Front swaybar quick disconnects revisited and tested
- Thread starter LandCruiserPhil
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Up and down YES
Front to rear NO
May have something to do with living in the northeast!?
- Thread starter
- #223
Sounds like the upper linked joints are frozen/stuck keeping you from lining up. At this point I would apply some force to see if you can free them up if not its time to replace.
- Thread starter
- #224
Great addition to maximize rear travel on our 80's. I will see if I can find you a set.
Our goal this year is to step it up and get everything we offer on the site.
Interested as well. Havent seen any kind of write up on these, care to share?Great addition to maximize rear travel on our 80's. I will see if I can find you a set.
Our goal this year is to step it up and get everything we offer on the site.
10-4 Thxu
murf
Lifer
in watching the install video on page two , it shows how the sway bar links flexes/pivots for a better idea on what should be happening. Maybe take the links apart and lube them if the bushings are still good?
- Thread starter
- #229
Are these the LCP rear shock mount drop kits you are referring to? If so they are yet another LCP secret menu item, PM me.
Did I ever address your pin needs? PM if not
- Thread starter
- #231
PM sent
Ok, installed mine. Piece of cake except for fitting the cotter pin on the passenger side. The spring was a bit tricky figuring out the orientation given tight quarters. Haven't tried the system yet- but I will day after next in Moab...!
Phil, I returned from Cruise Moab, having done Kokopelli with the swaybar disconnect system installed. Left the cotter pins in the brackets at the axle and didn't pin the sway bar up on the frame. Broke both pins, damaged the driver's side sway bar bracket (bent it to hell), and tripped off the ABS light. Almost severed a brake line.
Bought new cotter pins, this time pinned the sway bar up against the frame. Did the first part of Moab Rim, then on to the Pickle. One cotter pin missing on the passenger side. Again threatened loose sway bar with brake lines at risk.
I think my recommendation would be to advise anyone using this system to use the original screw, washer, and locking washer to secure the sway bar at the axle and frame. To do otherwise is dangerous.
Side note- I did drive the rig at high speed without the sway bar connected. My rig is capable of stable cruising at 90 MPH, so it was a good test. While some drive their rigs without the sway bar connected, I found it to be unstable at high speeds and highly unadvisable to leave it disconnected if you are planning to drive home on the highway. This is in full agreement with Christo's advise on this matter.
Bought new cotter pins, this time pinned the sway bar up against the frame. Did the first part of Moab Rim, then on to the Pickle. One cotter pin missing on the passenger side. Again threatened loose sway bar with brake lines at risk.
I think my recommendation would be to advise anyone using this system to use the original screw, washer, and locking washer to secure the sway bar at the axle and frame. To do otherwise is dangerous.
Side note- I did drive the rig at high speed without the sway bar connected. My rig is capable of stable cruising at 90 MPH, so it was a good test. While some drive their rigs without the sway bar connected, I found it to be unstable at high speeds and highly unadvisable to leave it disconnected if you are planning to drive home on the highway. This is in full agreement with Christo's advise on this matter.
- Thread starter
- #234
Did you cycle your suspension after installation? Check your driveline for marks showing contact with your front driveline. Driveline contact is the only thing I can think of that could cause the issue.
Sent from the McDonald's parking lot, Moab
- Thread starter
- #236
Cycling will tell you were and if you have clearance problems. The pins are over designed for holding the swaybar in place when disconnected. I have ran the pins since 2004 and never had a pin failure connected or disconnected. What I can tell you for sure you can remove the front springs and there is no clearance issue with any component with the LC setting on the bump stops leaving only the driveline and swaybar clearance possible causing an issue on full droop other than foreign objects. I think you will find you do not have enough spacing of your swaybar given your lift and setup. Try jacking the front end of the LC up from the center and check your clearance with the swaybar disconnected.
Kudos for running Moab rim, a tough trail where all a LC articulation is needed.
There were no clearance problems Phil. What I would recommend to anyone purchasing this product is to be very careful using the cotter pins and be aware there are now a couple of folks who have experienced this problem- which may have dangerous consequences once out on pavement.
- Thread starter
- #238
Sorry Iceaxe but this makes no sense, a pin breaking with no stress just holding up the swaybar, not without added stress from elsewhere. Yes there has been a couple guys with lost pins but breakage with proper set up, Im not aware. Again myself and many other have 100 of thousands miles without issue, why you?
I'm trying to help you correct your isolated issue but it is not possible without your help. Pictures of your set up and noted issues would be helpful. What is your current swaybar spacing? Slee recommends 1.5" for the front with L shocks IIRC.
Disconnects are nothing new Front Swaybar Disconnect for a 80
Phil,
I'm interested in this product. How do I go about making a purchase?
I'm interested in this product. How do I go about making a purchase?
- Thread starter
- #240
PM sent
