On my list to buy, along with your windows
Front swaybar quick disconnects revisited and tested
- Thread starter LandCruiserPhil
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- Thread starter
- #262
We like the way you think
We have a large order of our flip up gullwing windows underway for the holiday season. Follow me on my LandCruiserPhil Instagram feed for the special IG pricing.
These are great products from a great guy. I don't have his disconnects (wish i did because my fabbed ones are hack jobs, but work) but i can assure you that being able to disconnect for trails and then connect them back for highway travel is a HUGE plus. I experienced that last year at hole in the rock.
- Thread starter
- #264
Thanks for your ongoing product support.
HITR is a perfect place for disconnects to shine. Check out how they worked at the 2min mark in the HITR video. Not only the only 80 not to lift a tire but it drove it in 2WD
Video by others
You dont need disconnects on ever trail but when you do you are so glad you have them. Like @concretejungle said if you have the skills and time not difficult to make but for many they are just a click away.
NOTE: If a product is listed on our website it is IN STOCK AND READY TO SHIP. No waiting for production or group buys. Im like you when I order something I wanted it today not weeks/months later
JaketheSSnake
SILVER Star
Didn't think to do it connected and disconnected, but I got a 709 on the ramp with 4 adults and 2 little kids riding along 
. Next time I'll get a comparison done. I'm definitely happy with it, easy install and easy to use and it does what it's supposed to!
. Next time I'll get a comparison done. I'm definitely happy with it, easy install and easy to use and it does what it's supposed to!
Any chance you have these in stock currently? Let me know and ill place the order. Thanks!
nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
What? Were they not long enough? I dont get it.
Drove it down the classic washboard Colorado road and it shook the cotter pins out- both of them. The loose sway bar ripped the brake line out on the right. All of this on the way down Yankee Boy Basin with the kids onboard. Drive the whole way down without brake fluid.
- Thread starter
- #270
Yes as lined out in installation instruction be very careful and make sure you cycle your suspension after installation for clearance. Your need to make sure you have proper driveline swaybar clearance. Others have also experienced the same problem when the factory swaybar bracket breaks from being stressed. Using swaybar disconnects will keep the bracket from breaking.
- Thread starter
- #271
Yes in stock
not familiar with the product but if you are going to use a pin to secure the swaybay in place I'd be looking for something along this line.
McMaster-Carr
One side has this pin, the other uses a standard pin and cotter for clearance. Never been a problem for me, I've been running them for about 2 years now. I've noticed that it works better with sway bar blocks up front and yes, it CAN and will hit your front driveshaft at full droop without sway bar blocks, but it took being up on a lift for mine to hit so I think you would need to basically be airborne.
I did need extended brake lines up front with mine though, which nearly ruined me because the shop that did it accidentally put in PS fluid in the brakes when they did. I found out as I was about to start lockhart basin.
Forgot to mention it wiped out my drivers side ABS. So, total cost:
1. White knuckle drive in low gear and an emergency brake from Yankee Boy Basin to Ouray.
2. Brakeline, ABS, and master cylinder taken out.
All in all, not worth it to me to mess with this mod.
1. White knuckle drive in low gear and an emergency brake from Yankee Boy Basin to Ouray.
2. Brakeline, ABS, and master cylinder taken out.
All in all, not worth it to me to mess with this mod.
Looking like these frame brackets probably won't work with Timbren bump stops installed ? ? If I'm seeing it all correctly . . .
1973Guppie
Supporting Vendor
I agree with your conclusion that disconnecting the front sway bar is not worth the minimal added flex. However you have to expect issues will arise when you disconnect factory components. It is not really the fault of the mfg of the product.
Sure, but I think this particular mod needs to be highlighted in red for the uninitiated or folks who do not have prior experience. It is an assumption by many that everyone is aware of the risks here. But some of us have rigs where off roading and doing these kinds of mods comes with a bit of "first time" exposure. In my case, I had two kids onboard when the brakes went out just before the cliff-line on Camp Bird Road, heading down the mountain. I was able to coast the rig down the road in low gear and my emergency brake, but it was a potentially dangerous situation. And no one was coming in the opposite direction. Imagine if it had happened on one of the Moab runs. A seemingly simple, straightforward mod with potential deadly outcomes in the right setting.
My point is to emphasize caution and be specific about it before entrusting your life and your loved ones' lives when doing this mod.
- Thread starter
- #278
Im sorry you experienced a problem but the truth is if you would have cycled your suspension properly as others have mentioned you would not have had a problem. I did reach out to you more than once to help you understand why you had the problem and how to cycle your suspension (see below) properly to avoid any conflict but you were closed minded. Like any product designed for off road use it is an owners/buyer responsibility. Below is a repost of how to properly cycle your suspension to insure proper clearance at the same time you should also check your brake lines, ABS wiring and locker wiring if equipped.
Others not using swaybar discounts have experienced the same issues as iceaxe when the swaybar mounts at the axle have broken under stress when wheeling. Something that Swaybar discounts protect you against. The reason why Wits End sells Heavy duty mounts ► Heavy Duty Extended Length Front Sway Bar Tabs
Personally I recently extended my front shock up travel and found after running Swaybar discounts years I needed more swaybar drop to avoid contact.
Cycling your suspension when with swaybars disconnected.
After I have heard and seen 3 guys have issues I want to address cycling your suspension. I have verified 2 of the 3 issues where from not enough or none at all swaybar spacing done after lifting. Because all lifts can be different this should be done even if you dont have swaybar disconnects. Swaybar spacer do more than ensuring you have clearance with your swaybars disconnected it puts your swaybar geometry closer to where Toyota intended it to be. Most of your complete lift kits come with swaybar spacers
So if you dont you should with or without disconnects.Pictured is the way to find out if you have clearance. First disconnect your swaybars
and jack the vehicle up like pictured. Jacking one side at a time will not yield as much as pictured. My swaybar spacer (pictured) are custom welded extensions where most use blocks, both are fine. As you can see from the pictures my clearance is tight. Some may say too tight but I would never say its too tight So far after 10's of thousand dirt miles I have been golden.Some have said just extend your brackets but it will not work. Back when I was in the design phase (yep contrary to what others have alluded to there was design) I removed the springs and set the 80 on the factory bump stops to make sure there was not conflict not matter on compression. Full extension is your end of the responsibility to ensure your have the needed clearance.
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Phil, with respect, this comment "properly to avoid any conflict but you were closed minded" is inappropriate.
I actually raised the issue with you several times, but you chose to fight me on this (and I was warned by others on MUD about your tendency to fight without listening). As a consumer, I and my kids were put at potential serious risk after doing the mod. And I was left with quite a bill for my trouble.
Either you acknowledge the issue, post the potential risks to your clients in an open and transparent manner, or wait until someone less reasonable than myself comes along and TRULY calls you out on the mat. I think it's fair to say we are all here to support the vendors and to be understanding given the nature of our hobby and inherent risks.
But you need to be transparent, forthright, and up front about the risks involved. I'm not going to fight you further on this Phil. Do the right thing here, for the sake of your clients.
I actually raised the issue with you several times, but you chose to fight me on this (and I was warned by others on MUD about your tendency to fight without listening). As a consumer, I and my kids were put at potential serious risk after doing the mod. And I was left with quite a bill for my trouble.
Either you acknowledge the issue, post the potential risks to your clients in an open and transparent manner, or wait until someone less reasonable than myself comes along and TRULY calls you out on the mat. I think it's fair to say we are all here to support the vendors and to be understanding given the nature of our hobby and inherent risks.
But you need to be transparent, forthright, and up front about the risks involved. I'm not going to fight you further on this Phil. Do the right thing here, for the sake of your clients.
- Thread starter
- #280
Assume the responsibility and Cycle your suspension properly (as shown above) and it will be clear where your issue is.
Caution and need to cycle your suspension it is outline in red in the installations instructions as it was included when you made your purchase.
