This may help, if you don't already have.
http://www.trollholescruisers.com/Tech/Manuals/Engine/1972 F Motor FSM-lowres.pdf
http://www.trollholescruisers.com/Tech/Manuals/Engine/1972 F Motor FSM-lowres.pdf
GA 55 left in woods for 20 yrs- 10/73 model
- Thread starter Midgainc
- Start date
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look just below the valve cover rim on the head betwee #4 and 5 spark plug holes on spark side of head... there was a cast or molten plug pressed in at the factory, after the hot tank or a few hundred thousand miles, they pop out once warmed up, broke in and cruisin down the highway at 60 with the wind and howling tires filling your head...next thing you know, clack clakclakclakclank and there;s no oil pressure and you're done. if that hole ad been on the other side of the head, you'd know the INSTANT the plug blew and have plenty of time to shut down before the mill melts cause you'd see the gushing black smoke coming from under the hood when the oil hit the hot exhaust. Where it's at, you don't find out till your pan is almost dry
so take the head back and have them tap it and plug it with a threaded plug. won't hurt anything and won't have to dis-assemble head to do it, but do if before you go any further and forget about it. as far as the engine goes, I understand there is a piston shortage at the moment for some of the vintage motors, not sure if it affects yours, but you may not have a whole lot of oversize choices. be aware that the engine builder MUST use the proper expansion plug behind the cam NOT A FREEZE plug. the timing cover screws are sequenced so don't screw up where they go or the plate won't set right. the notch in pistons goes to the front, the notch on the head gasket goes to THE REAR, the rods face so that the oil squirter hole on the piston pin yoke is pointing toward the cam. the cam bearings are positioned so that there is oil flow to the head. the oil squirter on the timing plate is not screwed down all the way or oil cannot enter the back side of its bore and there will not be oil to the timing gears. the cam has a press fit gear, key, and snap ring- use them all. DO NOT remove the oil pump mounting block from inside rim of block or it will have to be aligned to prevent breaking distributors. the oil pump may work fine, flip the gears inside it over on their shafts and check to spec. non hardening gasket sealer should be used at points on the #1 and #4 main bearing caps to prevent leakage. have the plug sealed oil galleys on the block threaded and plugged with threaded plugs- that must flush out to the block at the rear plug so the bellhousing will mount. make certain to not mix up the rocker stand orientation or there will be no oil to the head. really check out the lifter after servicing them to make sure they got a good grind with a crown, and unless you like the sound of race cars when you're on the trail, I recommend a stock grind. I am not going to change back to stock yet-need a break from the project once I get it goin as-is...but I am almost certain I will not keep the rv cam. (maybe
) see how not to rebuild an FJ40 and also how not to build the 2F by JimC in the 40 section for engine related specifics. good luck and keep at it.
so take the head back and have them tap it and plug it with a threaded plug. won't hurt anything and won't have to dis-assemble head to do it, but do if before you go any further and forget about it. as far as the engine goes, I understand there is a piston shortage at the moment for some of the vintage motors, not sure if it affects yours, but you may not have a whole lot of oversize choices. be aware that the engine builder MUST use the proper expansion plug behind the cam NOT A FREEZE plug. the timing cover screws are sequenced so don't screw up where they go or the plate won't set right. the notch in pistons goes to the front, the notch on the head gasket goes to THE REAR, the rods face so that the oil squirter hole on the piston pin yoke is pointing toward the cam. the cam bearings are positioned so that there is oil flow to the head. the oil squirter on the timing plate is not screwed down all the way or oil cannot enter the back side of its bore and there will not be oil to the timing gears. the cam has a press fit gear, key, and snap ring- use them all. DO NOT remove the oil pump mounting block from inside rim of block or it will have to be aligned to prevent breaking distributors. the oil pump may work fine, flip the gears inside it over on their shafts and check to spec. non hardening gasket sealer should be used at points on the #1 and #4 main bearing caps to prevent leakage. have the plug sealed oil galleys on the block threaded and plugged with threaded plugs- that must flush out to the block at the rear plug so the bellhousing will mount. make certain to not mix up the rocker stand orientation or there will be no oil to the head. really check out the lifter after servicing them to make sure they got a good grind with a crown, and unless you like the sound of race cars when you're on the trail, I recommend a stock grind. I am not going to change back to stock yet-need a break from the project once I get it goin as-is...but I am almost certain I will not keep the rv cam. (maybe) see how not to rebuild an FJ40 and also how not to build the 2F by JimC in the 40 section for engine related specifics. good luck and keep at it.
Some good stuff right there. Thanks Lambcrusher!
On the body, if you're going to get into it that deep, I would recommend a rotissiere, for the body. It will really save YOUR body, while trying to get to everything. Not too bad to build, either.
Remember: Have fun with it!
On the body, if you're going to get into it that deep, I would recommend a rotissiere, for the body. It will really save YOUR body, while trying to get to everything. Not too bad to build, either.
Remember: Have fun with it!
Some great replies! Does that answer questions on that pile galley plug?
Scrap mentioned not bottoming out that oil squirter for the timing gear. If the shop does bottom it out, you will never get that front plate to seal. I h8 oil leaks... The 3fe has Allen screws for that front plate, easier than the slotted screw.
Scrap mentioned not bottoming out that oil squirter for the timing gear. If the shop does bottom it out, you will never get that front plate to seal. I h8 oil leaks... The 3fe has Allen screws for that front plate, easier than the slotted screw.
this is good stuff. you can lay the body on its side, but the rostisserie is best. do NOT hang it and work frumunda. Scrapdaddy tends to do things right, so pay him attention. respirators are for grinding/sanding, goggles and face shields are good things. BobM. remember that Bob M. you'll need his help with the patch panels and floorboards. he was working on a pillar patches as well.
- Thread starter
- #26
Lambcrusher, you either are faking it, or you know your stuff. I will shoot a photo of the oil filter side of the head and point to what I think is the pug you are referring to. I think I will pull the engine in about 6 weeks. I am swamped in work, and will be in Guatemala for a week in July, so my time is short for the engine overhaul. I assemble my engines very slowly and double check 3 times. I will print what you said in your dissertation above and save it for a later day. In the meantime, I will get the head oil plug tapped for an Allen head screw....once I get confirmation of where it is! I am going to assess my floor pan, sheet metal situation and discuss with bobm about what I need. This month I need to finish the wiring, and AC plumbing for my c10 and keep the JOB going before I can buckle down with the 55. Once the c-10 heads to the paint shop, I will yank the engine and and start working on the body of the 55. BTW, the 55 was supposed to be a basic tune up and start rolling.....haha.
- Thread starter
- #27
Check these photos,
1.) Is the yellow funnel spout pointing at the oil port that needs to be tapped for a socket head screw?
2.) how do I delete all of the emission hoses on the fuel tank? I really dont want to run with all of those hoses again....
3.) DS lower front pillar (A pillar?) a little rotten near the rocker panel. PS looks the same.
1.) Is the yellow funnel spout pointing at the oil port that needs to be tapped for a socket head screw?
2.) how do I delete all of the emission hoses on the fuel tank? I really dont want to run with all of those hoses again....
3.) DS lower front pillar (A pillar?) a little rotten near the rocker panel. PS looks the same.
that is the port to tap and plug.
you really do want to use all those fuel lines-they're actually for vapor recovery, they tie into the EVAP system via a fuel vapor separator and a charcoal can
page BobM on that apillar
you really do want to use all those fuel lines-they're actually for vapor recovery, they tie into the EVAP system via a fuel vapor separator and a charcoal can
page BobM on that apillar
What if the EVAP system was previously/partially eliminated?
Have no clue what they may have done with fuel lines, since I didn't realize there were that many.
How do the body mounts and floor supports look?
google fuel vapor separator...aftermarket version could be a simple aluminum body with 4 ports for vapor entry/condensed fuel return at the bottom of the can and one port at the top with a check valve and a line that takes the vapors to the charcoal canister
Unless you really know what you are doing, do not deviate from the factory design for the evap system. Improperly modifying will result in a nice fuel vapor throughout the interior whenever you drive it...
I believe a 60 series separator is a direct swap. you have 8 lines leaving the tank; 4 for vapor, 2 for fuel supply/return, one fill and one fill vent line. the 4 vapor lines are nothing special except that they are 2 way in that they allow condensed fuel to return via those same lines to the tank. the vapor leaves the tank and enters the condensing chambers of the separator. the 5th line at the top of the separator is for any vapors remaining to get to the charcoal filter or thru the intake for burn and there is a check valve in that line that will hold a certain pressure within the condensing chambers to allow for condensation time and a teeny weeny bit of fuel recovery. that is, if I understand correctly. I have seen an aluminum tube about 3"od with 4 ports on bottom and one port on top and cooling fins around the inside of the can IIRC for condensation. if you look at the drawings at SOR and in the service manuals, you'll get how it's supposed to work. it's nothing that can't be copied with some research and fab skills as I believe the only bit in the system that may have a spec of any kind is the check valve, and I know that can't be too hard to get close.
- Thread starter
- #35
I still have the fuel separator plus a spare, the can up front is still on site. But I know te emissions system cannot be functioning like it should. I will reconnect all of the hoses like they were when I get the gas tank back from the shop cleaning and sealing it. I am not sure how to make it work, but when the time comes, I don't want fuel vapor in the cabin. I will try to make it work. I actually ended up with the spare by accident. I have about $25 in it, if mine is still good, I will part with it. Lambcrusher, u know ur stuff. I will get that oil port drilled and tapped ASAP. I continue to tear down the beast, and it never ceases to surprise me that the list of necessary repairs keeps growing!
It looks like all of my rebate check coming this month is going to bobm for sheet metal. I will place order in the next couple of weeks before I head to Guatemala on a mission trip. When I get back, I hope to be wrapping up my c-10, and by the time bobm delivers, I will be ready to jump on the 55. I already am looking forward to putting this beast back together. I want to drive it, or fight it, whichever better describes it. I don't have a budget, but, it is looking like it will take at least 8 grand in parts, etc, to get the old girl back on the road....and that is before any interior work or exterior paint. Does that sound about right?
It looks like all of my rebate check coming this month is going to bobm for sheet metal. I will place order in the next couple of weeks before I head to Guatemala on a mission trip. When I get back, I hope to be wrapping up my c-10, and by the time bobm delivers, I will be ready to jump on the 55. I already am looking forward to putting this beast back together. I want to drive it, or fight it, whichever better describes it. I don't have a budget, but, it is looking like it will take at least 8 grand in parts, etc, to get the old girl back on the road....and that is before any interior work or exterior paint. Does that sound about right?
I want to say that's steep, but I should know better! yeah, but you'll be with new motor and no or little rust and prolly brakes and steering so you'll be set for the next few years
man that pig found the right guy
stick with it, you'll be glad
Lambcrusher does indeed know his stuff, however I alerted you to the oil galley plug first and then warned you about removing the evap system.
You're welcome...
sorry Pabput some ice on them things
Ha! No worries. I just didn't have time to 'splain things the way you did.
Thought the initial call-out was worth a mention!
Ha! No worries. I just didn't have time to 'splain things the way you did.
Thought the initial call-out was worth a mention!
very much so, I keep forgetting about that one...it is soooo much easier to do with the head off...