GA 55 left in woods for 20 yrs- 10/73 model

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Here are some more photos. We pressure washed again yesterday, and got at least 5 gallons of dirt off of it. This was after the first pressure washing. I want to remove the glass that is left and get with it on the rust. I was thinking about taking the frame off, but I put it on jack stands and get it pretty high off of the ground. I am thinking, I will wire brush the underside and the frame, rust treat it and paint. Then use undercoating and mop it on everything on the underside. I am going to try and replace the springs and some of the front end steering parts, so I am not so concerned with getting the rust on them removed and stabilized. I am picking up the fuel tank today. It had 3 inches of crud in it. The guy looked down neck and laughed. It should be like new now. I will post a photo of it when I get back.

My other thing to do is to make a list of all of the things I need to do, and the parts needed to get this beast going again. Then I can check things off as I go. My first re-work is going to be to restore all of the hinges, but I do not know the best source for the 40 pins and bushings. I am going to check with the local Toyo dealer first.

inside cargo under window 3.webp


under ear underside near rear axle.webp


underside above fuel tank and some frame.webp
 
Midgainc said:
Will the 40 springs work? There a lot of places to get them.
Click to expand...

Will preface with the fact I've no more than Internet knowledge on this subject and I'm sure someone will be along to correct, shortly.

40 guys use 55 springs, I believe, to gain the ability to move axles further from TC, so think the 55 springs must be longer, but an assumption.

75 Series springs have been used and Cruiser Outfitters adapted an OME offering in a "kit" form. Still think it requires relocation the shackle mount, again assumption. (On the top of you screen, in the Pig Preservation forum, there should be a "Stickies" tab. Click on it and it should highlight both of these options).

Customs are always an option, be it Alcan or similar, but think around $1,200 for all.

Pighead's suggestion of re-arching mine, since I'm attempting to keep all the metal that it came with intact, was validated by his experience with his own re-arching.

Said he had done ten (??) years ago and still wheeling it.....harder than I'll ever see on pavement.



image-1562341916.webp


I can see the steel fatigue argument being valid on a coil, that's of much lighter spring stock, but I don't think that the arched plates are as prone to fatigue and reason I'm opting to do....at, probably, similar or more expense than buying customs.

image-1562341916.webp
 
now i really dont know what i am going to do. I guess i dont have to make my mind up today. I would like to think that new would be better, and I like the OME kit on http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/suspension.html

It is a one stop shopping trip for the suspension, gives the lift that I am looking for, and also includes a steering dampener. I wish that I knew someone who has used it.

I have had trucks with worn out suspension, and I do not want to go down that road again....no pun intended. I will be rebuilding the steering components, the front axle, brakes, etc. why skimp on the suspension? Seriously, I am looking into the brake kit here:

http://www.cruiserparts.net/parts/parts/diskbrakes.html

I want this thing to be right and ready for a 1,000 mile trip. I want it to be able to haul the factory GVW without sagging terribly, and I do not want to knick knack around fixing stuff all of the time with this thing into perpetuity. I am a driver more than a tinkerer. I have just had to tinker because I could not afford to have someone else do all of the work.
 
This is why I'm so glad that my only concern on this project is a little lift and custom shocks.

Every other "build" took years to put together suspension for and neither of those two are really "done" yet.

Evening crew may offer more viable solutions based on many years experience. I'd hang out for their input before worrying too much about.
 
I called driveline in Atlanta today. To re-arch and add one leaf to the rear springs will cost just south of a grand if I just drop off the truck, or about $700 if I just drop off the springs. They quoted $450 labor to install the OME kit I mentioned in #64. So, for about $2100 I can have brand new suspension and watch it get installed. Once I put disks on the front and service the rear, The way I see it is that I would be DONE with axles and suspension for a very long time. Overhauled engine = DONE for a very long time... New paint, all major rust areas removed and replaced = DONE for very long time. I can see these things happening. If I look at it this way, my biggest problem is the tailgate. BUT, I don't want to do this wrong. Making poor choices can screw things up for a very long time, and screw up my billfold too.
 
For what it's worth, I went the Cruiser Outfitters route, on my '69. The "heavy duty" spring set. I'm very happy with the results. The ride on the road is firm but not harsh, it's a truck not a Caddy. Off road it handles dirt roads without airing down the tires.
If this set lasts as long as the original, 44 years, I'll be over 100 years old when they have to be replaced. I hope Kurt is still in business.
 
Midgainc said:
now i really dont know what i am going to do. I guess i dont have to make my mind up today. I would like to think that new would be better, and I like the OME kit on http://www.cruiseroutfitters.com/suspension.html

It is a one stop shopping trip for the suspension, gives the lift that I am looking for, and also includes a steering dampener. I wish that I knew someone who has used it.

I have had trucks with worn out suspension, and I do not want to go down that road again....no pun intended. I will be rebuilding the steering components, the front axle, brakes, etc. why skimp on the suspension? Seriously, I am looking into the brake kit here:

http://www.cruiserparts.net/parts/parts/diskbrakes.html

I want this thing to be right and ready for a 1,000 mile trip. I want it to be able to haul the factory GVW without sagging terribly, and I do not want to knick knack around fixing stuff all of the time with this thing into perpetuity. I am a driver more than a tinkerer. I have just had to tinker because I could not afford to have someone else do all of the work.
Click to expand...

A few folks on here have used Kurt's kit. Search in IPPS and read what they posted.
Last I knew about that kit you had to relocate the rear spring shackle hanger rear-ward.
Just my $0.02, but if you are rebuilding for the long haul, and you mentioned rebuilding steering components, I would highly recommend doing the 60 series power steering conversion. You haven't been able to drive your Pig around with the manual steering yet. I drove my 40 for several years before I did the mod, cant say enough good things about it. See my signature for a link to my PS conversion.
That way you could lay out steering, shocks, springs all at once with a comprehensive plan in place.
Hope that helps.
 
I agree with Pablo. All the planning you're doing and no power steering. Manual steering if fine, but you are going to get tired of it. Start with the 60 box and work from there. Makes it alot easier.

Just my opinion.
 
The thousand bucks was for re-arching both rear springs and adding one leaf to each rear, and included all of the labor. He said most people don't touch the front. Am glad to hear about the heavy duty system. I was afraid it would be too stiff unless loaded pretty heavy.


As for the PS, where is a good source for a one stop shopping trip for all of the parts, and for a whats needed to accommodate 2" of lift? I have been told the Saginaw way requires butchering the front frame....I don't want to do that. Is the 60 the best way to go or are there others? One thing that helps, I guess, is that I can use the 2 belt pulley already on my crank.

I made a list of things to do last night. It was three pages long. One line item was " rebuild engine". There are a lot of steps to get this thing back right. I will start whittling away at the list. Thanks for your input.
 
Midgainc,

I know exactly how you feel, with the list. It can become overwhelming, if you let it. As for me, I don't need to get it done in a short time. Makes it alittle more pleasurable.

Problem with mine, I didn't have a cut and dried plan. I bounced around alot, while working on it and had to backtrack a few times. This adds up to more money being spent. Lessons learned.

Stick to your list! :)
 
I have re-thought my timeline for this. After evaluating the extent of what is needed to be done, and the general difficulty in obtaining parts, I now think it will be longer than I thought to get this beast going. I would like to be finished by the end of the year, but that is probably not likely. I am going to focus on getting the easiest stuff on my list done and tackle the big ones, like welding in body parts, rebuilding engine, paint, etc, when I can dive in and get in done without many distractions. In the mean time, I will continue to gather parts and get as much ready as I can. I picked up the gas tank yesterday. It looks and smells tons better. I had several holes and 2+" of crud, which are now all fixed up. Do you guys recommend a particular fuel line or will any ole line from the parts store be good enough? I think my next doable project is tackling the fuel tank bay, rust treat, paint, and undercoat. Then put the the tank back in.
Next week, I guess I will pulling the trigger on my bobm order. I am getting a second opinion on the holes in my fenders before I commit to the patch panels for them.

My socket came in fri also. We are getting ready to find out about how locked up the engine is....
 
1) what does the tag on the door frame say?

2) I got the upper rear anti-say bar bushings from C.Dan not so long ago..
 
Midgainc said:
2 questions.
1. Do I have a 73 or 74 model pig?
2. Can you still get the bushings for the rear sway bar?
Click to expand...

#2: Yes.

:)

Hell you can still get the engine overhaul parts (04111-600xx) for F and F.5 engines.

We are talking 40 or so years old.

By the way, you are next on my email list tomorrow. Sorry--today was my first day on the job. I know, I'm slacking.

:cheers:
 
Door post says mfg date 10/73. Engine is an F155, at least the valve cover says that. I have read that is an f.5 engine, pretty much an 1f with the oil system of a 2f. I don't know.

Beno,
Check price on all of the bushings for the rear sway bar, please.
 
So a slight update: While working on Delancy's list, I found that the engine (04111) and valve grind (04112) kits are discontinued for the F. Sorry Chris.

They are still available for the F.5

For the F engine, all of the gaskets and seals have to be pieced together going through the catalog one component system at a time.
 
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