Gas tank leak (1 Viewer)

[IDave]

I've noticed a pinhole leak at the top of my 45's tank. Only there when the tank is near full, and it is (actually in 2 places) along the seam. I say pinhole, in that I actually can't see the hole, only that there is a tiny amount of gas in a couple areas that have been painted over. Haven't scraped the paint off yet, but I can see where the paint has been already abraded that the areas were previously brazed.

So, these tanks are unobtainium. I could use the POR system to seal the inside, but I was wondering if, as a patch, anyone has ever successfully epoxy puttied over these tiny seam leaks? It would SEAM like an easy solution, at least temporarily.

 

[NJFJ40]

Just curious - why not re-braze along the area where the leak is?

Yeah - you got to remove and drain the tank and wash it a gazillion times so you don't explode when you weld it but.............seems like the right fix.

AndrewT

 

[camcruiser13]

i would imagine something like quik steel or jb weld would work although i have never tried it on a gas tank, used quik steel on my top and it keeps the water out?

 

[IDave]

Andrew, I agree brazing it is the best way, I am just being lazy, and I don't want to throw out a whole tank of gas at today's Idaho prices. Also, I am just a tiny little bit terrified of the fumes and flame.

Cam, these are the kinds of suggestions I was looking for: I know the solvent properties of the tiny amount of gasoline will make some things fail, so I was wondering what others have had success with.

 

[red66toy]

I had several small leaks in my tank about 2 years ago while I was out camping. I found a small auto parts store and got some gastank sealer epoxy stuff and covered up the holes and then some. It has been fine so far(knock on wood) but should probably line the inside of the tank in the future.

 

[Texican]

I've used JB several fuel tanks on the under side and all have held, make sure it is clean and dry and let it sit for at least 24 hrs, on the top of the tank, I would clean good with acetone and scotchbrite pad dry and JB.
DON'T USE ANY THING THAT COULD SPARK WHEN CLEANING!!!
NO DRILLS, SANDERS, BUFFERS ETC.
Butch

 

[dustin]

I have jb weld on mine where I had to add a return line to my non-smog tank. I had soldered the fitting but I had a small leak. JB weld for the last few years works like a charm.

-Dustin

 

[campy]

Option #1-In the Army we used fiberglass repair kits on the plastic HMMWV's gas tanks. Worked great never leaked again. I carry one in my trail fix gear.

Option #2-On the trail I've seen JBweld used, and the guy swear it's held for his last couple of trips before I saw it.

Option #3-Fix it w/ POR-15. That stuff is great. This option will serve do 2 things, treat your tank for the future & fix you problem. We used it on our aux tanks. It supposedly can seel up a hole bigger than a pencil. There's a Ford antique car shop nearby my work that's got POR products on the shelf cheaper than the list price on the web.

Good luck,
Campy

 

[IDave]

Thanks, guys. It looks like Scotch-brite, acetone, airblow and JBWeld is the way to go. I have everything immediately available. Then, when I do the tranny/trans rebuild in the future, and have things apart, I'll do a POR job.

 

[cruiser_guy]

There's a Ford antique car shop nearby my work that's got POR products on the shelf cheaper than the list price on the web.

Good luck,
Campy

Care to tell us where exactly?

 

[Pin_Head]

Thanks, guys. It looks like Scotch-brite, acetone, airblow and JBWeld is the way to go. I have everything immediately available. Then, when I do the tranny/trans rebuild in the future, and have things apart, I'll do a POR job.

Give it a try.

If it doesn't work or if you have it out for any reason, just take it into your local radiator shop and have them hot tank it and braze it up. They also pressure test it and paint it and it is cheap.

 

[IDave]

Give it a try.

If it doesn't work or if you have it out for any reason, just take it into your local radiator shop and have them hot tank it and braze it up. They also pressure test it and paint it and it is cheap.

That would be an option, but the local radiator shop for me is 110 miles on windy canyon roads one way! Two trips, drop off and pick up, and we're talking real time and money.

 

[Toyo FJ40]

I've had good luck with bondo on fuel oil tanks. Had a new tank leak from the factory and didn't find it till it had been filled and the inspector called for a pressure test on a full tank. Cleaned it and bondoed it and it held 5 psi for the test without leaking. (I was all set to transfer the oil to a new tank when the builder I was working for said just patch it so...).

If you fill the tank with water you can weld it.


Kevin

 

[Pin_Head]

No radiator shop in McCall? I actually rented a condo there for a week on the lake and it is a mighty nice place (except for the mosquitos). Fishing was good. Seemed to me that it would be big enough to support a radiator guy.

 

[IDave]

No radiator shop in McCall? I actually rented a condo there for a week on the lake and it is a mighty nice place (except for the mosquitos). Fishing was good. Seemed to me that it would be big enough to support a radiator guy.

Not yet, anyway. I suppose a radiator shop could appear tomorrow, except for the building moratorium. 'Rain we've been having, the mosquitos will be something else in a week or two. Should be excellent fishing this year.

 

[campy]

Care to tell us where exactly?

Sacramento Vintage
2484 Mercantile Drive
Rancho Cordova CA 95742

I baught all my tank kit stuff here. Their price was eaven better than what the area rep told me it was. I saved some good $ and it was on the shelf. However, if I recall they have or can get the complete line of product that POR offers.
Good Luck,
Campy

 

[haystax]

Why not just use a bar of soap? I've actually got by for quite a while using bar soap on leaking tanks on Honda 110 motorcycles and Briggs engines.

Not sure about filling the tank with water when welding or brazing - the gas floats to the surface and some combustible mixture still remains plus it is a helluva heat sink when brazing -

I've always hooked a hose to a tailpipe and filled the tank with exhaust while welding - for some reason I am always very lightheaded and sleepy afterwards though

 

[TonkaC]

you can fill it with argon when welding it, that works real well. I just put the tip in the inlet with a rag, turn the wire speed to 0, then tie the trigger. Give it a minute and you should be good to go.

 

[Degnol]

Dave, I've had a JBWeld patch on the top of my '66 tank for a long time, a PO kinda thing. It does not leak. I would do what is stated above then sand with some #40 grit, just to scuff it to give good adhesion to the JB.


PinHead, I had my tank cleaned and sealed with the POR schtuff and they said they steam clean....not hot tank gas tanks 'cause the caustic in the hot tank will remove any remaining zinc coating that is left. They used a hunk of chain to knock off the loose scale and steam, then sealed it. The only place it seeps is the gasket on the sending unit and that is only when it is fulllllllllll. I guess if you are sealing it anyway, why worry about any zinc you are removing...but that is what they said.


Ed

 

[GetsUThere]

Eastwood has a spray on zinc coating for use on gas tanks. Never tried it, but probably will when I pull out my gas tank. Gotta be better than nothing? Any idea whether the inside of the tank has zinc coatings too?

Eastwood spray-on zinc stuff