’s the spare tire lift.

 

[middlecalf]

I dunno, I'd leave it as is, I like that better than a clean black bumper, which for me wouldn't be clean or black very long. I would suspect those white areas might rust anyhow so you could apply the rust converter again?

 

[wngrog]

I know you are right. I need to try sanding those areas and see how that looks.

The Rust Converter ends up being black but it does not look painted.

 

[Michael B]

Try 0000 steel wool first. I suspect it just hazing possibly from humidity.

 

[wngrog]

Try 0000 steel wool first. I suspect it just hazing possibly from humidity.

Just bought some. It’s the CLR. I used the towel that was damp with it to clean the bumper. Bozo move.