GA 55 left in woods for 20 yrs- 10/73 model

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Beno, is my F155 10/1973 model an F.5?

F has the oil filter mounted off the side off the intake (DS)

F155 has the oil filter mounted in front of the distributor. (PS)

F155, F.5, and "F and a half" are all the same and began 9/73.

Based on threads, vehicle assembly date may not accurately reflect F or F.5.

If its close, best to confirm, but I'd bet money you already have.
 
Mfg date 10/1973
Oil filter in front of distributor
F155 on valve cover

I am going with f.5 for my engine.

The original doors didn't have the vent window, but the doors I will use came from a 73 that did. I am thinking that I have a "74" model that was built in 10/73, and I think that is consistent with having a 3 sp tranny, which I have. I guess that clears all that up. Thanks.
 
Here is something to think about.

http://macon.craigslist.org/pts/3860155276.html
I was browsing today and found this rig. It's ruining but all rusted out. I need engine, brake system, clutch parts, etc. why not pick this up for drivetrain parts? I could part out the rest of the 40 parts. Between this and the parts truck that I have coming I would have many of the parts to get the pig going sooner. In the meantime, I could take a more leisure route on building my F155. Just saying...
 
Mfg date 10/1973
Oil filter in front of distributor
F155 on valve cover

I am going with f.5 for my engine.

The original doors didn't have the vent window, but the doors I will use came from a 73 that did. I am thinking that I have a "74" model that was built in 10/73, and I think that is consistent with having a 3 sp tranny, which I have. I guess that clears all that up. Thanks.

Good call. I assume you received my abysmal parts list?
 
F has the oil filter mounted off the side off the intake (DS)

F155 has the oil filter mounted in front of the distributor. (PS)

F155, F.5, and "F and a half" are all the same and began 9/73.

Based on threads, vehicle assembly date may not accurately reflect F or F.5.

If its close, best to confirm, but I'd bet money you already have.

Delancy is getting good!!

;)

Better than me actually.... I spend most of my time consulting with a few certain experts about the old metal.

Probably an indication that I need one of each series.
 
Delancy is getting good

at taking notes and memorizing.

Short of my inclusion of a few front axle seals, how'd you like my parts list for the 80 TC?

Copy and paste. Hahahaha.

Better than me actually.... I spend most of my time consulting with a few certain experts about the old metal.

Benefit of this forum. It's easy to spot the experts and easy to read their threads and input.


Probably an indication that I need one of each series.

Agreed.

That's my plan!!
 
Here is something to think about.

http://macon.craigslist.org/pts/3860155276.html
I was browsing today and found this rig. It's ruining but all rusted out. I need engine, brake system, clutch parts, etc. why not pick this up for drivetrain parts? I could part out the rest of the 40 parts. Between this and the parts truck that I have coming I would have many of the parts to get the pig going sooner. In the meantime, I could take a more leisure route on building my F155. Just saying...

move that glass filter down before the fuel pump. they're great for anything that might be in the tank. easy to see, easy to clean and extra filters are available at any flaps.
 
move that glass filter down before the fuel pump. they're great for anything that might be in the tank. easy to see, easy to clean and extra filters are available at any flaps.

You like them over the cheap, NAPA 3002 clear plastic filter ($3/ea)?

What is best way to crimp off fuel line when changing these filters? Is a vice grip on the fuel line a good idea?
 
You like them over the cheap, NAPA 3002 clear plastic filter ($3/ea)?

What is best way to crimp off fuel line when changing these filters? Is a vice grip on the fuel line a good idea?

i've always run the glass because you can clean them out and don't always have to replace, plus easier to see through and elements are smaller. yep, i just vice grip and replace. the hose doesn't like the vice grips after 25 or 30 trips, but the hose is cheap to replace too ;)
 
i've always run the glass because you can clean them out and don't always have to replace, plus easier to see through and elements are smaller. yep, i just vice grip and replace. the hose doesn't like the vice grips after 25 or 30 trips, but the hose is cheap to replace too ;)

Thanks, I might switch.
 
Rumor has it you're needing inners and the 71 I picked up actually has more solid inners and outers than the front for local company.

Can take better pics, but this is the most solid inner clip I've seen in the several Pig's I've looked at.



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Bottom support is still intact and the only place of concern is in the bottom of the fender roll at the front.

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How much for the inner fender?

I don't know, sir.

More concerned about perpetuating Piglore.

We can figure that out after you check out your donor.

My donor's inner/outer fenders are (well, were before I dented one) in better shape than any I've seen, so hopefully you have the same luck.....before paying a fortune for others (like I did).
 
http://www.toyodiy.com. Has anyone used this for a parts reference? Supposedly you can cross reference part numbers to other vehicles. Just wondering.

Tomorrow I will take some photos of my parts vehicle. I will disassemble soon and see what I have. It has been hard to get back on the pig since I have been back. The engine is next to come out, and the rear glass and windshield. I have got to order parts from bobm, but am waiting to eval inner fender, etc that I have. I should be getting close soon, though.
 
http://www.toyodiy.com. Has anyone used this for a parts reference? Supposedly you can cross reference part numbers to other vehicles. Just wondering.

I just message Onur. Less chance for error. Ha.

Have been through so many sites trying to find a few had to get items and there are inconsistencies. One site similar listed a superseded part number for a 1F oil pump.

I was excited until I realized it was giving a 2F oil pump part number which, to my knowledge, isn't a possibility.

Onur's your guy on parts, especially since he just finished going through the 72 F and figuring out exactly was and wasn't available. There's more for the F.5, as your aware, but the balance is already done.

If you don't wind up needing a full inner, but PS or DS to patch in, I still have the original one on mine, that fell apart at the lower support, I'm assuming, after a fan came unglued.

It will be mid-August before I have my parts Pig disassembled, but can take pics of whatever you want to inspect before.
 
I took a closer look at the parts truck today. You will recognize it. It came from Nik, all the way from OK. The inner fenders look good on both sides, as does the battery tray and core support for the radiator. On the parts truck, I am going to remove all of the doors, especially the rear tailgate as it is in much better shape than mine, cut the roof off, as the roof trusses are in better shape than mine (I am going to weld in 2 more to mine,) remove the engine, which actually appears to be a 2F, and then roll the body off of the frame. I am going to attach a few photos of the parts truck. The frame and suspension are not nearly as rusty as mine. As long as the 06/1971 frame etc is the same as a 10/1973, then I do not see a problem with putting my body on that frame.....do you guys see that being a problem ?

As far as the 2F engine goes, it has a Holley carb on it, and appears to all be there. It is in a heck of alot better exterior condition than my F155. However, I am committed to the 1F, and I am going to see it through. I guess I will keep the 2F engine and see if I can later find something that needs it.

I have one photo of the PS firewall. There is an aluminum housing that has steel tubing going to it and leaving it. I do not know what it is. I cannot remember if it is connected to the brakes or not. If it is, then it would be connected to the rear brakes. I just dont know what it could do. I know that my 10/73 model did not have it. Any ideas?

Also, I will hav some parts that I will not be using, like the grab handles on the ceiling, and the doors. If any of you want something, I will get some photos, and you can shoot me an offer.

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I now have 3 full sets of doors, two incomplete tailgates, NO tailgate glass, two chassis , two sets of seats, two heat systems, two grills, three carbs, three steering columns, two steering wheels, two engines (well sort of), and an abundance of gauge assemblies, taillights, seat belts, etc.

I am in dire need of a rear glass, front turn signals, and some rubber.....I just cannot stand the idea of blowing $2400 on a rubber kit, when it should be a $6-800 deal. Any ideas?

I know that I will be judicious with the parts that I let go before I get this thing back together. The parts are hard enought to find once, let alone twice. I know that I will not be needing a second fuel tank, the headliner rods, at least one of the steering columns, the rusted up Nik outer fenders, the inner fenders off of my beast (one is mostly shot), and possibly a few other things. I may even part out the 2F once I get clearance that the F155 if rebuildable.
 

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