rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Yeah, I questioned my thoughts right after I posted that, I need to go dig into the FSM in a bit. This gas been covered thoroughly in the pages of mud.
Front Axle Rebuild (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 70 FJ40
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- axle front front axle rebuild
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pb4ugo
SILVER Star
the notion that decreasing shims = increase load was not intuitive to me and to this day I dont see the relationship between shims and pre-load but have accepted the cause/effect.....pulled that knuckle half a dozen times and tried increase/decrease etc trying to make sense of it.
- Thread starter
- #65
I understand how removing shims can increase pre-load. The more shims that are in there the less pressure the top and bottom plate can put on the bearings. Making it easier to move the knuckle back and forth Correct?
I am just a little concerned it will make my axle off-center and create premature wear on my inner axle seal. I think I'm going to remove the shims, measure them with a caliper and try to decrease the shim thickness the same amount on top as I do on bottom.
I am just a little concerned it will make my axle off-center and create premature wear on my inner axle seal. I think I'm going to remove the shims, measure them with a caliper and try to decrease the shim thickness the same amount on top as I do on bottom.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
They only way to know for sure if the knuckle is centered is to use the tool. Right now you're relying on those who have been in there b4, which is not uncommon. It may have been the factory. Keep in mind the adjustments are small. Are you using stk inner seals or Marlin double lip seals.
Per my last post, The FSM says to remove from the top and bottom equally. I would want to get a proper preload, over time new bearings will wear in and loosen up.
- Thread starter
- #67
Thanks. Ya. I'm hoping to get in the proper range of pre-load at least.
Pretty sure it was the factory bearings. There is still DOT inspection rings on the brake lines that read 2/77.
I'm using whatever seals and bearings Cruiser Outfitters sent in the kit.
Pretty sure it was the factory bearings. There is still DOT inspection rings on the brake lines that read 2/77.
I'm using whatever seals and bearings Cruiser Outfitters sent in the kit.
- Thread starter
- #68
Headed back out to the garage now.
Birf back in the knuckle...or so it seems. It looks into position, but it travels...all the way...should the diff stop it from rotating?
- Thread starter
- #70
OK. I removed .25 mm worth of shim from both top and bottom. Re-torqued, and checked pre-load again. Got between 10 and 11lbs now, so I'm within spec. Pretty comfortable with that. On to the other side this evening.
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- Thread starter
- #71
I'm replacing all of my tie rod ends, rebounding the center arm and replacing my steering box with a rebuilt one. Could someone direct me to a good thread on how to get everything back installed at least close to alignment?
Green Bean
GOLD Star
I believe that the FSM has good baseline lengths.
RevISK
SILVER Star
Would be a good idea to measure your tre’s post to post while still on the tie rods. That’ll get you close.
Don’t rely on counting threads when removing as different manufacturers are different lengths.
Make yourself a set of toe in jigs out of aluminum angle. That should get you the rest of the way.
John McVicker
SILVER Star
I will be the 1st to admit that I do not really know the answer to this conundrum…but I do remember reading on MUD that ‘someone’ on this forum was extremely confident that mixing the grease was NOT a problem.
And sorry to say but I don’t remember who this ‘someone’ was…but whoever it was, was very well respected and was usually right on when it came to mechanics etc. Might have been Tools R Us…or similar. Someone that knew what he was talking about.
- Thread starter
- #75
I'm also going to need a new steering damper. I'm pretty sure the one I took off is 47 years old. I'd like as close to oem look and mount as possible. Is the Monroe SC2916 a good option. Don't really want to fork out $200 plus for an oem if there is something decent. Also looks like JT Outfitters has one. Anybody try this one or have thoughts on it? Thanks
- Thread starter
- #76
I will be the 1st to admit that I do not really know the answer to this conundrum…but I do remember reading on MUD that ‘someone’ on this forum was extremely confident that mixing the grease was NOT a problem.
And sorry to say but I don’t remember who this ‘someone’ was…but whoever it was, was very well respected and was usually right on when it came to mechanics etc. Might have been Tools R Us…or similar. Someone that knew what he was talking about.
I went ahead and cleaned out the molly grease and repacked with the high temp grease. Just to be safe.
RevISK
SILVER Star
From what I have gleaned, the damper isn’t super important as long as everything else is in check.I'm also going to need a new steering damper. I'm pretty sure the one I took off is 47 years old. I'd like as close to oem look and mount as possible. Is the Monroe SC2916 a good option. Don't really want to fork out $200 plus for an oem if there is something decent. Also looks like JT Outfitters has one. Anybody try this one or have thoughts on it? Thanks
I don’t remember where I got my replacement but it’s nothing special. Proper caster, toe in and fresh everything else has made the real difference..
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
I ran my 40 for about 4 or 5 years without the steering damper, honestly I don't think it made $100 difference when I finally installed one.
Just my experience.
I just did this. you need to clamp something onto front brake rotors or drums both sides, then adjust center link until straight or slightly toed-in. I used aluminum angle as its generally pretty true.
EDIT: A couple pics...
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My recollection is that the knuckle gets #2 moly grease and the wheel bearing gets high temp disk brake grease
